Funky_Fish14
New member
Sorry buddy, dont see a post at that time?
The T5 Q&a Thread
- Thread starter JohnL
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jeremychase
New member
Funk; I bet our local timezones differ.. I'm just going to repost..
Grim, Thanks so much.. I've read most of this thread(all three branches), and I still have a question.
I have a 175w MH XM 10,000k over a 40 gallon tank (36"x18"x16") (16" deep) as the only light over my tank. This is *not* blue enough, and the alternative 14,000k 175W bulbs run like crap on my magnetic ballast, so I am looking at supplimentation options.
I'm seriously considering building a new hood to house the MH light in addition to two T5 lamps; Probably via a Tek Retrofit kit.
For one thing, do you think this is a good idea?
Secondly, would two 39w lights put out enough blue to make things fluoresce?
For bulbs I'm thinking the Blueplus
Thanks a million
-Jeremy
divemasterjim
New member
Hey Grim I have a question about type of bulbs.
I have a 60 gallon tank and due to the shape of the hood and tank I have two 36 inch in the front and two 48 inch bulbs in the back.
My question is what do you think the best type of bulbs and combination from front to back will be for keeping pretty much any type of coral, I only have a few corals as I have just started adding corlas.
Do you think I can only keep certian corals with only 4 bulbs?
I have a 60 gallon tank and due to the shape of the hood and tank I have two 36 inch in the front and two 48 inch bulbs in the back.
My question is what do you think the best type of bulbs and combination from front to back will be for keeping pretty much any type of coral, I only have a few corals as I have just started adding corlas.
Do you think I can only keep certian corals with only 4 bulbs?
divemasterjim
New member
Bumped to page 3 without an answer?
Help me grim
Help me grim
jeremychase
New member
Interesting.. So could you go into detail about your next setup? I still have no frame of reference.. would two T5 bulbs be good supplimentation for a single 175w MH?
-Jer
CeeGee
New member
I would think so. I would be more inclined to go with 250 watt halides though. T5's are bright. especially on nice reflectors. A nice MH and a couple of T5 super actinics might be a good combo. That is what I am going to do when money isn't so much of an issue as it is right now.
jeremychase
New member
In retrospect I would have gone for the 250; not for brightness but because there are so many more bulb options....
divemasterjim
New member
Any of you can feel free to help me out with my question to Grim
Justin74
New member
Certainly. You'll be able to keep a wide variety of leathers,shrooms,zoos and lps under that light
If you would like a warmer white I suggest:
blu+
aquablue ATI or 15k Geismann
aquasun
blu+ or URI superactinic
a cooler white:
blu+
aquablue ATI or 15k Geismann
aquablue ATI or 15k Geismann
blu+ or URI superactinic
-Justin
Peter Eichler
New member
Hey Guys, I'm in need of help badly. I'm jumping back into the hobby after some time off and my head is spining trying to decide on lighting.
I was all set yo get 2 x 250 HQI lights, possibly the Aqua Medic fixture with 2 x 250 hqi and 2 x 39 T5. But now I'm really getting intrigued by the T5 lighting.
I'm now considering the Tek 6x39 or possibly fitting their ready fits into my existing hoob. Though the ready fits would be more expensive so that wouldn't make much sense. Any other options that could save me some money or get me a better setup for around the same price? Now for my other questions, keep in mind this is for a 36x18x24h tank...
1.) The tank will be SPS dominante with a lot of zoanthids as well. Will growth be as good or close with the proper combo of 6x39 as it would with the 2x250 HQI with 10k bulbs?
2.) What is will be difference in cost (ballpark) to run the MH and T5s?
3.) What's a good 6 bulb combo from Reefgeek or Aquacave. Would prefer Aquacave and they carry Geismann and AquaMedic. I'd prefer whiter with a hint of blue, but ultimately care more about what will make my corals grow the fastest and look the best.
4.) Am I limiting myself with what I can keep by doing this? I know this is similar to #1 but I'm having a hard time wrapping my tiny brain around the fact that T5s can put out so much light when rated at so few watts.
Thanks for any help!
I was all set yo get 2 x 250 HQI lights, possibly the Aqua Medic fixture with 2 x 250 hqi and 2 x 39 T5. But now I'm really getting intrigued by the T5 lighting.
I'm now considering the Tek 6x39 or possibly fitting their ready fits into my existing hoob. Though the ready fits would be more expensive so that wouldn't make much sense. Any other options that could save me some money or get me a better setup for around the same price? Now for my other questions, keep in mind this is for a 36x18x24h tank...
1.) The tank will be SPS dominante with a lot of zoanthids as well. Will growth be as good or close with the proper combo of 6x39 as it would with the 2x250 HQI with 10k bulbs?
2.) What is will be difference in cost (ballpark) to run the MH and T5s?
3.) What's a good 6 bulb combo from Reefgeek or Aquacave. Would prefer Aquacave and they carry Geismann and AquaMedic. I'd prefer whiter with a hint of blue, but ultimately care more about what will make my corals grow the fastest and look the best.
4.) Am I limiting myself with what I can keep by doing this? I know this is similar to #1 but I'm having a hard time wrapping my tiny brain around the fact that T5s can put out so much light when rated at so few watts.
Thanks for any help!
horkn
New member
Hi Peter (fellow brewtowner here)
well, 6x39 of t5ho will grow sps and zoos very well on a tank of those dimensions. I have seen that zoos thrive under t5ho, and sps do great under t5 as well.
cost in running the t5vs the mh will be a little, but the heating effect of the MH will be significantly more than the t5ho will make. replacement of the bulbs it may be a wash with 6 bulbs to buy at ~20 a piece, so 120 dollars for T5, and most 250w MH bulbs are around 50-60 dollars each. but you can run the t5ho bulbs for 18 months if you want, and you do not replace all the t5 bulbs at one shot anyway. most mh bulbs go a year before you should replace them, but many guys replace their t5 tubes at that mark as well, although IMHO, you are wasting money by swapping t5 tubes out at 12 months or less when they can go another 6 months. electrically wise, the t5 will be less money, about half as many watts used with the t5, and also the MH woould assumedly have supplemental lights, only adding to the cost of the MH rig, both up front, and down the road with extra bulbs to buy and extra electricty used- regardless of vho, t5, or CF.
for bulbs, well 2 ati aquablue, 2 blue+, and 2 URI super actinic seems to be the going combo for now, but i would probably either swap an aquablue or uri SA for a 6-6500k daybulb to pop reds, and for more par- esp since you want it not that blue. the ge used to bethe best day bulb, but apparently the new ge isnt the same as the old one, and now the ATI 6k day is the PAR king of t5ho bulbs. thats something to consider with an sps dominant tank.
trust me, t5ho is a totally viable lighting solution for reef tanks. it is quite amazing how bright they are when you use good quality parablic reflectors. speaking of which, you should use the IC reflectors over the teks since they have about 20% more PAR than with the tek reflectors. that would necessitate you getting retrofits with IC reflector upgrades, and i think reefgeek is the only one that does that. i dont think you will need to overdrive the t5ho by using the IC ballasts, you should be fine as long as you use the IC reflectors, with a day bulb in the mix.
apples to apples, when i was deciding for lights for my 35g, i weighed all the options, and chose t5ho over a mh rig for heat and bulb life issues. a few months later, i saw a 37 or a 38g (3 foot tank like my 35g) in a store lit by a 175w SE 10k bulb, and supplemnetal CF, and right off the bat i noticed how dim it was compared to my 117w of t5ho. similar tank size, and everything. it was amazing.
-Tom
well, 6x39 of t5ho will grow sps and zoos very well on a tank of those dimensions. I have seen that zoos thrive under t5ho, and sps do great under t5 as well.
cost in running the t5vs the mh will be a little, but the heating effect of the MH will be significantly more than the t5ho will make. replacement of the bulbs it may be a wash with 6 bulbs to buy at ~20 a piece, so 120 dollars for T5, and most 250w MH bulbs are around 50-60 dollars each. but you can run the t5ho bulbs for 18 months if you want, and you do not replace all the t5 bulbs at one shot anyway. most mh bulbs go a year before you should replace them, but many guys replace their t5 tubes at that mark as well, although IMHO, you are wasting money by swapping t5 tubes out at 12 months or less when they can go another 6 months. electrically wise, the t5 will be less money, about half as many watts used with the t5, and also the MH woould assumedly have supplemental lights, only adding to the cost of the MH rig, both up front, and down the road with extra bulbs to buy and extra electricty used- regardless of vho, t5, or CF.
for bulbs, well 2 ati aquablue, 2 blue+, and 2 URI super actinic seems to be the going combo for now, but i would probably either swap an aquablue or uri SA for a 6-6500k daybulb to pop reds, and for more par- esp since you want it not that blue. the ge used to bethe best day bulb, but apparently the new ge isnt the same as the old one, and now the ATI 6k day is the PAR king of t5ho bulbs. thats something to consider with an sps dominant tank.
trust me, t5ho is a totally viable lighting solution for reef tanks. it is quite amazing how bright they are when you use good quality parablic reflectors. speaking of which, you should use the IC reflectors over the teks since they have about 20% more PAR than with the tek reflectors. that would necessitate you getting retrofits with IC reflector upgrades, and i think reefgeek is the only one that does that. i dont think you will need to overdrive the t5ho by using the IC ballasts, you should be fine as long as you use the IC reflectors, with a day bulb in the mix.
apples to apples, when i was deciding for lights for my 35g, i weighed all the options, and chose t5ho over a mh rig for heat and bulb life issues. a few months later, i saw a 37 or a 38g (3 foot tank like my 35g) in a store lit by a 175w SE 10k bulb, and supplemnetal CF, and right off the bat i noticed how dim it was compared to my 117w of t5ho. similar tank size, and everything. it was amazing.
-Tom
snookface1
New member
I've been following this thread since the beginning. One question that I don't think that has been ask or answered is:
What's the increase in PAR or quality of T-5 lights when using standard ballasts or icecap overdrive. I know the increase in wattage goes from 54w to 80w for a 48" bulb. I see Grim tell a lot of people to use 6 bulb fixture, but I dont see him telling the to overdrive them.
I currently have (3) 54w over my 55 gal with a icecap 660. So I am already doing the overdrive thing. I used the icecap 660 because I didn't feel the 162w vs 240w would be enough for my tank.
What's the increase in PAR or quality of T-5 lights when using standard ballasts or icecap overdrive. I know the increase in wattage goes from 54w to 80w for a 48" bulb. I see Grim tell a lot of people to use 6 bulb fixture, but I dont see him telling the to overdrive them.
I currently have (3) 54w over my 55 gal with a icecap 660. So I am already doing the overdrive thing. I used the icecap 660 because I didn't feel the 162w vs 240w would be enough for my tank.
Peter Eichler
New member
Just ordered my system, thanks for the tip on the IC reflectors Tom.
I got the sunlight 6x39 setup with 3 blue +, 1 aquablue, 1 actinic and one GE 6500. They were out of the ATI sun pro or whatever it was called. I guess if I'm not happy with it I can spend $20 and swap a bulb out depending if I want more or less blue.
Lets hope I don't miss the ripple effects from MH too much.
I got the sunlight 6x39 setup with 3 blue +, 1 aquablue, 1 actinic and one GE 6500. They were out of the ATI sun pro or whatever it was called. I guess if I'm not happy with it I can spend $20 and swap a bulb out depending if I want more or less blue.
Lets hope I don't miss the ripple effects from MH too much.
BreadmanMike
New member
Ok guys/gals.... 48x24x24 with dual 250w Radiums(on pulse starts) in combo with a IC driven 4x54 T5 retro. I would do 2 - Blue+ and 2- SA's.
Is this too much for Clams/Anemone's/LPS? If I ran the T5's on triads would I be better off? I picked that combo, because it's what I have laying around here extra and would only have to buy the bulbs and retro for the T5's.
Is this too much for Clams/Anemone's/LPS? If I ran the T5's on triads would I be better off? I picked that combo, because it's what I have laying around here extra and would only have to buy the bulbs and retro for the T5's.
Last edited:
divemasterjim
New member
Thanks Justin
Peter Eichler
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7864550#post7864550 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Peter Eichler
Just ordered my system, thanks for the tip on the IC reflectors Tom.
I got the sunlight 6x39 setup with 3 blue +, 1 aquablue, 1 actinic and one GE 6500. They were out of the ATI sun pro or whatever it was called. I guess if I'm not happy with it I can spend $20 and swap a bulb out depending if I want more or less blue.
Lets hope I don't miss the ripple effects from MH too much.
Whoops, make that 2 x aquablue, 2x blue +, 1 actinic, and the GE bulb. Did I make good choices? I'm kinda wishing I had gone with the Geismann 6k bulb insead of the GE.
Justin74
New member
My pleasure.
Now that you know you have the light youll want to rethink your flow schemes, unless you got somthing under the engine that Im not seeing
The sweetest light setup in the world wont help a tank thats poorly flowing, and IMO is just as important as lighting. My tank is fairly close in dementions as yours( an inch shy here and there) and Im not sure I'll ever have "enough". But of course it depends on what were all keeping. As of now your flow setup appears to be more oriented towards predominantly an LPS tank. If going the way of leathers and zoos I see you have a return from a sump you could swap out all those powerheads for 1 SEIO 1100 and have great flow and more than likely less watt and heat transference to your tank. SEIO's Tunze's and any laminar flow powerhead will provide great results, happy well fed corals,cleaner tank, etc. Just some more tidbits to think about.Best of luck to you
-Justin
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