Tunze nano mod

jacmyoung.... Don't get me wrong I like what you're doing to the nano. But I think it would be somewhat a dream yet to think that one could pressure the manufacturers to change their tunes.

1. It costs, and it costs A LOT to retool/redesign for mass production.

2. It also costs to QA the redesigned product. Gotta have decent QA to know what you can or cannot support in your product.

3. Especially since the nano mod isn't difficult to do, more the reasons why a manufacturer won't redesign it. I mean why would they when people can just as easily buy the product and mod it or pay someone else to do it for them.

4. Bottom line here again is money. They will only change if it makes them money and as long as people keep buying an inefficiently designed product, they will never change. This would be true for any manufacturer and not limited to just Tunze.

5. I also think it's highly unlikely for Tunze to design a nano version that can put out as much flow as the larger 6000, 6100, and 6200 behemoths. That means they would have to phase out 3 product lines to do this and these have been the cash cows for Tunze thus far. Only way to make this happen is if other manufacturers start putting out nano like pumps that CAN compete with the larger stream pumps. Hydor maybe doing just that ...

If the MJ mod haven't yet pressured Aquarium Pharmaceuticals/Marine Land/ Instant Ocean or what have ya to start producing these stream style pumps from their own MJ motors, I don't hold much hope for the nano mod being able to change Tunze's ways either. But I could be wrong and just maybe.... Just maybe they would wake up and give the consumers what we REALLY want and not what they THINK we oughta have.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9887340#post9887340 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NewSchool04
Thand GSMguy, I'll try that.
This pump on my swirl is unbelievable and I haven't gotten the second one on the tank yet! I'm having problems fitting the swirl to the back of the tank, it's too close to the back wall. They may have to be side by side right in the middle of the tank going opposit ways. I'm out to Home Depot to see if I can find some nylon screws that are a little longer than the ones that came with the swirl.

If that does not work, you can try a 90 degree elbow (or 45 degree) to connect the SS to your nano clamp mod so the 6025 will stick out more. The beauty of the nano is the clamp can be any orientation and the ball will be fully adjustable.
 
dhnguyen, a few points:

1) Tunze does not need to redesign the nanos to put out more flow, if I can do it so can they. The motor is rated 24V and 1.2A, much more so than the 6055 really needs. You can say they built a very inefficeint motor, or I can say they were preparing for something bigger to come, all a matter of perspective. As an example, they can easily upgrade the transformer for 6055 and allow the prop to spin much faster, put out more flow without any retooling. They have done so for the Stream pumps. The 6000 can be turned into a 6100 by replacing the transformer. Or they can easily make a more pitched prop for 6055 and drive the flow higher, in this case the new prop is all they have to make.

2) I don't think 6025 and 6045 are inefficient. Yes the flows are restricted, but the nanos are just that, made for nano tanks that need sub-1,000 gph flow.

I agree with you they will not do anything if their Stream pumps sale is not under any threat, but now we have VorTech and other newcomers on the horizon so things can be different.

BTW, the newer batch Nanos have already implemented some suggestions posted in this very thread, and in fact I recall one comment you made very early on about the advantage of using a stainless steel washer, did you know they have one in every new nano pumps now? You are giving yourself too little credit:)
 
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BTW, I also trimmed down the 6055 prop to the point that my 6045 could consistently drive it, at that point the pump was drawing 8W. My bag test showed the flow was not much less than earlier test with the stock euro-prop (6055 prop) which was 1500gph, it is now about 1450gph. It will be a tough call if the extra 250gph is worth the trouble though.

Similarly hand trimming down the prop if done right could further reduce the pump vibration, my 6045 pump with the slightly trimmed 6055 prop indeed vibrated less than when it was driving its own prop (6025/6045 prop).
 
jacmyoung... The retooling I was talking about is for a redesigned shroud which would incorporate some very simple mods to increase the flow and also add a prop stopper to make the nano more efficient (basically all the stuff that you have been doing to the nano). Remember even a small and simple change will require retooling for the new mold and that costs major money when you're talking about mass production.

Speaking of changes in design, I noted that the Hydor K pumps have recently started using ceramic shafts. Bad idea IMHO, we all know how fragile ceramic is... Better to stay with stainless steel or use a better/stronger material likie carbon fiber IMO.


D.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9891869#post9891869 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
jacmyoung... The retooling I was talking about is for a redesigned shroud which would incorporate some very simple mods to increase the flow and also add a prop stopper to make the nano more efficient (basically all the stuff that you have been doing to the nano). Remember even a small and simple change will require retooling for the new mold and that costs major money when you're talking about mass production.

Speaking of changes in design, I noted that the Hydor K pumps have recently started using ceramic shafts. Bad idea IMHO, we all know how fragile ceramic is... Better to stay with stainless steel or use a better/stronger material likie carbon fiber IMO.


D.

Your points are very well taken. I am not holding my breadth that Tunze will implement major changes or roll out new nano pumps. They can't even keep up with the demand as it is. Hydor is also fully aware of the broken ceramic shaft issue.

I think it is very important to most this message, even though most of the reefers already know. While doing any of the mods and tests:

Never have any part of your body in the wet while any electrical device is turned on, always plug your gears into GFCI protected outlet, and don't assume the protection works, test it with a little GFCI tester before any work. Switch off and unplug hardware before getting your hands wet.

For those test where pumps must be held by hand, use a simple strip of material to hold the pump by clamping the magnet holders on to it.
 
Forgot to ask you Don, with the 6055 driving a trimmed 6200 prop, the transformer is too warm to the touch. While the current is under the rated 1.2A on the transformer, is it still a good idea to look for a third party transformer?

There are many out there that have higher amp ratings. I have a few laptop transformers rated 3.42A but they are only 19V. It seems a 24V is hard to find.

Any thoughts on that?
 
I did find a third party variable voltage transformer (18V to 24V) rated 3.5A on Ebay, will see how it performs. I am pretty sure the overheating issue on the Tunze transformer can be resolved.

While doing the shopping it came to me, can we find an automated DC switch that can be connected to both transformers, one set at 12V, the other 24V. If the switch can flip between the two connections, we will have a DIY wavemaker, alternating the flow between 100% (24V) and 18% (12V). The switch preferably can be set on various time interval, say 1 second or 5 seconds. And to take it further, if somehow two pumps are used on the opposite sides of the tank, by switching them from 100% to 18% alternately, wouldn't we have a Tunze multicontroller minus all the other fancy gigs? And the time interval if can be set according to the length of the tank, some nice wave can be generated.

One thing I observed with my Tunze single controller (same for the multicontroller) is while it is nice to be able to switch from 100% to 30%, the 30% flow is still too much to have a true wave effect. Between 100% and 18% would be nicer, even better would be 100% and 5%, if it will not harm the pump. Of course the pump should be on all the time to avoid fish get caught in it.

Any thoughts on this idea and where might we find a switch like the above?
 
I am just as clueless but a term such as "low voltage DC relays..." kept popping in my head:)

Any electrical or electronics engineers out there?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9885752#post9885752 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung
They are faux coral, there is a full tank picture a few pages back.
Thanks, I don't know how I missed that page of the thread. I kind of figured they were faux, but they look nice all the same. It would look really nice with the real thing.

Great thread guys!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9896529#post9896529 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung
I am just as clueless but a term such as "low voltage DC relays..." kept popping in my head:)

Any electrical or electronics engineers out there?

I was thanking about an alternative pulsing method and read a member mentioning the same on another thread.

The idea is connecting two transformers (one 12V, the other 24V) in parallel, plug them into a wavemaker. The wavemaker will turn them on and off alternately in pre-elected interval therefore sending the pump alternating DC voltages.

I don't know if such hookup will adversely impact the transformers. The Pump should be running continuously between 100% and 18% speeds.

If a lower DC voltage can be used on the pump, say I have a few 6V transformers collecting dust, then switching between 24V and 6V will give 100% and maybe 5% alternating flows.

Of course with two pumps four transformers will be needed, but if it works, sure beats buying a multicontroller.

Yes or no? Where is everyone? Maybe Ron was right, even thinking about DIYing Tunze is such an oxymoron.
 
The problem with what you're trying to do with the 2 transformers is that your timers MUST be synchronized exactly the same. Otherwise you could fry the pump when both transformers turn hot at the same moment so to speak. This will be very tricky to do.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9899994#post9899994 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dhnguyen
The problem with what you're trying to do with the 2 transformers is that your timers MUST be synchronized exactly the same. Otherwise you could fry the pump when both transformers turn hot at the same moment so to speak. This will be very tricky to do.

So you don't trust the regular power strip type wavemaker to provide clean switching then?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9900296#post9900296 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jacmyoung
So you don't trust the regular power strip type wavemaker to provide clean switching then?



It may be possible to use a better controller like a Neptune, something that uses a microprocessor to precisely control the timing. But no I wouldn't trust just any regular power strip type wavetimer. Alternatively, you can probabbly build one as well if you know how to program in assembly.

D.
 
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