UV Sterilizer?

A

almiller9

Member
I am looking into a UV Sterilizer to help with parasites etc in my 220 reef. What size/brand would anyone recommend? I have read that to use as sterilization you need to pass 100% return water though it. That would be something like 1200gph for me.

Thanks!
Andrew
 
AquaUV is an outstanding (albeit expensive) brand. I have been using the Coralife Turbo Twist sterilizers with good success in my aquariums. Whichever UV you buy, stick with the suggested flow rate for the organisms you want to kill. Bacteria are much easier and require less time/intensity than do parasites, for example. I would not want to run 1200 gph through anything but an industrial sterilizer. You should think about T-ing off the return into a manifold or something like that.
 
I should have added that it is a dual return. So more like 600gph each and honestly I could even slow it down a bit.

I've read I will want a minimum flow equal to system volume. Seem about right?
 
ComforablyNumb said:
Waste of money imo....unless you have a green water problem. Won't do a thing against parasites.
Click to expand...


That isn't exactly true though it's impact isn't great when it comes to parasite control. It can reduce the spread of parasites in their waterborne or free floating stage if properly set up with appropriate flow rates but will never eliminate them. The problem with parasites such as ich is that they host on the fish and are only in the water column for a very short amount of time. They wind up in the substrate before finding a new host. As such, a UV will never eliminate the parasite.

As for being useless, I will disagree with you there. A quality UV that is properly setup will improve water quality. Not only clairity but also the ORP. UV rays will oxidize organics rendering the water clearer and cleaner. Some people use ozone for similar benefits. It will also reduce the spread of cyano bacteria, prevent bacterial blooms and virtualy eliminate algae from the water column.

I use AquaUV and have for many many years. I run a 114 watt unit on my main display. A few weeks ago, I noticed my ORP had dropped nearly 100 points virtually overnight. My display is 480 gallons and has over 60 heavily fed fish. It's a very high nutrient reef. After a little investigating, I realized my UV sterilizer bulbs were dead. I normally replace them ever year but screwed up and had gone over 1.5 years. I replaced the bulbs and within a week, my ORP was back to it's usual 380+ ORP. I have both Apex and Profilux on my system and tracked the results across both probes. My Apex probe was replaced about 2 months ago. With an understanding of ORP, regardless of how important one may think it is, it is about the only measurement we have of water quality and the difference between 275 and 380 is significant in terms of water quality when it comes to ORP. That said, if you're going to get UV, get a quality one that is properly sized and setup with proper flow. Otherwise, it absolutely is a waste of money.

As for results, these graphs speak for themselves. This graph is what prompted me to investigate and this is what led me to realizing my bulbs were out. And yes, it's a big sudden drop but given the fish population in my tank as well as my feeding habits, UV sterilization plays an important part in my systems water quality. Even more important that I realized.
IMG_3136_zpsexanb5sz.png



It took me about a week to get the new bulbs. This is the result from earlier this month. The ORP began climbing immediately after the bulb swap. Within a week of changing my two bulbs, my ORP went from a low of 275 back to it's normal range and is now peaking at around 390. No ozone on my system. upwards of 70 fish, fed 3x a day with an overfeeding at night.
IMG_4951_zpscnjq2g8y.png


And today.
IMG_4953_zps5cyqcykw.png
 
For eliminating transfer of parasites from one system to the other yes, 100% water treatment would be required.

In your instance they are already in the tank so no, filtering 100% isn't necessary. Go with a high end unit such as an aquauv and flow the right amount through it as necessary to kill what you are trying to kill. They will never eliminate a parasite from your display but they can help control free swimming stages.
 
I stand by my comment. UV is totally unnecessary in a well run tank. ORP may go up and down but max orp does not guarantee anything. My water is perfectly clear without UV.
It does not eradicate parasites and that was the main reason the OP wanted one.

Just warning him its not worth the cost and effort, if that was his goal.
 
I would not run a tank without one. My tank is Crystal clear. Do you need one to run a tank, not really but if you do get a good one.
 
I would not run a set up without one either. Although it may not eradicate ich and other parasite completely, I truly believe that it reduces the chance of an outbreak dramatically.
I'm using the Pentair Aquatic(Emperor Aquatic) high output UV. It's a beast and takes some room. Properly matching the size of the UV and your set up with the recommended flow will benefit your system.
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/emperor-aquatics-smart-high-output-uv-80-watt.html
 
I don't use it to kill parasite however I use it to kill algae and make my tank almost see through clear. Sometime after a good clean of the Acrylic Its do clear i don't see the Acrylic panel just fish and corals floating in front of me


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
UV sterilizer.
Replies
2
Views
656
Batman222b
B
S
Novice Aquarist - Sump & Equipment Questions
Replies
9
Views
385
wvned
wvned
S
WTB: 100 gallon tank
Replies
0
Views
581
Solais
S
Q
Which mini snail for artemia tank?
Replies
2
Views
199
griss
griss
T
I'm confused...
Replies
12
Views
636
wvned
wvned
Back
Top