The Grim Reefer
Ready for some NOBALL!!!
If you want an open sandbed the 10 lamp unit should be fine. I would just center it slightyly towards the back, maybe so the rear edge is 4 inches or so from the back frame of the tank.
The T5 Q&a Thread
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If you want an open sandbed the 10 lamp unit should be fine. I would just center it slightyly towards the back, maybe so the rear edge is 4 inches or so from the back frame of the tank.
Todd March
Premium Member
That sounds good, snaza, that's how I have my PM hangingâ€"more toward the back. I have about 3" of the sandbed in the very front that doesn't have direct bulb coverage, but the area still gets plenty of spill over from the bulbs and light reflected off the sand. With a wider tank I think you will be fine, and even better off than I am with my ticked off sandbed palys...
I keep my PM about 6" off the top of the water. Any closer and I can see the "banding" from the different bulbs much more (which is more of an issue with 8 and 10 bulb units I think). Any higher and I think the intensity gets cuts too much, and too much light starts to spill into the room... I tested this for a few weeks, and I really found 6" to just ideal for the bulb's spectrum to mix all up and for the best trade off for intensity (I also don't like putting it any closer due to the Vortech making much surface movement that translates to more salt spray on the PM's acrylic shield).
Hello Grim,
I have a 140g (48.5"x24.5"x29) with dual overflows and not sure which route to take. The display would primarily contain soft corals, lps, and an anemone. The substrate will be at least 4", possibly 6" on the right and sloping towards the left at 4". Herein lies the problem other than a full T5 setup being of preference. I would like the majority of the light concentration on the middle to right-hand side and gradually decrease in light as you scan left (simulating deeper water). Since this is only a 4' tank I take it two 24" retrofits would be needed? Since the middle to right-hand side would contain the majority of corals, would a T5 retrofit work considering the bulbs are only 24w? I have a feeling I'd be better off using a metal halide on the middle-right and a T5 setup on the left?...
Thank you for any insight!
I have a 140g (48.5"x24.5"x29) with dual overflows and not sure which route to take. The display would primarily contain soft corals, lps, and an anemone. The substrate will be at least 4", possibly 6" on the right and sloping towards the left at 4". Herein lies the problem other than a full T5 setup being of preference. I would like the majority of the light concentration on the middle to right-hand side and gradually decrease in light as you scan left (simulating deeper water). Since this is only a 4' tank I take it two 24" retrofits would be needed? Since the middle to right-hand side would contain the majority of corals, would a T5 retrofit work considering the bulbs are only 24w? I have a feeling I'd be better off using a metal halide on the middle-right and a T5 setup on the left?...
Thank you for any insight!
Todd March
Premium Member
Well, personally, I would hang it so that you only have about 8" in the front, and I don't thnk it will be dull, though certianly a tad dimmer... A lot will depend on your rockwork. If you leave a gap in the back, between your rock and the glass, and a decent sandbed in the front, I can see it working nicely...
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So I've installed my IC 660's in my tank canopy. I have a Azoo 4-fan blowing directly on the ballasts to actively cool them when they are on. I'm looking for a good option to cool the endcaps. My Canopy is completely closed up so I'll have to blow the air in from behind. Noise is a big issue for me since I have a fairly sensitive sense of hearing and the tank is in the living room.
I was thinking of running a 46.9CFM cpu fan on each side of the canopy blowing on the endcaps. The particular fan i'm looking at is rated for 25db. I wanted to check to see is ~47CFM is enough air flow or should I be looking for something a lot more? Thanks for the help!
Edit: forgot to mention that this is my 6bulb setup, across 24" of width
I was thinking of running a 46.9CFM cpu fan on each side of the canopy blowing on the endcaps. The particular fan i'm looking at is rated for 25db. I wanted to check to see is ~47CFM is enough air flow or should I be looking for something a lot more? Thanks for the help!
Edit: forgot to mention that this is my 6bulb setup, across 24" of width
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mnml
New member
Need advice from the T5 gurus. I'm thinking of switching to T5 from MH. My tank is 23 3/4"length x 14 1/4"width x 14 1/2" height. Mixed reef with SPS about half way up.
Current fixture: 150W 20K Radium MH + 2x24W Actinic
Question: Which ATI Powermodule should I go with.
1. 24" 4x24W
or
2. 24" 6x24W
I was thinking of going 6x24 as the fixture is 13.5" wide, which would provide more coverage. But I'm worried that it'll be too much lights.
Here's a pic of my tank so you can get an idea of my coral placement.
Thanks for your advice!
Current fixture: 150W 20K Radium MH + 2x24W Actinic
Question: Which ATI Powermodule should I go with.
1. 24" 4x24W
or
2. 24" 6x24W
I was thinking of going 6x24 as the fixture is 13.5" wide, which would provide more coverage. But I'm worried that it'll be too much lights.
Here's a pic of my tank so you can get an idea of my coral placement.
Thanks for your advice!
Todd March
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14465298#post14465298 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thin crust
Need advice from the T5 gurus. I'm thinking of switching to T5 from MH. My tank is 23 3/4"length x 14 1/4"width x 14 1/2" height. Mixed reef with SPS about half way up.
Current fixture: 150W 20K Radium MH + 2x24W Actinic
Question: Which ATI Powermodule should I go with.
1. 24" 4x24W
or
2. 24" 6x24W
I was thinking of going 6x24 as the fixture is 13.5" wide, which would provide more coverage. But I'm worried that it'll be too much lights.
Here's a pic of my tank so you can get an idea of my coral placement.
Thanks for your advice!
It really depends on your bulb selection. Realistically, 4 bulbs will be great and all you need on that narrow of a tank. But personally I would go for broke and buy the 6 bulb fixture and run two UVL Super actinics, which don't provide much (if any) photosynthetic available light, but do which make colors POP, but I love actinic light...
Something like:
Blue+
Super Actinic
Aquablue Special (or 6500K)
Blue+
Super Actinic
Blue+
Also, since your tank seems to have a lot of red and pink corals, you could possibly swap out one of the actinics for a Pro Color (or Fiji Purple), which would make those pinks and reds pop. It's not high on PAR, but might still be a lot of light (the Fiji is higher in PAR)...
Without the low PAR actinics, 6 bulbs would really be too much light, I think, and you would be better off with the 4 bulb fixture. This would also be applicable if you are not big on the violet-fluorescing quality of actinic light...
redfishsc
New member
A couple of quick questions about overdriving T5's.
Is overdriving 24" tubes to 39W as simple as buying a 39W retrofit (TEK) and cutting the reflectors down and using 24" bulbs? If so this is more cost effective than buying the Icecap retros.
Second, how long do you all who overdrive them use them? I hear some people say 6 months, other say a year. If you are using good quality UVL and ATI, what do you get?
BTW I realize these will need to be fan cooled.
Is overdriving 24" tubes to 39W as simple as buying a 39W retrofit (TEK) and cutting the reflectors down and using 24" bulbs? If so this is more cost effective than buying the Icecap retros.
Second, how long do you all who overdrive them use them? I hear some people say 6 months, other say a year. If you are using good quality UVL and ATI, what do you get?
BTW I realize these will need to be fan cooled.
uncleof6
Active member
The tube is filled with a gas and a small amount of mercury (in a liquid form) and is sealed. When a suitably high voltage (electric current) is applied between the electrodes at each end of the tube, the gas ionizes resulting in an electric current flowing through the tube (ionization is simply a group of atoms or molecules that have an electric charge). Basically lightening. This also vaporizes the mercury. The current excites the vaporized mercury which returns back to liquid by the emission of ultra-violet (UV) radiation. the UV radiation reaches the tube walls. The phosphor coating absorbs the UV, become excited (actually that is a scientific term) and re-emits it as visible light. It is the type of phosphor or coating that makes the fluorescent light either blue, bright white, soft yellow or pink. If you are seeing the lightening, I would say you got a bad lamp, change it out. Check the ends for signs of arcing (burnt.) Check the endcaps for the same.
HTH
Regards,
Jim
hi grim and all fellow rcers...
ive got a typical 90g that i believe is 30 high, and just purchased a 8x54 t5 retro fixture.
im looking to keep mainly softies and lps with a clam or two, and was wondering if it
will "keep" well under only these t5s.
any color ideas as far as bulbs go?
thanks in advance,
sivel
ive got a typical 90g that i believe is 30 high, and just purchased a 8x54 t5 retro fixture.
im looking to keep mainly softies and lps with a clam or two, and was wondering if it
will "keep" well under only these t5s.
any color ideas as far as bulbs go?
thanks in advance,
sivel
200mfromocean
New member
Hey Grim,
Has looking for 2 bulb 24 watt T5 combo. I am keeping some sps, LPS, and derasa clam.
I was thinking of:
24" (HO, T5) Aquasun 10,000K, 24W -UV Lighting
24W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent-ATI
Thanks
Has looking for 2 bulb 24 watt T5 combo. I am keeping some sps, LPS, and derasa clam.
I was thinking of:
24" (HO, T5) Aquasun 10,000K, 24W -UV Lighting
24W Blue Plus T5 HO Fluorescent-ATI
Thanks
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