Thinking about a pony tank

[swpassion]

Hey all,
I have a 26 bowfront in my bedroom that is currently a FOWLR but it has been completely taken over by bubble algae and apstasia anenomes so I am going to let all the LR dry out, get rid of the top layer of sand (1/2-3/4" of the 4" layer total) and move the Gold banded maroon clowns to my 210 mixed reef.
I am thinking about turning the 26 into a pony tank and want to know what would be the best way to set this up? The tank has the sump built in the back so the filtration. heater, etc. is not in the display area at all. If I let the LR dry out completely can I re use some of it with some new LR? How much LR should I have for ponies and lastly what type would be best for this size tank?

 

[swpassion]

Forgot to mention, it has a 150 watt MH pendant over it now anda remora C skimmer.

 

[rayjay]

As it's recommended that temperatures be kept at 74°F or lower, you should lose the metal halide or move it a way up so no heat gets to the tank. There are a lot of sites on the net talking about 76 and even 78°. but lately, most experienced keepers recommend the lower temps for a better chance of survival for the seahorses.
Seahorses have a propensity for serious bacteria infections like vibrio, in addition to low temperatures, some use only dead rock, even sterilized, in an attempt to prevent unwanted things that come along with the rock. If you do that, you should lose the sandbed or replace it.
Seahorses tanks can be messy so some opt for bare bottom as the increased nutrient can be stored in the substrate to later be a source of food for nuisance algae.
There are a lot of successful ways to operate so you could google "seahorse set ups" or "seahorse keeping" and perhaps find a lot of different methods to consider for your own.

 

[swpassion]

Thanks, I looked it up but there are more opinions than facts I think. Sterilizing the rock would be goodfor me since I have bubble algea and apstasia which is the reason I am thinking ofswitching over. I noticed you signature that ou have clams in FO lightng, what kind of clams doyou have and are they on the base or up high? My 210 has 4 x 160 watt VHO and all I hear is I cant keep any clams, but I really would like one.

 

[rayjay]

I only have two clams, one a purple crocea and the other a squamosa which is so large it sits on the tank bottom. (now it's about 16") I had two crocea's but when the tank sprung a leak and in the process of transferring one to another tank, it ripped off it's rock, tearing the connecting tissues and died soon after.The remaining crocea is in the upper third of the tank.
The tank is a 65 and has 6 fourty watt fluorescent lamps over it, three Philips actinic 03's and 3 GE daylight 6500K lamps.

 

[swpassion]

Well, I am def. going to try those 2 types as well now My tank is a bit deeper so I hope it works.

 

[rayjay]

Your four 160 watt vho's have more output than my 6 NO's so I don't know why you can't keep clams with them.

 

[swpassion]

I was under the impression that T5's were min. and MH was the best and was told by several people here they would not survive under my VHO lights but if you hav sucess with NO I think thay would be OK with my VHO.

 

[rayjay]

You see, I had a big advantage over those starting out now. I never had a computer when I started in Jan 94.
Years later when I did get a computer (98), I found out I couldn't do all the things I'd been doing for many years.
I did have a computer when I started into clams, but I had been keeping all my corals, softies and lps, under NO lighting so I didn't see any obstacle in trying clams. My clams were 3" long when I bought them.
I also have a sebae anemone in that tank, and, I don't feed it.
More no nos.

 

[buy_baff]

^LOL That's the attitude I like to hear!

 

[rayjay]

Keep in mind though that there is a limit to what one should go.
After all, there has to be some common sense applied so take into account what previous experience has shown long term reefers who have quite often already tried many things. (and failed many)