banthonyb71
Active member
I'm posted my thoughts on refurbishing my Halide fixture for another thread. I dint wanna lead to far off base. as I still plan on proceeding with the t5 build.
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Understanding and choosing t5 Ballast. diy
- Thread starter banthonyb71
- Start date
1mbrews8
Member
ok, so right now, I have (8) 60", 80w T5s over my DT. They are powered by 3 ice caps (660, 660, 430) with 3 bulbs, 3 bulbs, and 2 bulbs respectively wired.
Both the 660s went out.
What are my options on replacing them? I read the thread and kinda have an idea, but it is better if you guys would just say this is A, this is B. Pick one.
)
Do I need other wiring harnesses?
not sure if I want to replace the ic430 right now...
thanks!
Mike
Both the 660s went out.
What are my options on replacing them? I read the thread and kinda have an idea, but it is better if you guys would just say this is A, this is B. Pick one.
)Do I need other wiring harnesses?
not sure if I want to replace the ic430 right now...
thanks!
Mike
uncleof6
Active member
ok, so right now, I have (8) 60", 80w T5s over my DT. They are powered by 3 ice caps (660, 660, 430) with 3 bulbs, 3 bulbs, and 2 bulbs respectively wired.
Both the 660s went out.
What are my options on replacing them? I read the thread and kinda have an idea, but it is better if you guys would just say this is A, this is B. Pick one.
Do I need other wiring harnesses?
not sure if I want to replace the ic430 right now...
thanks!
Mike
Replace them with proper T5/HO ballasts that have been discussed above. While you are at it, replace the 430 as well, as it is the wrong ballast just as the 660s are. The current limiting is insufficient to safely run T5/HO lamps.
They do not make a wire harness, for proper ballast/lamps combinations. You would have to wire them up the same, and the wiring will not be the same. The wiring diagram comes on the top of the ballasts. (If you buy decent ballasts. If you buy junk, you may have to hunt for the proper wiring diagram.
1mbrews8
Member
thank you!
but, I am still a bit confused on the ones for 80w that are talked about above..
how many do I need for 8 total (6 for now) 80w bulbs? I think this:
for 80 watt, you need 3x ballasts if HEP, and 6x if using Advance
And which "part #" for the advance or hep? I think:
ICN-1S80-T = Advance
or
SI280 UNI = HEP
I would prefer the HEP, but cannot find anywhere to buy them?
I will replace the 430, but since it is working for now, I think i'll wait til it bites the dust)
but, I am still a bit confused on the ones for 80w that are talked about above..
how many do I need for 8 total (6 for now) 80w bulbs? I think this:
for 80 watt, you need 3x ballasts if HEP, and 6x if using Advance
And which "part #" for the advance or hep? I think:
ICN-1S80-T = Advance
or
SI280 UNI = HEP
I would prefer the HEP, but cannot find anywhere to buy them?
I will replace the 430, but since it is working for now, I think i'll wait til it bites the dust
)
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Bootlegger
New member
I was trolling this thread as I'm currently in the process of modifying my 6x 54THO system. I inherited the fixtures with a used tank, which are three Hamilton retrofits using Fulham Workhorse 5s.
I've built several T5s systems and this is the first time I'm NOT running Sylvania Quictronic Program Start or an Advance ballast with program start. The Fulhams fire the bulbs just fine (instant start...ehhh) but dim out as the fixture heats up in the hood. T5s do lose lumens as the get past a temperature threshold but I haven't see it this bad (using my eyes so a subjective perspective...then again I've been doing this long enough to where I trust my eyes)
Anyway, I'm going to add a couple cooling fans on a temp switch set for as close to 100F I can find, e.g. turning on until the bulbs after they are running and warmed up. If this doesn't solve the problem, I'm going back to what I know.
Note: I had some used bulbs that came with the fixtures that the previous owner clearly ran far past what you'd want to do in this hobby (he complained he couldn't keep SPS...no wonder). These were dimmer than any T5s I've seen and very black at the ends. After firing a fixture with the Fulhams, I fired up another fixture with a spare Sylvania Quictronic Professinal ($80-$120 ballast). There was a clear lumen improvement with the Quictronic Pro. I'm a cheap-a$$ but in this case I'll say that this is an area worth paying more.
Note2: A lot of people run Fulham Workhorses and are happy with them. I don't think they are bad but maybe not versatile enough for every system. I think if you're running a fan cooled hood and changing bulbs every 6-8 months, you'll be just fine. If you're looking to push the limits on temp and/or bulb-longevity with best lumen maintenance, then go with professional series Program Start ballasts. At $16-25 per bulb, it's worth it.
I've built several T5s systems and this is the first time I'm NOT running Sylvania Quictronic Program Start or an Advance ballast with program start. The Fulhams fire the bulbs just fine (instant start...ehhh) but dim out as the fixture heats up in the hood. T5s do lose lumens as the get past a temperature threshold but I haven't see it this bad (using my eyes so a subjective perspective...then again I've been doing this long enough to where I trust my eyes)
Anyway, I'm going to add a couple cooling fans on a temp switch set for as close to 100F I can find, e.g. turning on until the bulbs after they are running and warmed up. If this doesn't solve the problem, I'm going back to what I know.
Note: I had some used bulbs that came with the fixtures that the previous owner clearly ran far past what you'd want to do in this hobby (he complained he couldn't keep SPS...no wonder). These were dimmer than any T5s I've seen and very black at the ends. After firing a fixture with the Fulhams, I fired up another fixture with a spare Sylvania Quictronic Professinal ($80-$120 ballast). There was a clear lumen improvement with the Quictronic Pro. I'm a cheap-a$$ but in this case I'll say that this is an area worth paying more.
Note2: A lot of people run Fulham Workhorses and are happy with them. I don't think they are bad but maybe not versatile enough for every system. I think if you're running a fan cooled hood and changing bulbs every 6-8 months, you'll be just fine. If you're looking to push the limits on temp and/or bulb-longevity with best lumen maintenance, then go with professional series Program Start ballasts. At $16-25 per bulb, it's worth it.
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Sounds Fishy
New member
Most Tek equipment comes apart fairly easy,by unscrewing the cover and reflectors.I am guessing that they are Workhorse ballasts,but I may be wrong.The easiest thing to do is take the unit apart and look at the ballast.Just order the identical ballast online and have it delivered to you at your address.
Kyuss
Megistered Rember
Are you looking for OEM replacements or just any proper spec ballasts?
Gorgok
New member
As i understand the main issue is they are instant start type ballasts, which shortens the useful (color shift) lifespan of the tubes. A programmed start ballast is much gentler on startup and the tubes last longer.
Now that isn't an issue on things that don't get shut off much, or where color shift isn't that big of a deal, so they are common... We pay a bunch for the 'right' color in the tubes, so having it shift is a little annoying for the little more you pay for a ballast once... (in a while).
Now that isn't an issue on things that don't get shut off much, or where color shift isn't that big of a deal, so they are common... We pay a bunch for the 'right' color in the tubes, so having it shift is a little annoying for the little more you pay for a ballast once... (in a while).
richgoose
New member
I am trying to determine the answer to a similar question as above. I would like to create a DIY t5 fixture to go over a 20x20" cube, using (4) 18w TrueLumen t5's. Based on what I have read here, I could probably get away with (2) ICN-2S24 ballasts. the questions I have -
1) Will there be a problem driving the smaller 18w bulbs or does the ballast compensate?
2) is there one ballast I could use for all (4) bulbs?
I wrapped my mind around DIY LED, but this T5HO stuff seems more confusing.
1) Will there be a problem driving the smaller 18w bulbs or does the ballast compensate?
2) is there one ballast I could use for all (4) bulbs?
I wrapped my mind around DIY LED, but this T5HO stuff seems more confusing.
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