THE Tank Build By Aqua Digital

The equipment set up.

As you can see below the whole system is set up minus adding the actual elements which I will do tomorrow.

GHL 4 stage doser connected to the profilux and plumbed in

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All Pipe work going to the tube holder and coming from the balling containers, the containers come with screw tight fastners for the tube so no risk of one flying off.

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Close up of the tube holder, I have been crafty and used spare peri tubing to run through the bubble Magus holder so the pipes are nice and tidy going into the sump. I have also used the more flexible air line as the Calcium line especially can choke up like a vein and is easier to unblock with this pipe.

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And 1 x stand back and admire the goodies shot ;)

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Tomorrow I will discuss GHL programming with screen shots and also how to work out initial dose rates. I have cheated and already done this by 5 days of manual pre dosing and measuring of the element depletion per day, so i know already what my system draws, but I will focus on this important step more tomorrow
 
Ok here we go the rest of the guide ;)

So before we can even start talking about setting up dose rates and anything else we need to program the doser. (if you are reading this on the FM forum, I hope this info helps you also)

For slave dosers with the profiLux

This is where the profiLux shines above all other controllers, as you know GHL make a slave doser that works in unison with the controller, this gives the unique feature that you can dose in controlled ML as well as timed, this is quite unique to ProfiLux and why all in one solutions really are far better.

I am assuming everyone knows how to program the initial state of the doser? Ok here is a basic overview

Plug doser with power applied into S1S4 directly (remove digital power bar)

Go to socket function outlet

Click on program digital power bar/ Doser

Set numbering from the last number of your power bar, for example if you have one power bar set as #7, the software will do the rest, follow onscreen prompts and exit.

Plug digital power bar back into S1S4 and doser data cable into the second western port on the power bar.

Stand Alone dosers

You have it more simple ;) Just decide if you want timed or manual mode, then just sit back and wait for me to write up the balling dosing guide part. The slavers ;) read on -

Now the fun stuff.

I have set my doser to work from S7 to S10 being a 4 pump doser, I am using pumps as follows

S7 = DKH set up on timer 2
S8 = Mg set up on timer 3
S9 = Ca set up on timer 4

So once you have programmed the initial state of your doser stay in socket function outlet and decide what timers you wish to use (ones not already utilsed obviously). Then edit the sockets accordingly i.e socket 7 = timer 2

as shown here

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Repeat the above for all dosers assigning different timers per dosing pump

Once done go to one of the assigned timers and decide how you wish the doser to operate.

My choice has been manual dosing, the reason for this is I like to have control as to when the dosing events take place (Sa doser users select manual dosing for this also). In the screen shot below you will see for Timer 2 which is pump 1 DKH I have selected manual mode and programmed 6 seperate timed events of 10ml over a 24 hour period, this gives me 60ml over 24 hours.

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If you look closely the dosing rate I have edited to 50ml/min, the reason for this is to calibrate the doser to actually dose 10ml per timed cycle. The doser factory settings is 60ml/min so why change? Well its all down to what your dosing, what pipe you use etc etc, so the rate will change.

How to work out 10ml in one dosing cycle?

get yourself a 10ml syringe marked at 10ml and remove the plunger and block the small exit hole.

Set the doser up for one event a couple of minutes ahead of your current time.

place the tube in the upside down syringe and wait for the timed dosing event to start.

Remove the tube and note how much was dosed in this event.

Mine dosed 8ml instead on 10ml so i decreased the flow rate to 50ml/min then repeated above, it now doses 10ml in every event.

I repeated this for each pump.

This completes the equipment set up stage, next step balling salt mixing and setting up initial dosing -
 
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So for a SA doser do we program through a laptop or on the controller itself? Thanks for the info, it sure will come in handy..
 
Hi

You program it through the built in controller key pad and LCD screen, the stand alone does not connect to a pc or lap top, for this you need the ProfiLux controller and GHL slave doser.

The Stand alone also can not connect to the ProfiLux it is (by name) stand alone. Hope that helps ;)
 
Hi

They were custom made by Boboxx (Chris) he also made the stand and the sump and various other components. So well made, I would recommend Chris's work to anyone.
 
Michael I have a question. Some months ago Claude stated that the balling chambers needed to be opaque or at least smoked to protect the trace elements in the balling salts and trace B solutions. So why the clear units from Bubble Magus?
 
simple - This proved not to be a requirement especially with the new Biopolymer salt unless under strong Refugium light.

This was brought up when Claude and I looked into a joint purchasing arrangement with Bubble Magus. Claude still has access to these chambers for himself on OEM to put his own brand name to them.

Guys - We have only 16 chambers left out of the 150 brought over, if you are sitting on the fence I would jump now the next Sea freight shipment comes in around the middle of May ;)
 
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yes, that is true, unless you're running a refugium in your sump!

anyway, glad to hear that opaque acrylic is not necessary as my chambers are on their way!
 
Very true ;)

The biggest concern was the calcium changing colour when the trace elements were added, this proved to happen irrelevant of what colour chamber was used and also proved not to be anything to do with light effect but an accepted effect of adding trace elements to the calcium. Claude has posted this a few times on his forum when people have questioned the colour change. The calcium mix will go slightly brown.

But if you are putting them under refugium light use $10 wrap of car window tint wrapped round each chamber, thats enough tint to do 50 chambers in that roll ;)
 
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Just an update for you, I contacted Claude directly to make sure our facts are 100% correct, he is on his way by car to Romania right now.

Under strong Refugium light it could in time effect trace elements even with the new salt, however as above, window tint and all is good ;)

Quote from Claude just now

Cause chambers are in the cabinet where is no light so it is better to see for the user how much is in the tank
So if under strong light use window tint, so you can pimp up your chambers if you want :celeb1:
As we offer supreme client care, we will be making refugium tinted versions at no extra cost :)
 
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So in a nutshell, keep them out of direct light unless you use window tint.

All good just wondering after soooo many discussions with you on this topic some months ago.

Keep up the good work!
 
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