Tunze nano mod
- Thread starter mr pink floyd
- Start date
Open up the single controller
Open up the single controller
I have been running my modded 6055 on a Tunze single controller pulsing from 100% to 30%. I felt 30% is still not small enough a flow to have a true wave effect. Since th Tunze controllers were all designed for the Streams which can not have minimum flow less than 25% of the full flow, I can understand the 30% minimum flow set on the controllers.
But the 6055 can be slowed to at least 18% of the maximum flow, and by alternating between 100% and 18% (or even 10%) I think it will make the pulsing more effective. There is of course a limit at slow flow below which the motor can be damaged.
So I decided to open up the controller and show the board, in hope that some of your EE experts can help me out:
The controller has three potentiometers, the one on the upper left is for pulsing interval control, two at the center are for flow control. The one on the top is usually set at 100%, and the lower one set at 30% (minimum dial).
I assume the potentiometers by design can adjust from 0 to 100 so to limit the low dial to no less than 30% some resistors (?) are added. I circled in red two resistors that are connected to each terminal of both flow control potentiometers.
Maybe by hot-wiring one or both of the resistors we should be able to make it happen?
Any help would be appreciated since I am clueless when it comes to circuit boards.
Open up the single controller
I have been running my modded 6055 on a Tunze single controller pulsing from 100% to 30%. I felt 30% is still not small enough a flow to have a true wave effect. Since th Tunze controllers were all designed for the Streams which can not have minimum flow less than 25% of the full flow, I can understand the 30% minimum flow set on the controllers.
But the 6055 can be slowed to at least 18% of the maximum flow, and by alternating between 100% and 18% (or even 10%) I think it will make the pulsing more effective. There is of course a limit at slow flow below which the motor can be damaged.
So I decided to open up the controller and show the board, in hope that some of your EE experts can help me out:
The controller has three potentiometers, the one on the upper left is for pulsing interval control, two at the center are for flow control. The one on the top is usually set at 100%, and the lower one set at 30% (minimum dial).
I assume the potentiometers by design can adjust from 0 to 100 so to limit the low dial to no less than 30% some resistors (?) are added. I circled in red two resistors that are connected to each terminal of both flow control potentiometers.
Maybe by hot-wiring one or both of the resistors we should be able to make it happen?
Any help would be appreciated since I am clueless when it comes to circuit boards.
NewSchool04
New member
I came home and one of my modded 6025 was not spinning. I could feel the pump vibrating but no spin. I tried to unplug and then plug it in, did that a couple of time and nothing. I finally got it running by tweaking the propeller with a long stick.
The pump has been running a little under a week.
Anyone else have this problem?
The pump has been running a little under a week.
Anyone else have this problem?
NewSchool04
New member
It's def. not broken and didn't feel like it was loose. I'm wondering if other people that have modded the 6025 have seen this happen or if this is normal for modded Tunzes.
NewSchool04
New member
I did the first mod. The one you carve out the thin plastic extra tubing. Maybe it was just a fluke, I just hope so.
No that can not be the cause. If the metal shaft is firmly planted in, try to clean the pump with vinegar solution overnight especially the prop driver and see if that will help.
BTW someone suggested a quick and easy way to test my above theory so I tried and it was indeed quick and easy and it worked.
I simply had to bypass (hot-wire) both resistors shown in the previous picture, set both potentiometers at 50% and adjusted them from there. I was able to get the controller to drive the pump between 100% and 15% cycle. Also checked the max DC voltage to be 23.7V, max DC current at 1.18A, all fell in the acceptable range. The total watts cycled between 9W and 36W since my 6055 motor was driving a trimmed 6200 prop. The flow was of course pulsing between 450 gph to near 3,000 gph.
Below is a picture of the testing equipment in action:
I was surprised by the fact that the Tunze controller did not change the DC voltage input to the pump in order to change the speed, the voltage was a constant 23.7V when the controller was in use. Not being an EE major I can only speculate there are some electronics in both the controller and the pump motor in order to communicate to each other.
Of course this mod was temporary and for testing only. I put the controller back together unchanged afterwards. It however proved a controller specific designed for the lower minimum flow (18%) of the 6055 pumps isn't going to be difficult.
BTW someone suggested a quick and easy way to test my above theory so I tried and it was indeed quick and easy and it worked.
I simply had to bypass (hot-wire) both resistors shown in the previous picture, set both potentiometers at 50% and adjusted them from there. I was able to get the controller to drive the pump between 100% and 15% cycle. Also checked the max DC voltage to be 23.7V, max DC current at 1.18A, all fell in the acceptable range. The total watts cycled between 9W and 36W since my 6055 motor was driving a trimmed 6200 prop. The flow was of course pulsing between 450 gph to near 3,000 gph.
Below is a picture of the testing equipment in action:
I was surprised by the fact that the Tunze controller did not change the DC voltage input to the pump in order to change the speed, the voltage was a constant 23.7V when the controller was in use. Not being an EE major I can only speculate there are some electronics in both the controller and the pump motor in order to communicate to each other.
Of course this mod was temporary and for testing only. I put the controller back together unchanged afterwards. It however proved a controller specific designed for the lower minimum flow (18%) of the 6055 pumps isn't going to be difficult.
In that case I have to give the Hydor Koralia pumps a plug. Their prop drivers are much smaller than the motor cavities, unlike the Tunze with very precise fit. As a result the K pumps uses more energy and are much bigger in size for the similarly rated flow. But they need less maintenance also.
If all possible try to avoid direct light on the pump so hard algae do not grow in it as easily, but that is not always an option.
On a side note, now that my controller is capable of 0% to 100% pulsing, I will probably use my modded 6055 and controller to do a DIY wavebox just for fun. Again not permanent just for testing purpose. If successful, someone may find it a good alternative to the $500+ Tunze wavebox.
If all possible try to avoid direct light on the pump so hard algae do not grow in it as easily, but that is not always an option.
On a side note, now that my controller is capable of 0% to 100% pulsing, I will probably use my modded 6055 and controller to do a DIY wavebox just for fun. Again not permanent just for testing purpose. If successful, someone may find it a good alternative to the $500+ Tunze wavebox.
Last edited:
skydancer
New member
man you've been busy!!!
I was out of town for a few days, and I came back to see the guts of the controller out...etc... well done..
The reason the DC voltage doesn't seem to change is because the multimeter can not respond to the new voltage change this fast. You need a scope to see the DC voltage change but believe me it does... The 6055 has a dc motor and it responds to dc voltage changes. The frequency of how often the voltage changes is what makes the "pulsing" action of the wave.
Good to know, I thought the speed was controlled by changing voltage. And thank you for the links on the multimeter and accessories, as you can see from the picture above they work together like a charm.
With one modded 6045 pumping close to 1500 gph, and the 6055 pulsing from 870 gph to 2900 gph, the tank is now washed clean of fish waste, sand bed is all white again, the skimmer in the sump is working overtime collecting all the junk. I am tempted to order another 6055 but I know I will mod it again and my tank has no need of that much flow, maybe it's time to upgrade the tank to say 300g
hounddog01
Active member
Way cool ideas. I have read most of this thread. I have both a 6025 and 6045. I have been contiplating purchasing another 6045 but think I will mod a 6025 instead. I do use these on a wave maker and switch them every 30 minutes in a accelerated flow design.
My question, and I am sorry if it has already been discussed, if you put a 6045 cover on the 6025 does that make as much difference as removing the internal shroud?
Thank You to everyone who responds.
My question, and I am sorry if it has already been discussed, if you put a 6045 cover on the 6025 does that make as much difference as removing the internal shroud?
Thank You to everyone who responds.
No Brad, they don't cross fit each other, you just have to get off your lazy *&^ and do that 5-minute mod for your 6025!
The value of 6045 is now clear, I don't know if that is worth the extra $30 but after the mod there is no concern of self-correct problem because the stopper is already built-in. Even if you don't want to be bothered with fitting a bigger prop to pump out 1500 gph, the fact the 6045 has a stronger motor ensures that it will continue to run even if a little buildup is in the motor. It requires less maintenance.
The value of 6045 is now clear, I don't know if that is worth the extra $30 but after the mod there is no concern of self-correct problem because the stopper is already built-in. Even if you don't want to be bothered with fitting a bigger prop to pump out 1500 gph, the fact the 6045 has a stronger motor ensures that it will continue to run even if a little buildup is in the motor. It requires less maintenance.
hounddog01
Active member
So you are saying that the 6045 is probably worth the extra $30 if I want less maintenance. This is good to know because I travel often and my wife watches the tank.
hounddog01
Active member
You are correct about the hourly wage! I will look back thru the thread and see if I can find a pic of the stopper mod. I have seen where it is dremeled but not the stoper. If you have a page number or a picture that would be great!
I already read more than one person had his 6025 pump stopped when he tried to restart it, and needed to clean it, nothing to do with broken shaft or anything. I haven't heard any 6045 users reporting such. The 6025 prop is running right at its motor's capacity, but the 6045 motor has some more juice left to handle the buildup a lot longer, just my speculation.
There is the downside of having a very efficient pump, more cleaning is needed. Fortunately the 6045 is just as efficient but may be more forgiving. We will need some more time in order to confirm that but it does follow some logic.
As far as the stopper mod, depending on which one you are talking about, the one I did that duplicates the 6045 built-in stopper certainly takes mroe than 5 minutes to make no matter how good you are.
So for some people I can certainly see the benefits of the 6045 I mentioned above may easily justify the extra $30.
hounddog01
Active member
Thank you for your comments. I think I will just spend the extra $30.00 and get the 6045. I am considering replacing my 6060 stream with 2 6045's. I think they look better and I can direct the flow in mutiple locations.
One thing I have found is that it is better to get the good stuff than to buy it later.
One thing I have found is that it is better to get the good stuff than to buy it later.
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