theMerchant (aka Alan) 150g SCA Mixed Reef

theMerchant

New member
I finally picked the perfect tank for me. I live very close to SC Aquariums and was able to hand pick this tank and stand.

SC Aquarium Tank dims 60x24x24
Custom overflow by Exotic Marine Systems , custom made to 48"
-using Bean Animal drain with 1.5" pipes
SC Aquarium glass sump , modified baffles for 3 chambers (first chamber refugium, skimmer then return)
Ecotech marine Vectra L1 return pump
Ice Cap Gyre 3K



removed the stock over flow and drilled holes 2 inch bulkhead and return lines


drill some holes and added water resistant LED strip





Over Flow



added a magnetic switch to door, so when I open the door lights come on automatically

 
added some cable management, magnetic child proof locks and fans


Modified Bean animal drains



Brackets Installed for support




Returns

 
finished up returns and mounted the Emperors Aquatic UV using the same conduit brackets from Lowes.
For the UV supply, I added a flow meter and gauge




 
Did you have your overflow made to raise the water level? I know the stock ghost overflow's don't work that well with the eurobraced SC 150's because it lowers the water level another couple inches...
 
Did you have your overflow made to raise the water level? I know the stock ghost overflow's don't work that well with the eurobraced SC 150's because it lowers the water level another couple inches...

Ditto this. I'm sure you measured but dang that water line is going to be at least another 2 inches lower.

Setup otherwise looks good but I would have had that gate valve inside the stand unless you have a ton of room to reach around that return line to mess with it.
 
Im ok with the water line being lower. I actually thought about moving the rear euro brace above the side ones.
I will have the canopy lower to the water line anyways.

I kept the gate valve on the back because i would want to see the watet level when adjusting the overflow. The beauty of a bean animal is the set it and forget it quiet drain.
I will also have plenty if room in the back of the tank.


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Im ok with the water line being lower. I actually thought about moving the rear euro brace above the side ones.
I will have the canopy lower to the water line anyways.

Good luck. My water line is pretty much at the eurobrace and I would not want my canopy any lower or else the lighting would need to sit on top of it. Ill be interested to see how this turns out for you.
 
Good luck. My water line is pretty much at the eurobrace and I would not want my canopy any lower or else the lighting would need to sit on top of it. Ill be interested to see how this turns out for you.
Im going to be running 4 AI hdra 52hd so ot wont be as cluncky as T5s on rails.

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Im going to be running 4 AI hdra 52hd so ot wont be as cluncky as T5s on rails.

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It doesnt matter really. My unit has a 1/5" gap from top of unit to the canopy to allow the one power cord room to slide. The unit is 2 inches tall so 2.5 inches total. The hydra 52 is 1.6 inches tall and you will likely want a minimum of 1/4 for the airflow across the back of the unit in the canopy.

So you are talking 2.5" to 1.85" or less then 1/2"... You are going to be pretty darn close to the water which might affect your light spread.
 
Easy, if i feel its a problem, just make or buy new canopy

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The one I have been considering is a floating canopy. Mount to a TV bracket perhaps so it can move slightly but that gives the height and handles light bleed.
 
decided to build my own canopy to house the 4 Hydra 52 HDs.
Will be using the HMS rails and mount so I can side and turn the lights
 
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