The Ultimate DIY Rocks!

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12181414#post12181414 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kinghokus420
i have several rolls of fishing line from 8 lbs to 40 lbs floating around. i will cut up a bunch and see how it works. i have a roll of weed whacker line that may work too. at the very least it would make some cool tunnels.

Grease the weed whacker line and it should slip right out. Perfect size for spaghetti worms to hide in.

I was wondering if there was a quick and easy way to chop line up, and all I could think of was keeping it on the roll, and using a sharp blade or razor to score it through in like 12 places around the roll. I'm a lazy money...
 
Normal fishing line will absorb some water over time. I'm not sure if it would be a large enough amount to worry about though. Just wouldnt want the rock to fracture.

Scoring the line while it's on the role would be the smartest way I could think to cut it...
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12183324#post12183324 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by logiktest

Scoring the line while it's on the role would be the smartest way I could think to cut it...

you must not have little kids. i plan on a 3 yr old, a 5 yr old, some kiddie scissors and a couple popsicles, while my fat butt watches from the couch.It doesnt get easier than that.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12183699#post12183699 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kinghokus420
you must not have little kids. i plan on a 3 yr old, a 5 yr old, some kiddie scissors and a couple popsicles, while my fat butt watches from the couch.It doesnt get easier than that.

:lol: I don't have children, but if I did, they would be far to busy with their jobs at the sweat shop making designer clothing and basketball shoes. I wouldn't want to be mean and make them work too hard... especially on their one day off for the month.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12183699#post12183699 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kinghokus420
you must not have little kids. i plan on a 3 yr old, a 5 yr old, some kiddie scissors and a couple popsicles, while my fat butt watches from the couch.It doesnt get easier than that.

Thats awesome. (The score the line on the roll wasn't bad either):lol:
 
I eyeballed my hubby when I read the bit about using child labor, but I can't trust him with a pair of kiddie scissors...

I was thinking some more on the scoring, and I think you'd want to wrap the roll with a bit of duct tape first, or I think the first score would have it all popping off the roll at you...
 
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ok heres an even easier way, it just came to me while spooling my new line. just wrap the line around your hand and when you realize your hand wont slip out of the loop, just cut it top and bottom so you then have a bunch of fist length(4-5 inch) pieces. make sure the scissors are handy and you dont have to search the house with an aching hand wrapped in line.
 
Well my first batch was made a couple days ago...still not dry , and really mushy

1.5 cups of cement
1 cup aragonite sand
1 cup of solar crystals

Doesn't seem like it wants to cure(get solid)
 
Failure of the cement to gain an initial set is probably due to a.) too much water and/or b.) too much mixing of the salt.
Even Salt Rock should pass a pin test after 24 hours (can you push a stick pin into the cement or is it really hard to stick it in?), but it can take days for it to achieve any sort of real strength.

Mix the mud first (cement/sand), to the right consistency, and after mixing for 3-5 minutes, then add the salt, and quickly and lightly "toss" it in (try to mix it in in under 15 seconds). The more you mix the salt, the more comes off into the mud - the more there is in the mud, the more retarded the batch can be.

And you don't want it to dry yet - not sure if you meant it was still in a semi-liquid state or if you meant it was still damp and "punky". Damp and punky is good - if the cement dries out too soon, you can have a lot of problems with it down the road.

I'd also consider doubling the amount of sand and salt, especially the sand - the sand could even be bumped up to 3 parts or 4. The more sand, the more strength. Cement is just the glue; give it something to glue together...

HTH :)
 
I did it the way you just posted...it looked like a good mix , the rock is moist to the touch ,but has no solidity to it...like a soft turd(I have a two year old)..lol

one cup of salt seemed to be too much in the mix...maybe another cup of sand next round though..should i take the box into the sunlight and see if that helps? In a cool garage right now
 
Unfortunately, Leebo, if it is still like a "soft turd" (and can I just say, "Yuck!"), there isn't much hope that it will harden at this point.

I honestly have never heard of anyone having cement that didn't at least firm up after 24 hours - portland type cements reach initial set within 4-8 hours, meaning that within 4-8 hours it should become difficult to stick a pin into it. If it isn't at that point after what? 3 days, then it probably isn't going to happen.
Doing this in a warmer place would help, but unless your garage is under 55°F, that would only slow the cure, not keep it from happening.

If it were me, I'd chalk it up to a "learning experience" and try it again. It's a boo, I know, but I don't think these pieces are going to come out for you :(
 
First, let me amend what I said in my last, pre-coffee post.
I've never heard of anyone having cement that didn't firm up after 24 hours, except where either way too much water was used, or the salt was either the wrong type or the salt was over-mixed. And I know that cement that freezes before initial set can have a lot of problems too.

Anyway, I wanted to post my latest 'Cube Backwall. A guy over on Nano-Reefs commissioned it from me. His system is already setup, and I couldn't talk him into moving stuff for a couple of days while silicone cured, so we went with the magnet route. Mostly the magnets will keep the pieces from falling forward off the wall. I sort of designed this with a keystone of sorts; the top left piece fits over everything else and sort of locks it in place.
He has the same tank I do, but wanted a solid, single piece. We compromised with overlaps so the breaks aren't as noticeable. I cast the thing, and have a hardish time seeing the breaks...

This is the piece in the form I made.
abw1.jpg


This is "true color", so folks don't think I made yellow rock ;)
abw5.jpg


Again, but without flash - shows better detail, I think.
abw3.jpg


And finally, a "blown out" photo - so you can actually see where it breaks, if you had any problems. The camera can see the breaks better than the naked eye can.
abw4.jpg


I cast this on Saturday night. I cast on a piece of glass that I had drawn the foot-print of the wall on in Sharpie (on back-side). Used Styrofoam and hot glue to make a form so I couldn't "color outside of the lines".

I used a bit of "gutter-guard" to reinforce the opening around the return head - square piece, with a hole, so this part should be really sturdy.

To get the overlaps, I used waxed paper, in thin strips. I laid a line of cement along the break-lines, and then "ramped" it, pressed down on one side of the line until the whole line formed a slope. I laid the waxed paper down over those ramps, and then cast the rest of the rock, being careful to make sure the waxed paper didn't get completely covered. It worked amazing well.

I let it sit, tied up in a bag, for 18 hours, then steamed it in the MRS. Total time of steam was 8 hours, plus I let it stay in the MRS for cool down over night. I'll let it dry out now, and tomorrow or the day after, I will start the kure. I was hoping to kure these in the toilet, but I think the ledges under the overflow and the return might make that hard to do...
 
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Really nice work. I like the fact that they are in pieces but have you tried them standing. I was wondering how they stack and hold? I would have used the gutter guard through the entire peice for extra stength. The wax paper idea is awesome. I am building the rock work for my new 220-gallon. I like this setup for the overflows. Instead of the keystone I think I will use some zip ties as a "keystone" and drill a few holes in the overflow to hold the rock to the wall.
 
Hey Phil :D

Glad you like it (and dropped by the thread to see it); I'll get on kuring it and getting it out to you. I am going to fill some places on the backside with silicone, to help prevent detritus traps (hard as you try, cement doesn't always make complete contact with the form and so leaves shallow holes), and I'm also going to rub silicone on the sides/edges to reduce the risk of glass being scratched when you go to install this. Ok?

a1amap, I did in fact try it "standing". This morning, I put a panel on the fridge to see exactly what holding power a "17lbs pull" magnet might have, and while it held, it slid. So, being a bit concerned, I decided to try something a bit more realistic. I have one of the panels off of my 'puter, and used that to give it a trial run this afternoon. I was able to tip it forward to about 45° before it felt like the keystone was going to give. I might use my dremel to router out another divot for another magnet (had 2 left over) - just to make sure that the keystone stays put, but all in all I think it will be fine :)
Even if the keystone became dislodged, I think the sand at the base will keep the rest in place because of the way it ties together.

And your idea sounds like it should work. Will you take some pictures? :bum:
 
Oh, and a1amap, I had thought briefly about using the gutter-guard through-out, but I was concerned about over-all thickness of the panels (talking about a tank with 9" front to back in the display area), and I made this more for strength than for porosity - I just wanted the thin area around the hole to have a bit of extra support.
 
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