Uglyman's Experiment

Uglyman

New member
Hi everyone

I am a long time lurker sometimes poster here on Reef Central and I thought it's about time I put up a tank journal so here is my latest build in progress.


My name is Shane and I live in a small township called Pyalong outside of Melbourne, Victoria in Australia, my current system is a 90 gallon sps heavy setup has been running for about 9 years successfully and it is showing signs of its age particularly the silicone inner seal is coming away from the glass but it is also time for me to build my dream setup. I have really enjoyed my old tank but as most people would know you ALWAYS run out of room.

So here goes :D

This tank will be based on a mix of my own knowledge of keeping sps and the design/theories of the Triton Method. It will be run based on Triton flow rates and sump design with my own personal tweaks to certain aspects of the system. I will be using the Triton ICP testing once I work out how to get the testing done and plan to have the first test done at approx the 6-8 month mark after setup and then additional tests at possibly 3-4 months there after. I don't think I will get more than 3 tests done in the first twelve months as I believe that most systems don't mature till they have run for 12 months or more. After the first 12 months I will consider doing possibly 4 tests for the next twelve months. I will not be using the Triton suppliments as I don't think they are entirely neccessary to keeping the tank running at it's best, I will instead be using lab grade supplements where possible or marine specific ones depending on cost/ease of sourcing.

The main aim I have is to reduce water changes to a minimum as I believe after extensive observation on my current setup the need for them is sometimes overrated and can in some cases be detrimental to the tanks inhabitants. Now I know there will be some people who may think I am talking rubbish and they are entitled to there opinion, but this is my tank and I am doing it my way and I want to attempt this for the simple reason that I think it can be done.
I am also building this setup for my love of sps and so I can have a system that has all of the kinks worked out that I could never fix with my old tank. Everyone knows there are little things about your first marine setup that annoyed you and you wish you could fix but can't without starting again.

This is my starting again :-D

Build 3D overview
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Display Tank: 1700 x 660 x 560 Starfire on front and both side panels with beveled and polished edges as well as a one piece eurobrace built by Starfire Aquatics.
The tank has a right hand corner overflow that is half the size it normally would be and due to it's reduced size it meant reduced access to the plumbing so I came up with my own overflow design that has a removeable front panel held in place by Neodymium magnets.

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Stand: I wanted to go with a custom built steel stand for this build due to the fact that I wanted the front of the stand to be open with no central support pillar to obstruct my access to the sump. The stand is galvanised 50x50x3 RHS tubing and will be powder coated to protect it from corrosion.
I am going to clad the stand with varnished timber and all sides will be removable being held on with magnets/clips so access to the underside is easy. The stand will have a electrical section in the left hand side closed off from the rest of the sump section to protect all the electronics from splashes.

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Sump: 1400x600x460 The sump is based on the Triton design and has four chambers two of which will be running macro then the usual skimmer chamber and return chamber, I will be running two reactors in the return chamber for both GFO and GAC. The sump will also have higher back and right side panels to reduce the amount of splashes on the stands internal panels as this was always a pet hate of mine on my old system.
The only difference with this sump compared to most will be the skimmer chamber is after the macro chamber, so flow will enter the first and second chambers on the right holding macro then into the skimmer chamber then on to the return chamber on the left. The first baffle on the right is about one inch off the bottom to allow the water to flow down into the second chamber. There are two macro chambers to allow me to run both caulerpa brachypus in one and chaeto in the other so flow rates for each macro can be varied with pumps to suit the macro type. The last baffle on the left is designed to force flow down to the bottom of the chamber as per Triton design to allow amino's, trace elements and beneficial proteins released from the macro to be picked up by the return pump rather than producing a surface film in the chamber. I am considering using a marine pure block in this last chamber but I have heard triton tests have picked up elevated aluminium levels on systems using these blocks so I will see if more info points to these being a problem before deciding.



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Display Lighting: I will be running two metal halide Lumenmax Elite reflectors with 250w Electronic ballasts running phoenix 12k globes. In conjunction with these halides I will be running 3 rebuilt maxspect G2 160w leds all the old Bridgelux leds have been replaced with Philips luxeon ES leds. But this may change later to three Lumenmax halides if I am unhappy with the growth or colouration that my corals exhibit.

Each maxspect G2 Led unit is using
2 violet UV 410-420nm
2 True violet UV 400-410nm
2 lime
2 cool blue
2 cyan
6 cool white
6 neutral white
10 royal blue
They also have the old 2x30w 10k white leds in them but they may be changed out soon.

The lighting system will be suspended from the ceiling on cables and will have a motorised lift system.

Sump lighting: 2xPAR38 LED Spotlights.

Controller: Apex running 2xEB6 power boards and a breakout box for the ATO system as well as ORP, PH and Temp probes.

Display Water Circulation: I will be running my current 2 Vortech MP40w ES pumps on the back wall of the tank and have a WP40 on right hand side running across the tank.

Return Pump: Latest generation Jebao DCT 12000 running at about half flow to try to provide approx 6000l/h flow through the sump.

Skimmer: Reef Octopus 3000 super skimmer with bubble blaster pump.

Evaporation Top Up: Apex with Avast peri pump with a RO reservoir of approx 50-100l under the house, the RO reservoir will be monitored by the Apex with float valves and will be refilled by a line running from the laundry where the RO/DI is.

Heating:One 600w Schego in the sump and a 300w Schego in the weir with both being controlled by the Apex.

Cooling:I will be running a Haliea 500a under the house that I will hopefully only need during summer going by my current testing of dual 250w halides again this will be controlled by the Apex.

Dosing Equipment: I will be using my current GHL 4 pump doser for Alk, Cal, Mag and Potassium but will be looking into the costs of running a Calcium reactor instead due to the larger demand on supplements in a tank this size. If I switch to a Calcium reactor I will likely use the doser for Potassium, Strontium, Iodine and Iron.


So that is the details of the system and photos of the current progress will follow.
 
Two shots during construction of the tank at Starfire Aquatics.

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Stand under construction

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Couple of current tank shots, I have black vinyl wrap for the back panel and black acrylic cut for the overflow I'm just waiting on Neodymium magnets to be able to finish the weir.

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This shot shows the triangle corner piece cut out to allow wiring for the Jebao WP40 and Schego heater to fit neatly under the eurobrace.

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Skimmer

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Return Pump

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Ooooh i like the look of this build mate, especially the whiz bang removable weir panel - i'm a tad worried about that one btw lol.

Do you have any pics of your current SPS display Shane and what the lighting is over it. I like the fact you're going with halides :thumbsup:

Please note: if your acros make mine look like crud i'm not gonna be happy......... :p
 
Here's three pics from my current tank.

First is 5/2011
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Next is 10/05/2012 looking at it's best under led

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Next is 28/11/2013 after approx 5 years of using leds and a unexplainable bout of RTN started and I had a lot of acro death and loss of colour.
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This shot was 10/11/2014 when I decided to try metal halides due to the amount of RTN issues I was having and within 2 months all RTN had slowed or disappeared.

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Lastly a quick iphone shot of the old next to the new with a pair of Lumenmax reflectors undergoing some testing for the new tank.
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That's a first seeing someone switch from LED to halides. Sucks when corals rtn. All that hard earned beautiful coral growth gone. I wonder why the LEDs all of a sudden turned on you.
 
The leds dropped par significantly after the four year mark, don't know if that was a major part to the problem but changing to Halides seems to have fixed the issue.
 
That's a first seeing someone switch from LED to halides. Sucks when corals rtn. All that hard earned beautiful coral growth gone. I wonder why the LEDs all of a sudden turned on you.

Actually quite a few die hard SPS keepers seem to be gravitating back to halides these days.
 
How are you getting the Triton testing done? I wasn't aware we had access to it in Australia. Interested to hear as I would get it done myself
 
Nice to see another aussie build thread and it looks like you'll keep the standard high for aussie reefs, much to the disgust of some American and European reefers I know:lol:
 
How are you getting the Triton testing done? I wasn't aware we had access to it in Australia. Interested to hear as I would get it done myself

I have family in both America and Germany so can always have samples sent off through them. But there are rumours that a Triton testing lab will be established here in Oz.

Nice to see another aussie build thread and it looks like you'll keep the standard high for aussie reefs, much to the disgust of some American and European reefers I know:lol:

Thanks Rory :thumbsup: just trying to build a system I can enjoy for years to come.

Nice Shane,
You still have the purple milli?
looking good

Thanks Richard :D Yep I still have the purple Milli, it has encrusted and grown a little but not colouring up much. I have it in a low light area and it may not be happy so may try moving it or waiting till this new tank is done.
 
The leds dropped par significantly after the four year mark, don't know if that was a major part to the problem but changing to Halides seems to have fixed the issue.

Very interesting observation. Totally debunked the never having to change bulbs with LEDs pitch if it is in fact true.

Awesome build so far! Tank looks super clean.
 
Very interesting observation. Totally debunked the never having to change bulbs with LEDs pitch if it is in fact true.

Awesome build so far! Tank looks super clean.

The Maxspect G2 160w units I use went from 1200 par at 8 inches below the light out of water to 350 par at the approx 4 year mark. The maxspect units had all bridgelux leds and I had the UV's burn out a lot and also had a substantial number of blues burn out. I think the quality of the leds was an issue which I should be able to prove to some degree since I have rebuilt these lights using top quality Philips luxeon ES leds for this new build. So after 12months to 2 years I should have an idea as to how well these lights keep corals with the higher spec Luxeons.

I am not counting out Leds for keeping corals just yet but I have my doubts as to their life spans, par loss and more importantly spectrum change over time.
 
Thanks for those tank shots mate, you obviously know what you're doing :)

Looking forward to seeing how you build this magnetic weir thingy - i'm still worried lol.
 
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