This RO / DI SYSTEM any good?

[rsxs1212]

is the water harmful to you?? you need some of the nutrients in the water for your body..

on the other hand a reef can get excessive algae in the tank and nutrients harmful to reef tank.. if you think all a tank is is stupid living rocks i suggest you spend yourtime elsewhere for you dont understand or compensate the realism of this hobby..

i think that remark is just outright unesscesary and should have been kept to yourself

 

[rsxs1212]

why do you think there are water processing plants?? it is to purify the water to a safe level for yourself.. in some states the plants they are building are doing 0 tds.. but the old ones were not intended to do so

 

[omni2226]

I spend my time where and how I please thank you.

I gave my opinion on water quality and its importance in keeping aquariums as oposed to other animals which may live in peoples houses.
I comprehend reality just fine (or so my doctors keep telling me), and have kept boxes of water with fish in them for over twenty years. But you may be right and I know nothing about this hobby.
On the other hand i f you dont like my opinion,oh well.

 

[rsxs1212]

i dont mind getting opinions.. i just think you explained it in a very rash way.. the saying of the whole living rocks is what got me going i guess.. im sorry if i sounded like a jerk lol but its just that i think reef tanks are more than that.. but as you said we all have our opinions

 

[dannieboiz]

I have this exact unit here

I tested my TDS the other day and I got a reading of "0"

YES ZERO!

I'm usually very picky with my drinking water but I've actually been drinking water from this unit quite a bit now.

I don't know about the $300 unit but I'm happy with my test result.


BTW: I tested the drinking water that I buy from the store and two different places and both read @ 3ppm.

 

[clekchau]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9677895#post9677895 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by omni2226
I spend my time where and how I please thank you.

I gave my opinion on water quality and its importance in keeping aquariums as oposed to other animals which may live in peoples houses.
I comprehend reality just fine (or so my doctors keep telling me), and have kept boxes of water with fish in them for over twenty years. But you may be right and I know nothing about this hobby.
On the other hand i f you dont like my opinion,oh well.

my opinion is, there is a huge difference between public water that is treated for human consumption and water filtered by a treatment unit for aquatic organisms to live in. to try to rationalize a person's argument comparing the 2 is a futile exercise.

 

[carlso63]

If you would refer back to my longish post on page 2 (I believe) - the one right after this thread started to become a 'flame war' - I think you all will find the exact explanation how this cheap system would be fine for some reefers, but not too good (maybe even useless) for others...

1) the quality of the water coming outof any RO / Di unit has to be dependent on the quality of water going in . Period.


I would offer that those posting that these units give them "0" TDS water - or very close to zero - have tap supplies where the incoming TDS is maybe 300 or less.


That is why they can "get away with" a cheaper unit vs. someone with really hard, high mineral content water; like the guy with the 850 TDS tap who got all p*ssed off when others said their cheaper unit was giving them acceptable output water.

I mean, look! Guys are posting proof -with pics of their readings - so we know in certain situations it will work... no need for anyone to get upset about it.

And personally... I can appreciate a guy with alot of experience; I myself have kept marine tanks since 1979 - way back in the day of UGF filters, dolomite gravel, and bleached coral skeletons. I can also appreciate offering an "expert opinion". What I can't appreciate is a condescending attitude which says "no one can have the audicity to question anything that comes out of my mouth / typed on my keyboard or I will insult you, get all p*ssed off, and leave in a huff..."


In fact, the very best advice that my years of experience allow me to offer to others in this hobby is simply this:

Question everything .

If no one ever did that then we all would still be running UGFs in tanks filled with damsels and bleached coral skeletons, lit by flourescent tubes - and hearing about how hard Yellow Tangs were to keep alive more than a month or two; and keeping any corals in a home setup would still be just a pipe dream...


Peace

:rollface:

 

[dannieboiz]

well my unfiltered water measured @ 500-600 if that matters. Can't comment on anything higher.

 

[Reefugee]

Instead of retyping everything, I thought I would quote from a post that I started in my local club forum. I am not claiming that the system I have is "the best" system, but it has worked well for me.

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1093255

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9679466#post9679466 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefugee
There's been numerous holy wars on RC regarding RODI system. Some people swear that the cheapie Ebay RODI system works great, while others tell you that if you don't spend $200+ on an RODI, you have a piece of junk and your fish will all grow a third eye from the contaminated water.

Anyway - I have a an Ebay (AquaSafe) RODI system rated at 100GPD. According to what I have read, the 100GPD RO membrane has a rejection rate to 90%. The 75GPD unit has a rejection rate of 98%. I have been debating on converting my 100GPD RO to a 75GPD RO.

I also heard that the initial burst of RODI water is usually not that great, so it's bad to run RODI for a short period of time. It is supposed to be better to run the RODI for a less frequent but longer period of time. I decided to do some quick tests.

My RODI unit is about 2 years old. All the pre-filters and the RO membrane are originals. I have replaced only the DI five times in the past two years - usually when the RODI water reads 15+ppm. I just replaced my DI with the Funman1's DI group buy (Thanks Steve!). Below are my TDS reading from my test.

Tap water = 515 ppm (my water seems to vary between 500 to 900ppm)
RO = initially 144 ppm but after a few minutes, it read 6ppm
after DI = 0ppm
water production rate: no where close to 100GPD

So according to my calculation, my RO is removing 98.8% of the TDS. Also - it appears to confirm that running the RODI for frequent short burst is worse than running it for less frequent longer period of time.

Here is the interesting part - my RODI water has read as high as 17ppm before. I can't recall if I tested the water at the "initial burst" or after the water had been running for a while. If it was after the water had been running for a while, I am wondering if the DI could have leached some impurities back into the water.

Anyway - I just though I would share my results with the group.

Now - let the religious war start....

Minh

and....

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9686522#post9686522 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reefugee
When I arrived home, my new pre-filters and inline TDS meter were sitting on my porch. I purchased the filter from AirWaterIce (great customer service). The filters were a 10 micron sediment fiter, a 5 micron Carbon filter, and a 1 micron carbon fitler. All the prefilters were replaced.

Picture of the old sediment filter vs the new one. I guess I should have changed out the filter a LONG time ago.

My tap water TDS read 546ppm. This is from the same faucet that feeds my RODI system:

This is the water after it has gone through the RODI system. The initial water quality was 50ppm, but after about 10 minutes, it was down to 2ppm. Basically the prefilter and the RO removed 99.6% of my TDS.

This is the water after it's been through both the RO and the DI. The DI was just replaced last week. TDS = 0

Now that I was done with my little test, I turned off my RODI system. About 10 minutes later, my water post-RO but pre-DI crept up to 10ppm.

So out of curiosity, I turn on my RODI system and let it run for about 10 minutes. The post-RO water read 2ppm again.

Here's a picture of my AquaSafe RODI system. I modified the DI canister so that it stands upright. The water from the RO flows through the bottom of DI canister and then exits through the top. The reason why I did this is so that the water must past through DI to exit the canister. In the horizontal position, it was possible for some water to barely have any contact with the DI resin.

Not bad for a system that I purchased for $96 (shipped) two years ago.

Minh

 

[carlso63]

Re: Re: This RO / DI SYSTEM any good?

Re: Re: This RO / DI SYSTEM any good?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9674500#post9674500 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by REHEM
WoW! This thread got weird quick! I just wanted to try one last time to point out the original question of this thread. And to the original question I politely raised up my hand and answered "Yes", I do indeed have experience with one of these RO/DI units, and here is how I personally have it applied:

<img src=http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/KOLE1357/253.jpg>
TDS reading of 253 of incoming tap water.

<img src=http://i172.photobucket.com/albums/w16/KOLE1357/6.jpg>
TDS reading of 6 of outgoing RO water.

I STILL stand behind this unit for the price, the service, and its user friendliness. There are much, much, much better RO/DI units out there that will give you TDS readings of zero every time, but for people on low budgets, this thing gets me by. It cost me $99, it came with all of the filters and the RO membrane plus 5 extra filters for free. I had the thing 2 days after I ordered it thanks to ebay, and I had it installed that evening in about 45 minutes.

This is my first RO/DI unit purchase. Prior to this, I have bought all of my water for the past year from my LFS by the 5 gallon plastic jar at $1.50 a pop (which isn't a bad price from what I've heard, and the water is magical!). But I change my water weekly, and between top-off water and H2O for salt mix, lugging 6 five gallon jars around town starts to get old. I figure that at $99, this unit will pay for itself before the first set of filters even wear out, so where is the harm?

I personally never intended to insult anyone here, and if I did, I apologize. I never claimed to be an expert anything, I just happened to have qualified the "Does anyone have experience with this unit" description. I like it, but if it does go Ka-POW! then I will definately upgrade and use this thread for future reference as to better quality units.

Happy reefing and HAPPY EASTER!!!!!

REHEM:

It looks like I got the same system you did; although I did not get the reservoir tank - I'm really cheap :lol:

It arrived yesterday... I have to say I was pleasantly surprised by the quality - yes, the quality - of the build on this unit. It is hefty in both size and weight, and the plastic moulding definitely does not appear to be "thin and cheap" as someone suggested previously...

I also noticed that the DI should be able to be refillable, since you an unscrew the end and remove the resin. That gives me at least the option of using some of that "nuclear grade" resin Mr. DesertRat said I will need, if I really end up "needing" to...

I think the one thing I will mod when I set up is to mount the DI vertically rather than horizontally, to ensure 100% contact with the water supply. And (maybe) I will plumb 2 DI units (using the "free" replacement) back - to- back to ensure "0" ppm water; maybe put the 2nd DI in the place of the 'after DI' carbon cartridge...?

Also bought the same TDS meter that you have... my local sources tell me it is a great meter...

 

[rsxs1212]

i think the biggest thing to do is replace the di with either a new resin or what i prefer a large 10" upright housing

 

[Kaos]

I got my RO/DI unit off E-Bay for $1 plus $20 shipping. It puts out a TDS of 1-3 ppm and will most likely drop to 0 ppm when my new DI cartridge arrives.




































Oh, yeah, the unit is a SpectraPure CSPDI 80. :lol2: E-Bay has been good to me at times.

 

[RODSREEF]

So, anyone have any suggestions on which unit to buy?:lol:

 

[REHEM]

Re: Re: Re: This RO / DI SYSTEM any good?

Re: Re: Re: This RO / DI SYSTEM any good?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9695111#post9695111 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by carlso63
REHEM:

It looks like I got the same system you did; although I did not get the reservoir tank - I'm really cheap :lol:

Also bought the same TDS meter that you have... my local sources tell me it is a great meter...

Cool! I also thought that it was a well constructed little unit; and I agree with modifying the DI to a vertical position. I thought about this after AZDesertRat mentioned the benefits of a vertical resin position (thanks AZDesertRat!) and I will probably end up doing the same as well.

The only thing that I like about the reservoir tank is that it has a small amount of air pressure in it which makes the RO/DI water come out faster. I will usually drain the tank and let it refill, and then drain the tank and let it refill. That way, the unit is 100%dedicated to filling up the tank, and it seems to work more efficiently that way.

I also like the TDS meter. My LFS (a.k.a. Reef Guru) keeps them in stock and she recommends them to everybody.

Good luck with the system. Let's keep eachother posted on their success rate...If nothing else, we can turn this into a product test drive! :smokin:

 

[REHEM]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9697300#post9697300 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RODSREEF
So, anyone have any suggestions on which unit to buy?:lol:

(That was funny!)
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[ellisz]

I have been using an Aquasafe unit for 3+ years. I have changed the the DI 3 times and the carbon filters 3 times. I bought the replacement filters from Aquasafe at the time of purchase. My DI is still in the horizontal position but I have wondered about just mounting it vertically.

I need to test my tap water TDS but my post RO/DI TDS is 0. Not saying that this is the best unit out there but it does work. I have wondered about the longevity of the membrane but the TDS reading say it is doing ok.

 

[carlso63]

Re: Re: Re: Re: This RO / DI SYSTEM any good?

Re: Re: Re: Re: This RO / DI SYSTEM any good?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9697673#post9697673 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by REHEM
Cool! I also thought that it was a well constructed little unit; and I agree with modifying the DI to a vertical position. I thought about this after AZDesertRat mentioned the benefits of a vertical resin position (thanks AZDesertRat!) and I will probably end up doing the same as well.

The only thing that I like about the reservoir tank is that it has a small amount of air pressure in it which makes the RO/DI water come out faster. I will usually drain the tank and let it refill, and then drain the tank and let it refill. That way, the unit is 100%dedicated to filling up the tank, and it seems to work more efficiently that way.

I also like the TDS meter. My LFS (a.k.a. Reef Guru) keeps them in stock and she recommends them to everybody.

Good luck with the system. Let's keep eachother posted on their success rate...If nothing else, we can turn this into a product test drive! :smokin:

I finally set mine up today (sorry, no pics; my dumb dog chewed on my cameras USB cable so I can't upload pics - hopefully I can pick up a new one this weekend)

By "happy coincidence" the TDS meter came in the mail not 15 minutes before I started setting the RO / DI up

Anyway, after running for 30 minutes to clear the lines / remove filter 'dust', etc. here are my "numbers":


TDS in (from tap water supply) = 221 ppm

TDS out (after RO only) = 14 ppm

TDS out (after RO and DI - I moved the meter 'downstream') = ZERO...

I also put my DI up vertically like DesertRat suggested...

Only issue for me is what seems like a low output... Then I reread the instructions and saw that on neoprene water lines (like mine) they recommend removing the needle valve after you puncture through the line and using a 1/4" drill bit to make a "rounder hole that won't partially close back up..." I didn't do that first time around. I'll do it tomorrow morning and see if it helps - because at the rate it was going it looks like it would take a week or two to fill up my 125 gal tank!!! :eek1: :eek2: :eek1:

 

[Pyrrhus]

Carlso, your membrane is rejecting less than 94% of the impurities in the water it will cost you extra money for the DI because of that alone.
you might be able to get around 140g of 0 TDS water at best before the DI is shot. With DI once the resin is used up and the reading after DI is greater than 0 the DI starts to release po4 and no3 and other impurities that it has previously absorbed, and can actually be of worse quality than the RO water feeding the DI.

 

[carlso63]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9780832#post9780832 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pyrrhus
Carlso, your membrane is rejecting less than 94% of the impurities in the water it will cost you extra money for the DI because of that alone.
you might be able to get around 140g of 0 TDS water at best before the DI is shot. With DI once the resin is used up and the reading after DI is greater than 0 the DI starts to release po4 and no3 and other impurities that it has previously absorbed, and can actually be of worse quality than the RO water feeding the DI.

Actually, after drilling out my neoprene water line to increase incoming pressure, and actually running the unit more than 5 - 10 minutes total before taking numbers... I rechecked the TDS levels with the increased pressure and after letting the filters "break in" for 30 minutes, with the output line going to my sink drain.

Now, I get consistent numbers that show the following:


TDS in (from tap water supply) = 221 ppm

TDS out (after RO only) = 9 ppm

TDS out (after RO and DI - I moved the meter 'downstream') = 0 ppm

BTW, after filling my 125g tank, 30g sump, 10g refugium (all of which took 2 and a half days to accomplish), the numbers haven't fluctuated much; and still 9 after RO and 0 after DI...

This equates to a 96% rejection rate; not quite the 98% that the "premium" units advertise, but satisfactory to me...

I do question the idea that I will get around "140g of 0 TDS water before the Di resin is shot" simply because I already have run through 165g to fill my setup, and 25g in 'reserve' tank for water top off, and have filled a 33g trash can to use for water changes... that's a total of 223g already run, and doesn't count the 5 to 10g I have let run down the drain while "breaking in" the unit over the first few days it was installed...and I am still at 0 post-DI...

And , I recieved a second set of all filters (except a 2nd membrane) included with my order, so when the DI does run out I already have a backup waiting. Plus, with my system the DI canister is refillable, so when the time comes I will simply buy a good quality resin in bulk to refill the DI canister. And when time comes, a year or 2 down the line, to replace the membrane I will "upgrade" to a 50gpd Dow unit anyway...

I totally understand the equation being thrown around that "for every 2% less rejection rate ar the RO, you will shorten your DI life by half"... so, in my case, I will be going through DI resin about twice as fast as a guy with a $300, 98% rejection, "premium" unit.
However, that means I will have to buy (and consume) an additional $400 worth of DI resin before I spend as much total cash out as the guy with the premium unit. How?

Me - $100 machine +400 resin = $500 total

"Premium" guy - $300 machine + $200 resin = $500 total

(remember, I will burn through DI resin about twice as fast as the "premium" unit does because my rejection rate is 2% less than the premium unit...)

So then, the question is, how much time goes by before I burn through $400 worth of DI resin?

If my memory is accurate, if I buy 'nuclear grade" bulk resin it will cost me around $9 a pop to refill my canister... that means around 45 refills... I am going to say that (in spite of my experience so far) my DI will be "shot" at the 300g mark on my unit... that's 45 more refills at 300g / refill...

45 X 300g = 13, 500g of 0ppm water before I spend more total $$$ than the guy who bought the "premium" unit for $300...

If I change 25% of my water volume monthly (around 40g) and consume 60g month in top off, that's an average usuage of about 100g of RO / DI water a month...

Sooooo, 13,500g / 100g per month means I will pass the "break even point" vs. the "premium" unit user in approx 135 months ( or, 11.25 years from now ...)

Heck, in more 11 years I could just buy another "cheap" unit, couldn't I ???

 

[In Deep Water]

AZDesertRats occupation is water/wastewater operations.....I think he knows what he's talking about.