Understanding and choosing t5 Ballast. diy

[uncleof6]

As stated before, a t5 project was definitely something I was interested in making happen as soon as possible. but now I'm having doubts on if what I'm trying to do is smart. I wanted to attempt to make a t5 fixture from scratch. but I've been reading every thread I could find for the last several days and I dont see people doing what I'm trying to do. Essentially people either use retro kits or assemble a new fixture out of a fixture they already have. I dont have a fixture in the size I want.

Is there even a point in me buying these ballast if I have to buy them with a retro kit anyway?

If possible I would like to use high quality reflectors. but who makes them? Let? Ati? any recommendations on where I can buy individual parts or a way I can buy reflectors, balllasts, seperate?

Whether an assembled retro would be worth it or not, depends on what ballast comes with the retro. Not all retros are created equal, and they do not all have the proper ballast (doesn't have to be Advance or HEP, just proper.)

On the other hand, a DIY retro...

http://www.hellolights.com/48-Inch-54w-Retrofit-Kit/dp/B00CSAXV42?class=quickView&field_availability=-1&field_browse=6794660011&id=48+Inch+54w+Retrofit+Kit&ie=UTF8&refinementHistory=brandtextbin%2Csubjectbin%2Ccolor_map%2Cprice%2Csize_name%2Citem_type_keyword&searchNodeID=6794660011&searchPage=1&searchRank=salesrank&searchSize=12

Building a custom fixture is a decision you have to make. I have done many of them, and so have others. I think most folks are more apt to get in trouble cannibalizing another fixture, rather than starting from scratch. It is not that hard really. You need a surface to mount the end caps, and the rest just goes together. You have to understand, you are not going to be building an ATI Powermodule. The secret to the powermodule is in the cooling system, (case design,) the tombstone end caps, and the reflectors, Aquactinics are comparable. (And then they go and ruin it by adding LEDs.)

Parts are readily available, other than tombstone end caps used to make narrower fixtures than the "water resistant big white end caps." Aquactinics markets very high quality reflectors arguably the best since IceCap is kaput. No. 1 and No. 2 respectively. They are not advertised on their website, you have to call them.

Ballasts are available all day long online. They may cost more than locally sourced, (trade electrical supply houses.) Watch the start type (programmed start, not instant start) and stay away from Fulham, the least reliable ballasts on the market.

https://www.1000bulbs.com/category/f54t5-fluorescent-ballasts/

End caps a dime a dozen.

The hardest thing to find is 18 gauge solid copper wire, which makes the Hellolights' deal very attractive.

 

[Kyuss]

Good to hear some feedback on the Advance ballasts. I posted in another T5 thread recently about replacing ballasts for 2x 80w T5s and seems proper F80T5HO ballasts aren't all that common, and then to find a reliable place with them in stock; I can find 18ga solid copper wire a lot easier than this.

After the mess with ordering the Sola ballasts from 1000bulbs (appeared as in-stock, no note to call them to make sure etc, but then switched to back ordered til 3/4 after I ordered 2 and they emailed me as such) I found a place in driving distance that has 2 ICN-1S80s in stock. Think I'll be taking a little trip to the store soon.

 

[banthonyb71]

(doesn't have to be Advance or HEP, just proper.

whats the difference between these and the advance ballasts at a home depot or lowes?

" Aquactinics markets very high quality reflectors arguably the best.

what is the website? I cant seem to find. Is LET now Aquactinics? I was reading some forums and I read that a company that is now LET has some of the highest quality reflectors available. are we speaking of the same? This is the only site I found
http://letlighting.com/ Which is not much of a site.

The hardest thing to find is 18 gauge solid copper wire.

I can make myself useful here. we build emergency vehicles. we using nohing but high quality true gauge wire.

 

[uncleof6]

whats the difference between these and the advance ballasts at a home depot or lowes?

They are ICN-4S54-90c-2LS-G if HD has them for 36 bones, grab it... that ballast can be as high as 202 bones. But you will still need to pick up an ICN-2S54.

what is the website? I cant seem to find. Is LET now Aquactinics? I was reading some forums and I read that a company that is now LET has some of the highest quality reflectors available. are we speaking of the same? This is the only site I found
http://letlighting.com/ Which is not much of a site.

This is their contact info:

Aquactinics, LLC
5 Philips Pl.
North Haven, CT 06473
(203) 234-9286

If the phone is disconnected they might have gone bye bye. I have been on their website before, and it was a nice website. Don't find it now.... last tweet was 1 Jan 2011... might have to stop talking about them.

I can make myself useful here. we build emergency vehicles. we using nohing but high quality true gauge wire.

 

[Kyuss]

whats the difference between these and the advance ballasts at a home depot or lowes?

Looks like Home Depot actually carries the correct Advance ones for F54T5HO, at least online. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...orescent-Replacement-Ballast-502211/202977281

On Lowes website I can only find T8 & T12 ballasts.

Ballasts have a "ballast factor" that is determines how they drive a bulb for the bulbs they're designed to drive. A low BF (<1.0) is under-driving a lamp so it'll put out less than the bulbs rated lumens, but will extend the life of the bulb. A high BF (>1.0) will over-drive the bulbs so it'll put out more than the rated lumens, but will shorten the life of the bulb. A BF of 1.0 means the bulbs operate at the intended spec for T5HO and so at their stated spec.

Ballasts like the Icecap 660 that are notorious for over-driving T5HO bulbs are actually designed for T8 & T12. They work, but being that they weren't designed for T5HO spec you get what you get, which happens to be an over-driven T5HO bulb. I haven't seen the manufacturer(s) list a ballast factor for these on T5HOs which makes sense since that wasn't what they were intended for, but I've read it would equate to something like a 1.2 BF, which is quite high (20% over-driven.) Not sure how accurate that is however. Over or under-driving a bulb will also shift the color spectrum a bit from it's intended range.

There's also the start type - instant start, rapid start, and programmed rapid start. The programmed rapid start ballasts, while not required, are said to lengthen the life of the bulb. Instant and rapid start ballasts are said to blacken the ends of the bulb over time, particularly instant start.

Ballasts like the Advance Centiums are designed for the T5HO spec so they have a BF of 1.0 and are also programmed rapid start ballasts all for $30-$40. It doesn't make too much sense to cut corners here when bulbs are $20+ a pop. Instead of over-driving the bulbs you'd be better off adding two more bulbs, rather than having to switch all of your other bulbs out more often, deal with hotter running bulbs, and the shift in color spectrum. 54W and lower bulbs you can run two bulbs on one ballasts so even with reflectors & bulbs it's not long before you're back ahead money wise, and from what I've gathered 80W bulbs take to over-driving the worst.

 

[aiq25]

I would like to try this as well. I think pick up the Advance F54T5HO, I been thinking about a DIY T5HO fixture for some time.

 

[banthonyb71]

202 bones.

he said bones. hehe

Looks like Home Depot actually carries the correct Advance ones for F54T5HO, at least online. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...orescent-Replacement-Ballast-502211/202977281

On Lowes website I can only find T8 & T12 ballasts.

.

Thanks for all the good info. more of what I been looking for.

Its cool I can grab them from Home Depot without paying shipping.

I'll update once I receive the ballasts. still havnt decided on reflectors. I seen another review on ****** about LET reflectors being same as aquailliminations. any one heard of them

Also, what other options besides a wooden canopy do I have for the fixture?

 

[Kyuss]

Also, what other options besides a wooden canopy do I have for the fixture?

I've been thinking about just ditching this creation from the previous owner of my tank and making a new setup as well.

Something simple like t-slot framing http://www.ebay.com/itm/330568173792, maybe a couple cross-braces and aluminum sheeting on the top with some 120mm fans and it wouldn't look half bad IMO and would make it quite easy and relatively inexpensive. Just keep in mind it's anodized if you want to paint it. Doable but a little more work.

 

[banthonyb71]

I've been thinking about just ditching this creation from the previous owner of my tank and making a new setup as well.

Something simple like t-slot framing http://www.ebay.com/itm/330568173792, maybe a couple cross-braces and aluminum sheeting on the top with some 120mm fans and it wouldn't look half bad IMO and would make it quite easy and relatively inexpensive. Just keep in mind it's anodized if you want to paint it. Doable but a little more work.

I wonder if I could try that and incase it with somthing like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brite-Brush...571?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20eda13913

 

[banthonyb71]

Advance Centium ICN-2S54, right from the ballast case. It is also listed in their catalog as ICN-2S54. Some places it is listed as ICN-2S54-T; even Advance has it listed that way in their spec sheets.

An ICN-2S54-90c-T ballast is the "same," but has a max ballast case temperature of 90°C for warranty purposes, rather than the standard 70°C warranty on the standard ICN-2S54-T.

The important part is the ICN-2S54, the line voltage: 120/277, and the line frequency: 50/60Hz.

Just for grins, the ballast frequency is above 40KHz.

btw. are these ballasts dimmable?

 

[uncleof6]

btw. are these ballasts dimmable?

Ok, now you are asking too much, of a Home Depot ballast. Dimmable gunna cost you some bucks. If you wanna have your cake, and eat it too, you have to get away from Home Depot into the real market.

 

[banthonyb71]

Looks like Home Depot actually carries the correct Advance ones for F54T5HO, at least online. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Philips-...orescent-Replacement-Ballast-502211/202977281

On Lowes website I can only find T8 & T12 ballasts.

Ballasts have a "ballast factor" that is determines how they drive a bulb for the bulbs they're designed to drive. A low BF (<1.0) is under-driving a lamp so it'll put out less than the bulbs rated lumens, but will extend the life of the bulb. A high BF (>1.0) will over-drive the bulbs so it'll put out more than the rated lumens, but will shorten the life of the bulb. A BF of 1.0 means the bulbs operate at the intended spec for T5HO and so at their stated spec.

Ballasts like the Icecap 660 that are notorious for over-driving T5HO bulbs are actually designed for T8 & T12. They work, but being that they weren't designed for T5HO spec you get what you get, which happens to be an over-driven T5HO bulb. I haven't seen the manufacturer(s) list a ballast factor for these on T5HOs which makes sense since that wasn't what they were intended for, but I've read it would equate to something like a 1.2 BF, which is quite high (20% over-driven.) Not sure how accurate that is however. Over or under-driving a bulb will also shift the color spectrum a bit from it's intended range.

There's also the start type - instant start, rapid start, and programmed rapid start. The programmed rapid start ballasts, while not required, are said to lengthen the life of the bulb. Instant and rapid start ballasts are said to blacken the ends of the bulb over time, particularly instant start.

Ballasts like the Advance Centiums are designed for the T5HO spec so they have a BF of 1.0 and are also programmed rapid start ballasts all for $30-$40. It doesn't make too much sense to cut corners here when bulbs are $20+ a pop. Instead of over-driving the bulbs you'd be better off adding two more bulbs, rather than having to switch all of your other bulbs out more often, deal with hotter running bulbs, and the shift in color spectrum. 54W and lower bulbs you can run two bulbs on one ballasts so even with reflectors & bulbs it's not long before you're back ahead money wise, and from what I've gathered 80W bulbs take to over-driving the worst.

On 1000 bulbs I seen some ballast upwards of $180. If this is a good ballast what is the diffrence in the price jump from $30 to $180?

 

[oreo57]

what is the difference in the price jump from $30 to $180?

Depends if they sell them to people that "make" money i.e commercial (with at times have more money than sense).. Or us..

 

[uncleof6]

Depends if they sell them to people that "make" money i.e commercial (with at times have more money than sense).. Or us..

No, that is seldom, if ever, the case from a retailer such as 1000 bulbs, or Home Depot. An electrical supplier will have a "sliding" scale which will include retail/taxable, wholesale/taxable, wholesale/non-taxable, and bulk/taxable and non-taxable.

I think you have the who "have more money than sense" a bit backwards.

The OP asked a rather non-specific question, what ballasts? Hold them a bit closer to the screen, they are hard to see from here...

 

[oreo57]

No, that is seldom, if ever, the case from a retailer such as 1000 bulbs, or Home Depot. An electrical supplier will have a "sliding" scale which will include retail/taxable, wholesale/taxable, wholesale/non-taxable, and bulk/taxable and non-taxable.

I think you have the who "have more money than sense" a bit backwards.

The OP asked a rather non-specific question, what ballasts? Hold them a bit closer to the screen, they are hard to see from here...

Really?? Boss just put in some LED track light w/ 7W heads (3-3W 3500K diodes).. at $150/pop..
Who has more money than sense???

Sorry this is all for fun..and for when I'm shopping a Grainger catalog for solenoids (or Ballasts) and such..

Technically it seems the big difference is caused by "cold start".. The lower temp it works at.. the more expensive it is..Can't see a need for a -20 degree ballast here..

Not being too familiar w/ ballast nuts and bolts I instinctively don't see a 2x cost factor as legitimate (based strictly on components) for a 20 degree difference in effective start temp (0 vs -20)

could be way wrong:
https://www.1000bulbs.com/search?ca...vance&sel[Brand][0]=Advance&sort=price_a&so=0

 

[Kyuss]

On 1000 bulbs I seen some ballast upwards of $180. If this is a good ballast what is the diffrence in the price jump from $30 to $180?

Which ones?

The only F54T5 ballast I see at that price is Advances dimming ballast. There's a couple around the $80 mark that are for 4 lamps, or for 480V. There's one oddball "2-4" lamp Fullham ballast at about $50, but I've always heard they're unreliable.

 

[uncleof6]

Specifically looking at the Centiums, the price difference is reflected by the number of lamps more so than the start temp. 2-lamp ~ $40, 4-lamp around $80. Makes perfect sense, without trying to read a great deal more into it. Comparing to other brands, Advance is considered to be at the top of the heap, and the most reliable. They are going to cost more. Why, because they can charge what they want to. Fulhams are at the bottom of the pile, being the least reliable. Anything that costs less than a Fulham is not worth considering. You get what you pay for.

An Advance Centium ICN-2S54-T costs around $40. It is a (2) Lamp - F54T5/HO 120/277volt ballast. It has a start temp of 0°F.

An Advance Mark 7 0 - 10v IZT2S54D35M costs around $180. It is a (2) Lamp - F54T5/HO 120/277volt ballast. It has a start temp of 50°F! Why so much? It is a dimmable ballast.

You cannot compare apples and oranges.

You may be right about your boss, I will let him know the next time I see him...

 

[oreo57]

You may be right about your boss, I will let him know the next time I see him...

Tattle tale.... Besides he is already aware..The experts were wrong, not enough output besides..
Of course he could have just asked me and saved the redo..

 

[banthonyb71]

The OP asked a rather non-specific question, what ballasts? Hold them a bit closer to the screen, they are hard to see from here...

Which ballasts have we been discussing? + what ballast on 1000 bulbs cost $180 = answer to your question. I dont know. I didnt think it was that broad of a question. pretty easy for a guy like you to figure out.... if he really felt like it. but it looks like you answered the question afterall. Thank You..

 

[banthonyb71]

Which ones?

The only F54T5 ballast I see at that price is Advances dimming ballast. There's a couple around the $80 mark that are for 4 lamps, or for 480V. There's one oddball "2-4" lamp Fullham ballast at about $50, but I've always heard they're unreliable.

I've been trying to decide what to do. I was thinking I wanted to be able to dim the t5's but I think I finally made my mind. I wanna do a Hybrid fixture. So I think Ill go with the t5's you guys have suggested as I believe you've pretty much confirmed these are the best "non"dimmable ballasts out there.