UV Sterilizer

That is absolute garbage and a complete waste. Don't bother. Emperor makes good UV's but they are now owned by Pentaire and their support is worthless. Nobody there knows a darn thing about marine aquariums and if you needed sound advice from them, you would be misinformed. They also have a very limited distribution channel which means parts are harder to find and cost much more.

I strongly suggest AquaUV. They are the industry standard and the best. They also manufacturer their own bulbs and if you call there, you can always reach a well informed support person. Their parts are widely distributed unlike EA meaning you can always get AquaUV bulbs and parts from a wide range of resellers. Their bubls also last longer than the competitors and you get a UV filter that provides great contact time with higher flow rates. I use an AquaUV 114 watt UV for my 480g display with a 700 gallon overall volume.
For your size setup I would suggest the AquaUV Classic 57 watt. I change my bulbs once a year as recommended. You can usually find good pricing on them through Pond dealers if you are looking to save some money.

http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic/57watt
 
Wowza, 800.00, and for 600g? Is there anything smaller and cheaper I can use?

The 600g is the maximum theatrical size, which doesn't mean much. What you want to look at is the manufacturer recommended flow rate. The recommend flow rate is 450g per hour, that is in the lab with clean water and equipment. In practice, you want lower rate than that. I run mine with a dedicated Sicce 1.5 at approximately 320g per hour. Total water volume is about 340g. So, 1x turn over per hour.
 
That is absolute garbage and a complete waste. Don't bother. Emperor makes good UV's but they are now owned by Pentaire and their support is worthless. Nobody there knows a darn thing about marine aquariums and if you needed sound advice from them, you would be misinformed. They also have a very limited distribution channel which means parts are harder to find and cost much more.


http://www.aquaultraviolet.com/products/uvsterilizers/classic/57watt

That is a shame. Before I bought, I called with technical questions. The questions were forwarded to the engineering department, and I got a call from an engineer a day later. I talked with an engineer for almost 30 min. He was very knowledgeable, answered all of my questions, and took time explain to me many things.
 
The 600g is the maximum theatrical size, which doesn't mean much. What you want to look at is the manufacturer recommended flow rate. The recommend flow rate is 450g per hour, that is in the lab with clean water and equipment. In practice, you want lower rate than that. I run mine with a dedicated Sicce 1.5 at approximately 320g per hour. Total water volume is about 340g. So, 1x turn over per hour.
I think that's the flow rate for green water, actually. 400 is what I run mine at.
 
Also one other thing, I am running a BRS dual reactor, GFO in one side and carbon in the other. I saw on one of the BRS week 14 TV shows that using carbon will help cut down on the size of the UV lamp. Your thoughts on this?
 
That is absolute garbage and a complete waste. Don't bother. Emperor makes good UV's but they are now owned by Pentaire and their support is worthless. Nobody there knows a darn thing about marine aquariums and if you needed sound advice from them, you would be misinformed. They also have a very limited distribution channel which means parts are harder to find and cost much more.
I didn't realize I was so screwed!:lol:

Bulbs and o-rings are sold at bulkreef supply. Not exactly a boutique shop.
 
And in regards to re-plumbing, I didn't realize I can just use a separate pump for the UV, I for whatever reason thought I had to T it off and use a valve to control flow. But like you guys said I can just get a pump rated for it.
 
And in regards to re-plumbing, I didn't realize I can just use a separate pump for the UV, I for whatever reason thought I had to T it off and use a valve to control flow. But like you guys said I can just get a pump rated for it.

You can, but directly plumbed in front of your skimmer is best. Organics break down and have a chance to be skimmed out immediately.
 
The 600g is the maximum theatrical size, which doesn't mean much. What you want to look at is the manufacturer recommended flow rate. The recommend flow rate is 450g per hour, that is in the lab with clean water and equipment./QUOTE]

And that is the issue with EA! That is over 180,000 µw/cm2 which is NOT an appropriate sterilization rate for a marine aquarium. That rate is a sterilization rate for "green water"/ponds which is what pretty much all of their research is based on. That is WAY too slow of a rate for a reef tank and for a UV that size, the flow should be at least double for a reef. 90,000 µw/cm2 is the higher sterilization rate that is safe for a reef and even at that, there will be an impact on pod life but at the rates EA is suggesting, Pods and other life will be killed when passing through the filter.
 
The 600g is the maximum theatrical size, which doesn't mean much. What you want to look at is the manufacturer recommended flow rate. The recommend flow rate is 450g per hour, that is in the lab with clean water and equipment./QUOTE]

And that is the issue with EA! That is over 180,000 µw/cm2 which is NOT an appropriate sterilization rate for a marine aquarium. That rate is a sterilization rate for "green water"/ponds which is what pretty much all of their research is based on. That is WAY too slow of a rate for a reef tank and for a UV that size, the flow should be at least double for a reef. 90,000 µw/cm2 is the higher sterilization rate that is safe for a reef and even at that, there will be an impact on pod life but at the rates EA is suggesting, Pods and other life will be killed when passing through the filter.


Interesting, I need to read more on that.

Very quick look online at AquaUV 115W. The manufacturer suggested flow rate is 1300g per hour for 90,000 uw/cm2, and 700g per hour for salt water tank. That means the manufacturer suggest to run it at 180,000 uw/cm2 for salt water tank - same as Emperor Aquatic. I don't know whether they consider salt water tank fish only or reef.
 
Interesting, I need to read more on that.

Very quick look online at AquaUV 115W. The manufacturer suggested flow rate is 1300g per hour for 90,000 uw/cm2, and 700g per hour for salt water tank. That means the manufacturer suggest to run it at 180,000 uw/cm2 for salt water tank - same as Emperor Aquatic. I don't know whether they consider salt water tank fish only or reef.

Not sure if I am misunderstanding your reply. AquaUV recommends 1300 GPH at 90,000 µw/cm2 (max sterilization rate) for salt water. Not 180,000 µw/cm2 (EOL). The 114 watt is rated for up to a 700 gallon system. EA's recommendations for all their UV's are all at 180,000 µw/cm2 which is a typical green water sterilization rate which is where most of EA's testing was done. I've never seen any white papers or supporting documentation from them on marine aquariums. 180,000 µw/cm2 not a typical marine sterilization rate and while it's an OK rate for a pond, it's not needed at those rates either in pond applications. Also, I wouldn't run a UV filter on a reef at 90,000 µw/cm2 full time. In a fish only system, sure. I prefer someplace closer to 60,000 as it has virtually no impact on pods or other micro life in our reefs. Granted 90,000 will have little impact on plankton or micro life in our reefs too but it still will have some impact.

Reality is that UV's have little impact on ich in our aquariums since they will never come in contact with all the free floating parasites. As such, one has to look at why we use UV's in a reef to begin with. My position based on experience is that when used properly, they do wonders for water clarity. They reduce algae growth by oxidizing water born algae. They reduce cyano bacteria and eliminate bacterial blooms. They can reduce the spread or slow down the spread of ich and other parasites that are in the water column but that really isn't why I use them because the impact a UV will have on that is negligible. Especially in the midst of an outbreak. That said, I am a firm believer in running UV's on marine aquariums including reefs. I've been using them for well over 20 years. I can tell when it's time to change my bulbs just by changes in the algae growth and or the presence of cyano in my system as well as water clarity.
 
I got the information from http://www.marinedepot.com/Aqua_UV_...quariums-Aqua_Ultraviolet-AV2351-FIUV-vi.html

After I read it more carefully, you are right. From the bottom of the page, I thought it said 700g per hour for salt water tank. Odd place to add this piece of information right next to the flow rate chart.

I agree with you that UV, when used properly, is very beneficial. Also, the right dose can kill almost anything including ich, but a very large UV will be needed.
 
I agree with you that UV, when used properly, is very beneficial. Also, the right dose can kill almost anything including ich, but a very large UV will be needed.

Problem with using a UV for ich is that you can never kill all the parasites. Most of them fall into the substrate as opposed to remaining in the water column. Once in the substrate, they will remain there until they are ready to host again and once in the water column, they will find a host long before they all make it into the UV. You may be able to reduce the population in the water column but the UV sterilizer will never eradicate them and the ich issue will inevitably persist. Thus the reason why most of us agree that a UV sterilizer is not the answer to an ich issue and will not prevent an outbreak either. That said, if a UV sterilizer is setup between two tanks, it can be useful in preventing the spread from one tank to the next if the flow rates are low enough.
 
Back
Top