The T5 Q&a Thread

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Here you go. This is my first T5 fixture and its used. Im having a hard time getting 2 of the 12 bulbs to fire also. Whats the chances this is a bulb issue as opposed to a fixture issue. Thanks again for all your help.

Looks like the twist lock endcaps. Get another one, I'd by a few just in case. Just remove the endcap. It should have 2 wires in the bottom. Stick a needle into the hole each wire is in which will pry the jaws apart enough to allow you to pull them out. Then just stab them back into the new cap.

As far a the other two not coming on right likely isn't a lamp. Either they work or they don't. Could be a bent or burnt pin on one of them. If you don't get a good connection between the lamp and ballast the ballast will shut down which is why 2 lamps shut down.
 
Hey GRIM REEFER,

i have a question and not sure if you have the answer (how could that be right?)... How much PAR do the ATI Purple + have? i ask because i just finished puting my lights in my tank i have one in the mix.

tank is 36x20x20. i have 6 bulbs, im using IceCap 660 to power the middle 4 and then a tek kit to power the first and last bulbs to do a sunset look. i have these bulbs:

Front
ATI Purple +
ATI Blue +
ATI Aqua Blue 12k
UVL 75/25 14k
ATI Blue +
UVL Super Actinic 420nm
Back

i left the purple and the actinic on the outside to be used for the sunset(tek retro kit) because i thought the other bulbs would be better powered by the icecap (middle 4)for more PAR production. i know purple bulbs should be in the middle but i cant put it there without lossing par from the other bulbs.

that being said i am happy with the color so far (no coral in tank yet) it has such a icy blue glow to it but i can tell reds and yellow will pop too because my live rock have some crushed oyster shells in them and the shells are glowing a peach color right now. the wires in the canopy are all kinds of colors and they all are glowing like a black light on a 16 year olds sheets. (eww)

whats your take on my setup and the ATI purple +

Right side is front of tank
SSPX0348.jpg

IMG_2774.jpg

Purple plus has way more PAR than the 75/25. If you like the look you have now I don't know if it's worth changing the positions.
 
Say Grim you said Make the changes listed above after >>> Could you please tell me what changes.

Go back to my first reply and look at the quote from your first post where you have the list of lamps. CHange the current lamps to the new ones I listed after >>> on the list

2 ATI1003 39W 12000K Aquablue Special T5 HO Fluorescent ATI
6 ATI1011 39W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent ATI
2 UVL0003 39W 10000K AquaSun T5 HO Fluorescent UV Lighting>>> ATI Purple Plus
2 UVL0019 39W Super Actinic T5 HO Fluorescent UV Lighting >>> ATI Blue Plus
2 ATI1043 39W Pro Color T5 HO Fluorescent ATI>>> ATI Purple Plus
 
Looks like the twist lock endcaps. Get another one, I'd by a few just in case. Just remove the endcap. It should have 2 wires in the bottom. Stick a needle into the hole each wire is in which will pry the jaws apart enough to allow you to pull them out. Then just stab them back into the new cap.

As far a the other two not coming on right likely isn't a lamp. Either they work or they don't. Could be a bent or burnt pin on one of them. If you don't get a good connection between the lamp and ballast the ballast will shut down which is why 2 lamps shut down.

Are these end caps pretty standard or something I have to get for my specific application. If standard can you recommend a place to purchase them.
 
Are these end caps pretty standard or something I have to get for my specific application. If standard can you recommend a place to purchase them.

They look like the standard twist locks Reefgeek.com sells. If I had one laying around I'd match it up to the Sfigoloi fixture I have buried in the garage but I am pretty sure they are the same thing.
 
Hi Grim,

I think I have a question that hasn't been asked before. I want a mixed tank with SPS, LPS, Softies and Clams. The tank may be 27" tall (if not 24"). My plan is to buy a Aquatinics Solar Flare fixture but without the included IceCap ballasts (normally stocked with a 430 and a 660) or the LED moonlights. Then I want to modify the middle LED rail with a DIY Cree LED kit, I'm thinking 12 LEDs down the middle strip. I'm thinking if I do this right I am going to get excellent par, color and shimmer along with moonlights if I wire the LEDs into 2 separate drivers.

First of all what T5 ballasts do you recommend I install?
If IceCaps which in which position?
What ratio of Cree LEDs to you recommend? 6 XPG and 6 XPE Royal Blue?
What focal lens for the LEDs if any?
The Solar Flare has 2 fans on one end. Do you think this would be enough to cool the LEDs if I installed a heatsink strip and an airflow channel that partitioned off the LEDs from the T5 section?

Now that I have this extra LED light color what T5 bulb combo do you recommend? My goal is a look that really brings out the color in the fish as well as the corals.

Thanks so much.
 
HI there Grim, seeing as you have extensive knowledge of T5's and now LED's as well: here is something I need advice with:

I am planning a new tank;

30in L x 20in W x 18in H

I have the ATI 6x24watt Sunpower. I bought it for less than half price...it was a steal; brand new, but ATI had wired the fans wrong and hence fans wouldnt work, so it was sold at less than price. Was fixed in less than 20 minutes after I had a play around with it!
laugh.gif


Anyway, I have all the bits (LED's and Meanwell power supply etc), and have the know how to execute this in terms of fitting and ensuring adequate cooling etc.

Here lies the issue:

The ATI Sunpower has one cord going into the light unit. This cord is 7 cored and consists of the following:

1x earth wire - (1 wire)
1x connection to the ballast that lights up tubes 2+5 (2 wires)
1x connection to the ballasts that lights up tubes 1,3,4,6 (2 wires)
1 x connection for the cooling fans (2 wires)

I dont want to mess around with having extra wires going into the unit in order to use 2 Meanwell LPC 35-700 drivers. Also, having 24 LED's in there will mean cooling is going to be tougher to achieve...

So to finally get to the point, if I replaced the two 24watt T5 tubes with 12 Cree Royal Blue LED's running at 700mA would that be a comparable replacement? Each Meanwell will only drive a maximum of 12 Cree RB LED's. So I can only fit 12 LED's if I want to maitain the clean supply into the light unit.

I plant to either use the LED's without optics and use a suitably designed reflector to reflect all the light down.

OR use 80 degree optics.

The reason for this idea is:

1. I will have shimmer when the tank is in LED mode only, and I may have some slight shimmer when both LED and T5's are lit.

2. I will only need to replace 4 tube every 10 months, instead of 6.

3. T5 tubes cost a bit in the UK, so as I have the bits already (may need a few new LED's) I am making a saving right away. It will be a saving of £38 every 10 months which is $55 US.

4. I love the flourescence made by Royal Blue LED's.

5. It is proven that LED's grow SPS corals. It is proven too, that T5's grow and COLOUR SPS corals quite well. This ought to be a very good combination.

6. I will have the full spectral quality with the use of 2 x T5 ATI Blue+, 1x T5 Fiji Purple and 1x T5 AquaBlue Special, so there shouldnt be a lack of spectral quality.

7. PAR with 4x T5's and 12 Cree Royal Blue LED's ought to be very good for a tank that is only 18inches deep (will be more like 16inches once filled in etc).

So will 12 LED's at a total of about 25watts (3watts at 700mA x 12 LED's) be an adequate replacement for 2 T5 tubes at 48watts?

Your thoughts and experiance please!
smile.gif


Here is the bottom of the Sunpower and where I will place the LED's:
DSC_5649.jpg


Many thanks.
 
Hi Grim,

I plan to switch to T5 ATI power module 10 bulbs. I need advice how to set up to the 20K look for my tank. I plan to get two Blue LED Strips to attach in the center to make a little bit shimmer and night light.

Many thanks.
 
I finally suplimented my T5 build with 24 royal blue LED's - I'm sold. There is so much more color pop that I'm considering doing away with my VHO super actincis and andding 2 more T5's maybe some purple. Need the experts advice on this one.

here is the current set up - the tank is viewable from both sides

12 Royal blue LED's
VHO Super actinic
T5 Actinic White
T5 454
moon lights
T5 454
T5 Actinic White
VHO Super actinic
12 Royal blue LED's

file.php
 
Is there any LED set up that could add some shimmer to a T5 set up?

On my 240g tank Im gonna run 2x ATI Sunpower 6x54 and was wondering if some par38 LED bulbs could add some shimmer to the tank with 12 T5 Bulbs.
 
I finally suplimented my T5 build with 24 royal blue LED's - I'm sold. There is so much more color pop that I'm considering doing away with my VHO super actincis and andding 2 more T5's maybe some purple. Need the experts advice on this one.

here is the current set up - the tank is viewable from both sides

12 Royal blue LED's
VHO Super actinic
T5 Actinic White
T5 454
moon lights
T5 454
T5 Actinic White
VHO Super actinic
12 Royal blue LED's

file.php


Nice hood, did you get any shimmer when you added the LED bulbs?
 
Nice hood, did you get any shimmer when you added the LED bulbs?

Thanks - and yes I do get the shimmer effect. I'd like a little more but it's probably more a surface agitation issue then light

The nice thing is the shimmer is there, it's subtle and gives the tank a more natural reef look.
 
Last edited:
Thanks - and yes I do get the shimmer effect. I'd like a little more but it's probably more a surface agitation issue then light

The nice thing is the shimmer is there, it's subtle and gives the thank a more natural reef look.

Thats Great news... where did you get those LEDs and what optics where you using?

THX again
 
Thats Great news... where did you get those LEDs and what optics where you using?

THX again

I got the LED's, optics and meanwell driver from http://www.reefledlights.com/
they had the best package price and were very helpful. I also bought heatsinks from a ebay supplier, and the aluminum angle and misc supplies from Home Depot

the optics are 60 degree, as I only needed to light up a narrow area of the tank. You may be able to notice I tilted the aluminim angle with the LED's inward about 15 degrees, as they are mounted right at the edge of the tank and I wanted the light to hit the sides of my rock wall

here is a side detail of how they are mounted. One difference from this detail is the optics did not penetrate the angle. With out a dimention on the optics, I assumed they were larger and may need to be drilled accordingly, as it is they sit flush with the inside.

file.php


there are more details on my 110 buld log here
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1766400&page=6
 
Last edited:
Hi Grim,

I think I have a question that hasn't been asked before. I want a mixed tank with SPS, LPS, Softies and Clams. The tank may be 27" tall (if not 24"). My plan is to buy a Aquatinics Solar Flare fixture but without the included IceCap ballasts (normally stocked with a 430 and a 660) or the LED moonlights. Then I want to modify the middle LED rail with a DIY Cree LED kit, I'm thinking 12 LEDs down the middle strip. I'm thinking if I do this right I am going to get excellent par, color and shimmer along with moonlights if I wire the LEDs into 2 separate drivers.

First of all what T5 ballasts do you recommend I install?
If IceCaps which in which position?
What ratio of Cree LEDs to you recommend? 6 XPG and 6 XPE Royal Blue?
What focal lens for the LEDs if any?
The Solar Flare has 2 fans on one end. Do you think this would be enough to cool the LEDs if I installed a heatsink strip and an airflow channel that partitioned off the LEDs from the T5 section?

Now that I have this extra LED light color what T5 bulb combo do you recommend? My goal is a look that really brings out the color in the fish as well as the corals.

Thanks so much.

Hmmm. Interesting idea. Too Bad I didn't think of it.

Make sure you use a good heatsink for the LED's. I would use 2 rows of 12 cool white XPG LED's, NO OPTICS. Make sure the LED's aren't much higher than the T5 Reflectors on either side of the LED channels so the light from the LED's will spread front to back. I would space each Led 3" but offset them so you end up with a zig zag pattern with the two rows. Then I would use 3 ATI Blue Plus and 1 Purple Plus for T5's ran on standard T5 ballasts.
 
HI there Grim, seeing as you have extensive knowledge of T5's and now LED's as well: here is something I need advice with:

I am planning a new tank;

30in L x 20in W x 18in H

I have the ATI 6x24watt Sunpower. I bought it for less than half price...it was a steal; brand new, but ATI had wired the fans wrong and hence fans wouldnt work, so it was sold at less than price. Was fixed in less than 20 minutes after I had a play around with it!
laugh.gif


Anyway, I have all the bits (LED's and Meanwell power supply etc), and have the know how to execute this in terms of fitting and ensuring adequate cooling etc.

Here lies the issue:

The ATI Sunpower has one cord going into the light unit. This cord is 7 cored and consists of the following:

1x earth wire - (1 wire)
1x connection to the ballast that lights up tubes 2+5 (2 wires)
1x connection to the ballasts that lights up tubes 1,3,4,6 (2 wires)
1 x connection for the cooling fans (2 wires)

I dont want to mess around with having extra wires going into the unit in order to use 2 Meanwell LPC 35-700 drivers. Also, having 24 LED's in there will mean cooling is going to be tougher to achieve...

So to finally get to the point, if I replaced the two 24watt T5 tubes with 12 Cree Royal Blue LED's running at 700mA would that be a comparable replacement? Each Meanwell will only drive a maximum of 12 Cree RB LED's. So I can only fit 12 LED's if I want to maitain the clean supply into the light unit.

I plant to either use the LED's without optics and use a suitably designed reflector to reflect all the light down.

OR use 80 degree optics.

The reason for this idea is:

1. I will have shimmer when the tank is in LED mode only, and I may have some slight shimmer when both LED and T5's are lit.

2. I will only need to replace 4 tube every 10 months, instead of 6.

3. T5 tubes cost a bit in the UK, so as I have the bits already (may need a few new LED's) I am making a saving right away. It will be a saving of £38 every 10 months which is $55 US.

4. I love the flourescence made by Royal Blue LED's.

5. It is proven that LED's grow SPS corals. It is proven too, that T5's grow and COLOUR SPS corals quite well. This ought to be a very good combination.

6. I will have the full spectral quality with the use of 2 x T5 ATI Blue+, 1x T5 Fiji Purple and 1x T5 AquaBlue Special, so there shouldnt be a lack of spectral quality.

7. PAR with 4x T5's and 12 Cree Royal Blue LED's ought to be very good for a tank that is only 18inches deep (will be more like 16inches once filled in etc).

So will 12 LED's at a total of about 25watts (3watts at 700mA x 12 LED's) be an adequate replacement for 2 T5 tubes at 48watts?

Your thoughts and experiance please!
smile.gif


Here is the bottom of the Sunpower and where I will place the LED's:
DSC_5649.jpg


Many thanks.

Not sure I'd use optics with that spacing. It would concentrate the light from the LED's right in the center and might even create hot spots along the length of the led strips unless you stagger them which you should do anyway.

LED+++

+++LED

LED+++

+++LED

So you end up with 1 1/2 inch spacing

instead of

LED LED

LED LED

which is 3" assuming you space them out to 18" total length.
 
I got the LED's, optics and meanwell driver from http://www.reefledlights.com/
they had the best package price and were very helpful. I also bought heatsinks from a ebay supplier, and the aluminum angle and misc supplies from Home Depot

the optics are 60 degree, as I only needed to light up a narrow area of the tank. You may be able to notice I tilted the aluminim angle with the LED's inward about 15 degrees, as they are mounted right at the edge of the tank and I wanted the light to hit the sides of my rock wall

here is a side detail of how they are mounted. One difference from this detail is the optics did not penetrate the angle. With out a dimention on the optics, I assumed they were larger and may need to be drilled accordingly, as it is they sit flush with the inside.

file.php


there are more details on my 110 buld log here
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1766400&page=6

Sweet assembly.
 
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