The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

[mr.wilson]

Re: Talk about a time warp....

Re: Talk about a time warp....

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14677951#post14677951 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stormrider27
Well after four straight days of reading I have gone from 2005 to 2009. My eyes are watering, my neck hurts and my brain really hurts!

First of all a big thanks to all that have contributed to this thread especially IR, mr wilson, Travis and the inventor of Inuckshuk rock (sorry I don't remember your user name). Now on to a quick question.

mr wilson, are you sealing the styrofoam prior to applying the cement and how in the world are you kurring such large pieces?

I had an idea about 200 posts ago that may help speed up the kurring process. My idea is to take one of those vacuum bags like people but blankets in and suck out all the air, attach a one way nipple, place the MMLR in the bag, suck out the air and replace the air with C02. Does anyone think that would help reduce the kurring time?

Again great thread!!!!

First of all congratulations on the dedication required to read this whole thread. I couldn't do it. The vacuum bag idea is a good one and it would work. It's been a while since the idea was discussed, but if I remember correctly the rock should be heated as well.

The styrofoam isn't sealed prior to being covered by cement. The cement mix I use is designed for bonding to styrofoam. I allow the cement to dry cure for a month, then fill the tank with tap water for a week. I do one water change and refill the tank with new saltwater. I start off with hardy fish and slowly work up to inverts. I haven't experienced problems with the slightly elevated PH that occurs in some but not all cases. There's been a lot of discussion in this thread about lowering the PH, but I haven't read anything about a PH in excess of 8.8 or any adverse effects of the elevated PH or calcium levels.

More important than the curing time is the time it takes for the rock to develop nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria and probiotics like coraline algae. The rock will take three months to be fully stabilized for marine life. This is a biological process, not a chemical process.

Don't forget, wild harvested live rock will take longer to stabilize than new man made rock as sponges and microorganisms die off. Wild rock undergoes chemical and biological stress. The best recipe is adding acclimated wild rock to seed man made rock.

 

[Bzar]

Hi, I've made some DIY Rock that looks like coraline encrusted pieces. If you'd like to check it out I have a movie of it on youtube.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_7hEZ9Dba8

Hope this helps anyone that's interested.

 

[stormrider27]

Re: Re: Talk about a time warp....

Re: Re: Talk about a time warp....

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14678311#post14678311 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mr.wilson
First of all congratulations on the dedication required to read this whole thread. I couldn't do it. The vacuum bag idea is a good one and it would work. It's been a while since the idea was discussed, but if I remember correctly the rock should be heated as well.

The Styrofoam isn't sealed prior to being covered by cement. The cement mix I use is designed for bonding to Styrofoam. I allow the cement to dry cure for a month, then fill the tank with tap water for a week. I do one water change and refill the tank with new saltwater. I start off with hardy fish and slowly work up to inverts. I haven't experienced problems with the slightly elevated PH that occurs in some but not all cases. There's been a lot of discussion in this thread about lowering the PH, but I haven't read anything about a PH in excess of 8.8 or any adverse effects of the elevated PH or calcium levels.

More important than the curing time is the time it takes for the rock to develop nitrifying and denitrifying bacteria and probiotics like coraline algae. The rock will take three months to be fully stabilized for marine life. This is a biological process, not a chemical process.

Don't forget, wild harvested live rock will take longer to stabilize than new man made rock as sponges and microorganisms die off. Wild rock undergoes chemical and biological stress. The best recipe is adding acclimated wild rock to seed man made rock.

Thank you mr wilson for your reply. Just to make sure I understand, you use the same type of specialized cement for the entire layering process. Is that correct and if so would you mind sharing what type of cement you are using that allows bacteria penetration and protects the Styrofoam but wont degrade over time?

Currently I have an eleven YO 60G hex reef tank but I am moving into a new house where I can fit a much larger tank (220 Gal). I want to make something dramatic, creative and realistic looking and I must say your work is inspiring tons of ideas! I plan to take it nice and slow planning and setting up the new tank; at least 6 months before anything live goes in, maybe even a year. Once the rock and water stabilizes I will transfer my live rock to seed the MMLR with beneficial bacteria.

Mark

 

[mr.wilson]

Re: Re: Re: Talk about a time warp....

Re: Re: Re: Talk about a time warp....

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14680038#post14680038 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by stormrider27
Thank you mr wilson for your reply. Just to make sure I understand, you use the same type of specialized cement for the entire layering process. Is that correct and if so would you mind sharing what type of cement you are using that allows bacteria penetration and protects the Styrofoam but wont degrade over time?

Currently I have an eleven YO 60G hex reef tank but I am moving into a new house where I can fit a much larger tank (220 Gal). I want to make something dramatic, creative and realistic looking and I must say your work is inspiring tons of ideas! I plan to take it nice and slow planning and setting up the new tank; at least 6 months before anything live goes in, maybe even a year. Once the rock and water stabilizes I will transfer my live rock to seed the MMLR with beneficial bacteria.

Mark

I use different brands and types of cement mixes depending on where I'm working. The styrofoam cement was in Poland where I was building a public aquarium, so the brand was specific to the region. In general, you should be able to find a cement mix that is used for bonding styrofoam sheets. Experiment with small batches before committing to the whole tank.

Fast setting cement should be mixed once, with no reworking or addition of water even a few minutes later. When you disturb the setting process, it greatly weakens the mix. If you follow the rules, you will not have sulphate breakdown. Regular type two cement won't bond well to styrofoam or if used as add ons. You can use a latex cement bonding agent for this purpose.

I don't use salt in my cement mix, but if you do, don't use it with the first layer as it will effect the bond (when applying cement to plastic or styrofoam). Build the new structure and wait it out as you have planned. You can put your old rock right on top for three months after the tank has stabilized (after one month and all is going well). Then you can sell off your old rock and remove it from the tank once coraline and other critters populate the man made rock.

 

[mrpenguin]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14678580#post14678580 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bzar
Hi, I've made some DIY Rock that looks like coraline encrusted pieces. If you'd like to check it out I have a movie of it on youtube.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1_7hEZ9Dba8

Hope this helps anyone that's interested.

Thats is some very nice rock you have made .... Are there nothing in the Plolyblend that might be harmfull to corals or fish ??

Did you add fish to your tank yet ?

 

[victor90]

Re: Re: Re: Re: has anyone used this??

Re: Re: Re: Re: has anyone used this??

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14380931#post14380931 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mr.wilson


If I were you, I would mix the white hydrated lime mortar with type 1 or 11 grey portland. "Insane Reefer" recommends 1/3 hydrated lime to 2/3 portland, and of course the aggregate of your choice. The type of aggregate you select will further influence the colour and texture of the finished product. [/B]

Can you tell me what is aggregate and where can i pickup these supplies
Thanks

 

[ebe]

I still use the old school method and use crushed oyster shell for aggregate. You can get it a feed store, rural king, etc.

 

[victor90]

1/3 hydrated lime can this be purchased home depot
2/3 portland i think home depot
aggregate feed store i will have to look in norcal i don't think there's many feed store like when i grewup in kansas they had the coop

 

[illapino83]

Anyone else used this type of cement? "Colton Portland Cement" http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100317710
It seems that all the home depots and lowes in my area only carry this brand... not the quikrete. Is it ok to use this? I ate a ton of oysters just to do this project.

 

[DouglasTiede]

So are there any of these posts that sum up the process?
I have been skimming the posts for quite some time and it seems that this is what this thread needs.

Maybe I missed it. ( sorry to those who have labored to read all the info for me even asking )

 

[JoelNB]

Post by Insane Reefer in this thread 15th August 2008.

 

[hhaase]

Tried digging through the thread to find it, with no luck.

All the local feed stores around here have switched from crushed oyster shells to "Calcium Chips".

Anybody know what this stuff is, and if it's safe for making rock?

 

[JoelNB]

http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&postid=13154298#post13154298

 

[hhaase]

Joel, going by that post I am assuming it's calcium carbonate. But given the different name, I was hoping somebody could confirm one way or another if it is.

 

[JoelNB]

Not sure. Have you considered using the blend of crushed shells (don't have to be oyster) and aragonite sand or crushed marble?

 

[hhaase]

The issue I'm having is that I can't find any form of crushed shells around here anywhere, and shipping 50lb bags can get a bit spendy. Part of the pain that comes from living on Long Island.

 

[HerdofCrickets]

I'm about to start a 260g build and am going to attempt to do most of it with MMLR and seed it with rock from my 90.

When kuring for PH, do you all use a powerhead and heater?

Is it the consensus that salt is out due to the long term effect of weakening the rock? Do you recommend Pasta instead??

 

[HerdofCrickets]

My new understand is that salt pellets are okay, however, just to be sure I am going to let my rock sit out 3 weeks or so before placing it in the water tubs.

 

[impur]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14818450#post14818450 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hhaase
The issue I'm having is that I can't find any form of crushed shells around here anywhere, and shipping 50lb bags can get a bit spendy. Part of the pain that comes from living on Long Island.

Did you try a feed store?

 

[impur]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14838899#post14838899 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by HerdofCrickets
My new understand is that salt pellets are okay, however, just to be sure I am going to let my rock sit out 3 weeks or so before placing it in the water tubs.

Salt is fine in the mix. Be sure to mix it in after you have mixed all your other ingredients together. Let it sit in a damp (not wet) environment for 28 days then into your kuring bin.