The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10691293#post10691293 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by toxqc
I just bought a bag of portland type IO, that was the only type available except for the type N. Will the type IO work or should I bring it back?

Type 10 is the Canadian equivalent of Type I/II in the US.It should work fine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10690807#post10690807 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ozadars
Sorry, i wasnt very clear. I mixed the cement with other things with my bare hands and i didnt wear anything while giving it shape too. Now, my hands are peeling.

Ah. I've had no issues mixing with bare hands. Guess it depends on what you put in.

My wife and I made a couple larger rocks last night, probably will be for the 70. No cuts or peeling hands, but they are silky smooth today :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10687553#post10687553 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mmm55645
the pellitized limestone had a high concentration of calcium oxide - is that reef safe?

MMM, I'd leave that stuff alone. I just googled it and found that it is the same type of stuff I found last fall. I'd gotten a small sample to play with - if you look in my gallery, there should still be a picture of the stuff. It is the size of a large BB or a small sweet pea. It dissolves almost immediately in water on preliminary tests, however when I mixed it into the mud, the cement bound around it and it would not release from the cement, so there were brown balls of lime throughout the rock.

HTH
:)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10690807#post10690807 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ozadars
Sorry, i wasnt very clear. I mixed the cement with other things with my bare hands and i didnt wear anything while giving it shape too. Now, my hands are peeling.

So you didn't read the Super Long Post? :D
1. Wear gloves when making rock. If possible, don’t let the cement get on your skin, especially the dry powder. If possible, wear a painter’s mask when measuring and mixing dry cement; this stuff can really burn the inside of your nose.

Last summer I made a large batch outside, and didn't think running around barefoot while doing so would cause any problems - after all, I'm not mixing the mud with my feet...
Anyway, after hosing down the drive and cleaning my tools, I went in, took a shower and everything was fine.
Until the next morning, and it looked like my feet had gotten leprosy. Only took that day, but when I got home and took my socks off, I had smooth shiny feet. Better than a Spa!
:rollface:

The bags, sites, and MSDS's all say to use protective gear, as cement has a pH of 12-13 - that is pretty caustic and can cause burns. Just because some people don't wear gear and don't seem to get burned, doesn't mean anyone should go glove-less. Skin oils can protect you some, those with oily skin are less likely to get burned (and I hear that guys who work with cement will use udder balm regularly through the day), but you know, safety standards are put into place for a reason...
 
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10690669#post10690669 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cayars
I'd say the verdict is in on the sulfur...
...Busted experiment but I think we all knew this was coming. Worth a shot however, since I had the stuff on hand.

All knowledge is worth having. Thanks for trying that out and posting results for us :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10692377#post10692377 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Insane Reefer
So you didn't read the Super Long Post? :D


Last summer I made a large batch outside, and didn't think running around barefoot while doing so would cause any problems - after all, I'm not mixing the mud with my feet...
Anyway, after hosing down the drive and cleaning my tools, I went in, took a shower and everything was fine.
Until the next morning, and it looked like my feet had gotten leprosy. Only took that day, but when I got home and took my socks off, I had smooth shiny feet. Better than a Spa!
:rollface:

The bags, sites, and MSDS's all say to use protective gear, as cement has a pH of 12-13 - that is pretty caustic and can cause burns. Just because some people don't wear gear and don't seem to get burned, doesn't mean anyone should go glove-less. Skin oils can protect you some, those with oily skin are less likely to get burned (and I hear that guys who work with cement will use udder balm regularly through the day), but you know, safety standards are put into place for a reason...

I knew I should but you know, the white powder looks very innocent :rolleye1:

We dont have I,II,III or IV grade Portland cement over here. I asked for white Portland and they gave me something. I hope what they gave me is really white Portland cement and wont beat anything.

I used 3 rocks as the base and covered them with the cement/sand/crushed shell mixture. They dried into one piece, which I plan to use at the back of the tank.

I am doing this at our summer house and have to go back to home in 2 weeks. I will let the rock dry this week and put it into the sea on Sunday. The rock will stay in the sea for a week, then I have to go back to Istanbul.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10692597#post10692597 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ozadars
We dont have I,II,III or IV grade Portland cement over here. I asked for white Portland and they gave me something. I hope what they gave me is really white Portland cement and wont beat anything.
If you asked for cement, and they understood "cement", then chances are pretty good that what they gave you is cement and the rocks will be safe, especially in light of them going into the ocean to kure (should flush out impurities, etc).

I am doing this at our summer house and have to go back to home in 2 weeks. I will let the rock dry this week and put it into the sea on Sunday. The rock will stay in the sea for a week, then I have to go back to Istanbul.

You know, I could use a vacation...
I could keep an eye on your rock. Yeah, that's the ticket...
:bum:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10692107#post10692107 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bigtex
Type 10 is the Canadian equivalent of Type I/II in the US.It should work fine.

Another Canadian question. Anyone know where to get the salt that was mentioned. I've checked a few places including HD and WM and neither of them had it. One of them had a salt that was 98% pure, but since the one mentioned here was 99% i thought I'd ask first and buy later!. Thanks.
 
Pretty much any of the solar salts will work but make sure they don't have additives for rust prevention or any other adatives in it. You'll normally be able to tell easily on the front because they'll "advertise" the "specialness" of the salt.
 
For the canadians asking questions
I used lafarge type 10 normal portland - Rona for $13.00 for 80 pounds, and crushed oyster shells at Rens pet food - Trafalgar and burnhamthorpe roads in oakville - 50 pounds for $12.00
Rona does have a salt that is 99% for 4.99 20 kilo.
I just used the cement and shells without salts and like that way it looks. Will post pics soon
 
After all the reading maybe I missed it can the DIY rock be put directly on the glass of the tank if one wanted to do so.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10708210#post10708210 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Namyar
After all the reading maybe I missed it can the DIY rock be put directly on the glass of the tank if one wanted to do so.
Don't see any reason why you couldn't but it probably will not stick to the glass and will seperate and possibly fall over time.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10708210#post10708210 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Namyar
After all the reading maybe I missed it can the DIY rock be put directly on the glass of the tank if one wanted to do so.
oops double post.
 
Also, does anyone know a good way to extend the cure time of rapid-setting cement without significantly extending the cure time? My wife and I did a decent sized batch the other night, and it started setting up before we wanted it to.

I did make a really big piece that I think will turn out super cool though. Have it wrapped in a plastic bag and wet it every day. Might wait a week or two before I try to get the casting salt off of it.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10710950#post10710950 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jasonh
mr. wilson said he applies cement directly to the glass quite a few times I believe...
Sorry let me rephrase what I said yes it can be directly applied to the glass or acrylic it will probably not stick permanently and will need to be self supporting. If you have plumbing that can be roughened it will help the mix to stick better. A heavy overhang with little support under it will probably break loose at some point down the line (usually when it will do the most damage :lol:) if it doesn't have something to help hold it in place.
On your other question about increasing set time you would probably need to change the material you are using to one that states it has a longer setting time. Hydraulic cements are made to set very quickly because they are very often used to plug leaking holes in concrete structures.
 
I really like the rapid set cement, so I guess I'm just going to have to deal with it and make 1 rock at a time. With it setting so fast, I usually have some left over in the bin that I just break up when it dries....I have a crapload of rubble right now :)
 
Use the rubble to speed up your building process pile it and add new over it. Same can be done with old shell and base rock.
 
Alright, so I checked 3-4 places and couldnt find anything other then this:
IMG_0947.jpg


What do you guys think, will it be ok? I know Cayars said not to get anything with rust prevention, but this just said it inhibits rust. My only concern really was the "Improved Resin Clean Formula". Anyways, what do you think? Gunna start making these tomorrow if the salt checks out.

Appreciate it,
Matt
 
It's hard to find low grade (crystaline) water softener salt in Canada.

I can't find plain rock salt around here either. Try an independent discount hardware store or farm co-op.
 
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