Toggle bolt strengths..

[Smite]

I'm deciding how to hang my spectra fixture. It's about 60 pounds. Normally I would add a 2x4 between studs in the crawl space above. Where the tank sits it's borderline inaccessible innthe crawl space above due to the way my roof is framed.

This has me looking at toggle bolts. I'm not sure if these weight ratings are in wall or off ceiling. 1/8" toggle looks like it'd fit the hanger hardware. It has a 75lb rating so I'd be under half weight when considering the 60lb will be dispersed between 2 toggles. I believe the ceiling drywall is 3/4". Still kinda spooks me, anyone hang a heavy fixture similarly?

Thanks

Matt

 

[m0nkie]

I hang multiple 4ft 8bulb ATI hybrid with toggle bolts

 

[Duality]

I screwed a board to the celling studs then put a heavy duty I-bolt into the boards.

 

[Mchava]

I’d be more worried about the ceiling not holding the weight. I had an 8x48 ATI fixture fall on one side and land inside my tank. Completely destroyed the electronics inside. I’d recommend doing the same thing Duality did. Not the best looking foxy but better then waking up in the middle of the nigh with a loud crash and water all over your floor.

 

[five.five-six]

Toggle bolt strengths are listed by the manufacture and usually are printed in the container they are sold in. There are different values for ceiling and wall mounts and they assume 5/8” wallboard on 24” or 16” wood members respectively.


I would consider getting a stick of shallow strut and having it powder coated white and then attaching the hanging kit with spring nuts and eye bolts. HD has these new spring nuts for shallow strut that don’t use springs, they are pretty slick.

 

[Smite]

Yeah, I was worried I'd be pushing my luck. I'll have to prep for that squeeze with a couple bikram classes then, lol

I thought about something similar to that but my wife would throw a **** fit about it for sure. My tank sits under this little step down left from a remodel I'm guessing, but I think even if color matched it might look a little off. If I can't get back there I'll go that route somehow though.
20191208_135625


Thanks for the input everyone, greatly appreciated!

Matt

 

[five.five-six]

It has a 75lb rating so I'd be under half weight when considering the 60lb will be dispersed between 2 toggles. I believe the ceiling drywall is 3/4". Still kinda spooks me, anyone hang a heavy fixture similarly?

Thanks

Matt

I would use 2 1/8" toggles to mount a 4' wrap and 3-4 of them for a 8' wrap. Those fixtures probably weigh 5 and 10 pounds respectively. That and they are held tight to the lid. Those toggles will hold your fixture right get up until there is an earthquake. Make something attractive to span 2 joists. Perhaps a 2X4 and case it in a small crown molding. Get a router and bevel the edges and paint it. Be creative.

 

[westminsterfrag]

Couldn't really find anywhere wether you're hanging directly in drywall only or why you can't find a stud. If you can hit a stud. You don't need Toggles. Just use Sammy's.

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...VH724GHapelhu-dHtnzYHjDUC2F3doA,sgro:iv,mvi:0

Its a female side for you common bolts. They are rated for a lot. If you can get the studs. You can just bolt your hanging kit to the Sammy's. Or even hang it with all thread. That way your fixture doesnt swing. But don't plan on being able to move it

 

[Smite]

Couldn't really find anywhere wether you're hanging directly in drywall only or why you can't find a stud. If you can hit a stud. You don't need Toggles. Just use Sammy's.

https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...VH724GHapelhu-dHtnzYHjDUC2F3doA,sgro:iv,mvi:0

Its a female side for you common bolts. They are rated for a lot. If you can get the studs. You can just bolt your hanging kit to the Sammy's. Or even hang it with all thread. That way your fixture doesnt swing. But don't plan on being able to move it

Pretty cool idea!

I ended up digging through my blown insulation and sliding way back in there. I was able to screw a 2x4 from stud to stud above the ceiling. Came out clean. Now I just need to figure out a clean solution for cooling fans.

 

[five.five-six]

Now I just need to figure out a clean solution for cooling fans.

backing in 2X4's is the right way to do it. You won't regret putting in the extra effort.

I don't know if you saw this when I posted it but it's the bees knees on my system. Unobtrusive, quiet, and effective. 3X400W halides are no match for it without a chiller

Summer is coming and I don't want a chiller. My first attempt at fan cooling on this tank was over the sock section in the sump, it didn't cool enough so I set off to build an Air Gyre. It doesn't gyre bit it does blow a lot of air acros the water surface

First I marked up my 1/2" plexiglass

After the rough cut, I drilled and tapped mounting holes for the fans

After spending some time with sand paper, files and a belt sander getting the straight parts straight and the round parts round I start finishing the edges with a router

Best helper in the worls woke up at the crack of noon to help out.

Next we used nylon machine screws to mount the Noctua NF-A14 iPPC-2000 5" industrial fans, IP52 certified water and dust protection to the Plexiglas

And here it is on the tank

Before building this setup, I used these fans with the bracket at the top of this post for proof-of-concept and it was remarkably effective. no need for a chiller and if left on, even with the halides I can cool the tank enough to turn the heaters on.

 

[Smite]

backing in 2X4's is the right way to do it. You won't regret putting in the extra effort.

I don't know if you saw this when I posted it but it's the bees knees on my system. Unobtrusive, quiet, and effective. 3X400W halides are no match for it without a chiller

That is awesome, I do remember seeing that! I bought my fans based off your build. So the fans blow straight down and pushes across the top of the tank?

I was thinking I might be able to hide them if I built small brackets off my wall behind the light that angle them down a bit.

This is my temp solution for now, Really need to clean up the wiring a bit
20191214_091934

I'm starting off with 250w radiums overdriven on an HQI setting. It looks great but I'll have to see if it can reach down well enough in my 24" tank. Some acros are pretty low.

 

[Smite]

backing in 2X4's is the right way to do it. You won't regret putting in the extra effort.

I don't know if you saw this when I posted it but it's the bees knees on my system. Unobtrusive, quiet, and effective. 3X400W halides are no match for it without a chiller

For some reason one of my radium bulbs is running much more white than the others. Do you think it could be the way I have my fans temped up? maybe they are cooling to two right bulbs causing them to run more blue?

All are radium 20k being driven off icecap ballasts on HQI (i just double checked as that was my first thought)

 

[five.five-six]

For some reason one of my radium bulbs is running much more white than the others. Do you think it could be the way I have my fans temped up? maybe they are cooling to two right bulbs causing them to run more blue?

All are radium 20k being driven off icecap ballasts on HQI (i just double checked as that was my first thought)

I don't know about that, it might be a defective lamp or ballast. Try swapping 2 of the lamps and see if the issue stayed with the socket or the lamp. If it stays with the socket swap 2 of the ballasts and see if the issue stayed with the ballast or the socket location.

 

[pga7602]

For some reason one of my radium bulbs is running much more white than the others. Do you think it could be the way I have my fans temped up? maybe they are cooling to two right bulbs causing them to run more blue?

All are radium 20k being driven off icecap ballasts on HQI (i just double checked as that was my first thought)

Switch ballast to find your answer.

 

[Smite]

Awesome, makes sense. Thanks.

 

[Smite]

Weird swapped and same lamp is whiter. I guess it's the bulb

 

[westminsterfrag]

backing in 2X4's is the right way to do it. You won't regret putting in the extra effort.

I don't know if you saw this when I posted it but it's the bees knees on my system. Unobtrusive, quiet, and effective. 3X400W halides are no match for it without a chiller

I don't seem to find a post about your set up on your posted thread or posts. Is there a 4 pin power source you hook this up to directly? I'm not a computer guy. I use to use computer fans and rigged it up with old ac adapters.

 

[five.five-six]

Awesome, makes sense. Thanks.

I fail to see how having to replace a $78 lamp is awesome.


How long has it been running? Halides may take up to 100 Hard running to fully break in.

 

[Smite]

I fail to see how having to replace a $78 lamp is awesome.


How long has it been running? Halides may take up to 100 Hard running to fully break in.

Awesome* was geared towards the trouble shooting techniques, not the replacement of a bulb :thumbsup:

The bulb was from the previous owner. I'm told they were running for a month before taking the light down on his system. The fixture itself was packaged well but the bulbs were left installed for shipping. To be honest I'm surprised they made it intact.

 

[five.five-six]

Awesome* was geared towards the trouble shooting techniques, not the replacement of a bulb :thumbsup:

The bulb was from the previous owner. I'm told they were running for a month before taking the light down on his system. The fixture itself was packaged well but the bulbs were left installed for shipping. To be honest I'm surprised they made it intact.

I have a good supply of used radium 20k's in good to very good condition if you want to make the trip to Corona. I'll hook you up With one for free. You can fire it up on a spare ballast and check it with the par meter.