Understanding and choosing t5 Ballast. diy

It may be possible, but it's very likely to either under-drive or over-drive the bulbs by quite a bit (in this case I'd wager over-drive, which could end really bad.) Even if it's manageable and works, if the manufacturer doesn't list that bulb type for a particular ballast and something were to happen, fault is going to fall squarely on you - any insurance will be quick to point the finger too - and that's a really big risk to take IMO.

I use 80W bulbs so I'm not as familiar with the smaller sized lamps, but I think 18W t5's are sort of a "wildcat" size and so not much for options for DIYing, but I could be wrong. The spec sheet for the ICN-2S24 doesn't list anything for 18W t5, and I don't know if you'll get more than a simple "No." from them if you email them about it.
 
I dug a little more - Current USA was the company offering 20" t5 fixtures - their recommended replacement ballasts found through a link on their website offer a sunpark programmed start model for F18T5HO. at only 14$ for a 2 lamp ballast, I have found the right components for my DIY.

Thanks for the responses
 
A lot of great information on this thread!!!

My question: The ICN-4S54-90C-2LS-G states it can run 3 or 4 bulbs. If I'm running 3 bulbs, is it going to over drive any of the bulbs? Is the power efficiency less?

Also, looking at tombstones, what does shunted and unshunted mean?
 
stephenhall1987 said:
A lot of great information on this thread!!!

My question: The ICN-4S54-90C-2LS-G states it can run 3 or 4 bulbs. If I'm running 3 bulbs, is it going to over drive any of the bulbs? Is the power efficiency less?

Also, looking at tombstones, what does shunted and unshunted mean?
Click to expand...

http://www.lightingsupply.com/media/pdf/ICN4S5490C2LSG.pdf

Based on that spec sheet the ballast factor stays the same no matter if running 3 or 4 bulbs so you will be fine.
 
stephenhall1987 said:
A lot of great information on this thread!!!

My question: The ICN-4S54-90C-2LS-G states it can run 3 or 4 bulbs. If I'm running 3 bulbs, is it going to over drive any of the bulbs? Is the power efficiency less?

Also, looking at tombstones, what does shunted and unshunted mean?
Click to expand...

Originally (with older T12 lamps) the tombstones (a.k.a sockets or lamp holders) had two wires coming from the ballast into the tombstone. One wire connected through the tombstone to each pin on the end of the lamp. This allowed the ballast to send current through the cathodes (think of a little filament like in an incandescent light bulb) at either end of the lamp.

The ballast would warm up the cathodes, then provide a burst of high voltage to start the arc through the lamp. This was called "rapid-start."

Then along came T8 lamps and electronic ballasts. Rapid-start was still available, but there was another system introduced called "Instant-start." Instant-start ballasts have only one wire running from the ballast to each tombstone. The two leads into the tombstone are connected together (shunted) and connected to the one ballast wire. The ballast no longer warms up the cathodes - it just uses brute force (higher voltage) to get the arc going.

This saves a couple of watts by eliminating the cathode warming, but shortens lamp life due to stress of starting the lamp.
 
gus6464 said:
http://www.lightingsupply.com/media/pdf/ICN4S5490C2LSG.pdf

Based on that spec sheet the ballast factor stays the same no matter if running 3 or 4 bulbs so you will be fine.
Click to expand...

FishTri said:
Originally (with older T12 lamps) the tombstones (a.k.a sockets or lamp holders) had two wires coming from the ballast into the tombstone. One wire connected through the tombstone to each pin on the end of the lamp. This allowed the ballast to send current through the cathodes (think of a little filament like in an incandescent light bulb) at either end of the lamp.

The ballast would warm up the cathodes, then provide a burst of high voltage to start the arc through the lamp. This was called "rapid-start."

Instant-start ballasts have only one wire running from the ballast to each tombstone. The two leads into the tombstone are connected together (shunted) and connected to the one ballast wire. The ballast no longer warms up the cathodes - it just uses brute force (higher voltage) to get the arc going.

This saves a couple of watts by eliminating the cathode warming, but shortens lamp life due to stress of starting the lamp.
Click to expand...


Awesome! Thanks guys! Exactly what I needed to hear.
Judging by the wiring diagram, and being "programmed start", I'll assume that I need the non shunted.
 
Of the three starting strategies (Instant-start, Rapid-start, Programmed Start) Programmed Start is easiest on the lamp and in typical applications offers extended lamp life.

Both Rapid-start and Programmed Start ballasts apply cathode heat as they start the lamp. They will have two wires coming from the ballast to each tombstone, and require non-shunted tombstones so that the ballast can apply a current across the cathodes. Instant-start ballasts will only have one wire coming from the ballast to each socket and therefore require shunted tombstones.

A Rapid-start ballast heats the cathodes and applies a high voltage across the lamp all at the same time. A Programmed-start ballast takes a more elegant approach. It first warms up the cathodes, then applies voltage across the lamp. This results in a much gentler start and does not beat up the cathodes as much.

Fluorescent lamps typically fail, when they fail to start. You rarely see a lamp that is operating suddenly stop operating. But the next time you try to turn it on, it won't. Its because one of the cathodes has failed (again, just like that little filament in an incandescent light bulb).

Regarding T5 (or T5HO) lamps, those ballasts are predominantly Programmed-start and would use non-shunted sockets.
 
About to buy the advance ballasts is the 90c temp all that important for a typical install? I plan on mounting the ballasts to the outside back of my canopy so they will have somewhat better airflow over them then if they were totally enclosed. Should I save the 6 bucks per ballast and just get the regular "T" ballast
 
Really wish this post had shown up when I was searching this topic. I just bought 2 workhorse ballasts :(

I think I'll go ahead and install them, then I can replace them in a few months if they're acting up.
 
I'm modifying some lights I got for free.

I was given a pair of 8-tube 48" T5HO's, but my tank is only a 30" cube. I cut the two ends off and I'm going to remount them into a wooden canopy. Replace the stock ballasts with the smaller ones, and I should be done. The stock reflector is really nice, so I'm going to cut it down and reuse it too.

The stock light had Workhorse 7's in it, which is why I bought the Workhorse 5's for the rebuild.

I figure I should end up with a nice little 28"x28" canopy to hang over the DT.

I just hope these lights will work decent over a tank that's 30" deep. I'm guessing that higher-light items will need to be higher in the tank, and I probably won't be able to keep clams with only T-5's above the tank.
 
Yea I don't have any experience with T5's so I can only really guess if the light will penetrate that depth. I'm going based on the advice here about the ballasts. Originally I was just going to buy the LET retro kits from BRS but by piecing the lights together I'm going to end up saving close to 50 bucks since I only want to add 3 bulbs. I'm adding them to eliminate the shadows caused by my radions.
 
Anyone know where I can get 18 gauge wire? I bought the Let retrofit but need additional wire to connect to the ballasts ( in the cabinet below)
 
All of my HD and Lowes have lots of wire. If they don't stock any voltage rated 18 (there will surely be some comm wire, just not for mains connection), just use 16 or 14 stranded.
 
ok, after only 4 pages my mind is spinning in a circle. here is my question and i want a simple answer. I have 4 48" t5 atinic bulbs, i want to run 2 at a time, which means i need 2 ballasts. Since i was going to get Fulham but realized they are not good for the long haul, i will look at Advance Centium unless otherwise advised. What model do i need for slimmest design and quality while being budget friendly, from 1000bulbs.com
thanks for the help
 
Perfect, I think I'll get 2 unless there is something equivalent or better in quality for less of a cost.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 
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