Vertex Pro Bio Pellets

I believe it depends on the reactor but i set up mine last night and it seems to be tumbling really well.
250 ml in a tlf reactor with a maxijet 1200 at full blast.
 
I doubt that the reactor brand matters much at all, just be sure that:

1) The reactor can hold the appropriate amount of media
2) You have an appropriate pump

Some reactors might do a bit better job of spreading the flow, or last longer, or are easier to clean, but I haven't seen many posts on those issues.
 
I began this journey about 2 weeeks ago and I'm starting to see some changes. I was running GFO and it came time to refill and decided to try this.

* Haven't had to scrape the glass in 4 days. Prior: every day.
* My candy cane looked kinda sick for 3 or so days, but now appears to be recovering. All other corals (SPS, LPS and zoas) look good.
* Skimmer has begun to really produce and it stinks badddddd (imagine outhouse on a fla august afternooon).

Prior to starting, po4 and no3 where both measuring undetectable on the kits (elos and api). I haven't seen any change in PH. I have a 75 dt + 30 sump. I'm doing 5g wcs weekly. I have about 200-250ml in my reactor.

I do have a few little tufts of HA and they don't show any change as of yet.

I'm watching the HA to see if it starts to receed.

UPDATE - All coral appear to be happy. NO3 and PO4 are os on my kits. Ph is around 8.2. I still have a couple tufts of that does not seem to be going anywhere. Might even be growing. I have noticed I do not need to clean the glass as often now. That's about the only real difference I've noticed so far.
 
Joined the pioneers group of Vertex users last Saturday.
Used about 250 ml in a ViaAqua 20/20 reactor fed directly from sump return. Pellets are tumbling gently. Started with undetectable PO4 and about 1 ppm NO3 (Elos tests for both). No changes so far on pH or ORP. Skimmer seems to slow down a bit and the foam is more dense (so it looks to me).
I will keep posting development. I truly hope 0 ppm NO3.:fun4:

Tank: 60g cube with 29g sump; app. 75g of water.

cheers,
Marian

Quick update: 20 days after and no significant changes. ORP, pH at same levels as before, NO3 still around 1 ppm (Elos test). Everything doing fine, didn't have to clean the glass for about a week :bounce3:
I sense some improvements on water quality, but hard to quantify.
Only negative: I have a huge Kenny tree that is laying flat, but it did it before time by time so I don't know if I have to related to bio-pellets addition.
I will keep you guys posted with further development.

cheers,
Marian
 
My tank has cyno outbreak now. I had used RedSlime before to remove them with great result. And I think the bio pellets is re-fuelling the out break. Should I stop the bio-pellet reactor, dose the Redslime remove, and once the cynos are gone, turn back the reactor?
 
The Bio-Pellets might help fuel the cyanobacteria, but I wouldn't expect that to be the major problem in most setups. Most tanks that are dosed with the various red slime removers have a recurrence of the cyanobacteria, because there's an underlying nutrient problem. I would look into feeding less or perhaps better skimming, personally, before removing the pellets.
 
my feeding routine has been the same before I added the bio pellet reactor and at the time I had GFO running and my tank was cyno free for months. Now that I removed the GFO in order to run these pellets, cyno was instantly there in the first week.
 
I'm seeing cyno too. Seems to be getting worse as time goes on. I'm in week 4 now. I've also noticed the few tufts of algae I have are not dying back at all. I'm going to give this about 2-3 more weeks and if I don't see any improvement, I'm going back to GFO.
 
After two and a half months running 750ml of pellets in a Vertex UF15 reactor with plenty of flow I decided it was time to go back to traditional carbon dosing as the results I observed with SCD did not match the claims of the product.

First thing I noticed was the severe bleaching of my toad stool leather, it went from red-ish brown to white in about a week and never recovered. PH levels also dropped from 8.0 – 8.2 to 7.8 - 8.1 and Phosphates and Nitrates climbed steadily forcing me to add GFO to keep the PO4 within reasonable levels.

Personally, I’m not sold on SCD. If it works for you then great but I would advise against dropping $200 plus to maybe get results when traditional CD has a proven track record and is much more cost effective.

Cheers!

-TDF
 
After two and a half months running 750ml of pellets in a Vertex UF15 reactor with plenty of flow I decided it was time to go back to traditional carbon dosing as the results I observed with SCD did not match the claims of the product.

First thing I noticed was the severe bleaching of my toad stool leather, it went from red-ish brown to white in about a week and never recovered. PH levels also dropped from 8.0 "“ 8.2 to 7.8 - 8.1 and Phosphates and Nitrates climbed steadily forcing me to add GFO to keep the PO4 within reasonable levels.

Personally, I'm not sold on SCD. If it works for you then great but I would advise against dropping $200 plus to maybe get results when traditional CD has a proven track record and is much more cost effective.

Cheers!

-TDF

There is a similar sentiment shared on the NP Biopellets thread. Works for some people not for others.
 
TheDogFather, after a month of running 400ml of these pellets on my 200gal mixed reef I just took them out to go back to GFO in hopes that my toadstool, sinularia and kenya tree (okay I dont actually care about that one) will recover from bleaching. Aside from them turning pure white the rest of the tank seemed to do fine with little or no change except for an increase in skimmer production. Prior to starting both phosphate and nitrate were undetectable with my elos kits and they continued to be undetectable throughout the month long trial.
 
For those of you interested in AlgaeFix vs. Biopellets, I just got this reply from the company:

Roy Algaefix used as directed in a saltwater or freshwater system will not harm the growth of your biological filter or any other bacteria in the aquarium. If you have any other questions or wish to discuss this further, please email back or give us a call at 1-800-847-0659.
Best Regards,
Nathan Fekula
Technical Service and Research
Mars Fishcare

50 EAST HAMILTON ST
PO BOX 218
CHALFONT, PA 18914-0218

E+nfekula@AQUARIUMPHARM.COM


www.marsfishcare.com

Again I used the product as directed (1mL per 10gallons every 3 days until algae gone, then 1mL per 10gallons with each water change...for me that's 20mL per dose), and all is well.

R
 
Quick update: 20 days after and no significant changes. ORP, pH at same levels as before, NO3 still around 1 ppm (Elos test). Everything doing fine, didn't have to clean the glass for about a week :bounce3:
I sense some improvements on water quality, but hard to quantify.
Only negative: I have a huge Kenny tree that is laying flat, but it did it before time by time so I don't know if I have to related to bio-pellets addition.
I will keep you guys posted with further development.

cheers,
Marian

... 30 days tomorrow and some progress. NO3 per Elos kit around 1 ppm. My Kenya tree is coming back.
 

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I purchase two of these reactors for 37 bucks a piece http://www.championlighting.com/product.php?productid=19259&cat=1036&page=2 , which is great because it comes with a pump and the pump tumbles it. I plan on splitting my 1 liter of it into the two of them, but I am only using half of the beads currently to prevent it from shocking the corals or fish.

I havent had to clean my glass since I put the beads on, the water is clear, and my skimmate is extremely dark flirting in between the lines of black and hazlenut color. I havent even started the full amount and I am happy with it.

JT
 
Anybody getting cyano? Regular burgundy red color or dark almost black colored cyano? My N&P is finally undetectable after almost 2months now. Just noticed the cyano in a couple spots on the sandbed. Is this normal?
 
Perhaps the bacterias are related as a lot of people have commented that? Hopefully someone with more scientific background with jump in here.

JT
 
UPDATE - All coral appear to be happy. NO3 and PO4 are os on my kits. Ph is around 8.2. I still have a couple tufts of that does not seem to be going anywhere. Might even be growing. I have noticed I do not need to clean the glass as often now. That's about the only real difference I've noticed so far.

UPDATE - Still have 0's on NO3 + PO4. Still getting a little cyano on the glass if I don't clean it after 3 days. Ph hanging out at 8.2. The few tufts of algae appear to be growing. I pulled some by hand and it felt like it had a good grip on the rock it is on. I'm beggining to suspect the rock of having locked up Phosphates (I got from another reefer).

All coral seems to be happy, although some zoa growth seems to have slowed.

GFO goes back online tomorrow. I'll buy another reactor and run them together.
 
Is anyone out there using the BRS Jumbo reactor? I saw it at MACNA and it may actually be large enough for my system. If anyone is using it, could you please tell me what volume it can hold.

Thanks.
 
... 30 days tomorrow and some progress. NO3 per Elos kit around 1 ppm. My Kenya tree is coming back.

... almost 40 days and out they go !
I am sorry guys, but I don't think this product works as intended. I had a hammer for almost a year and it was doing very well till recently when I lost two heads a week apart. Not good.
I am back to vodka dosing and GFO. For me this was a good combination till I started experimenting with these bio-pellets. Intent was to go to 0 ppm on NO3 from a level of 1-2.5 ppm on an Elos test. It didn't happen. So, be it ! Another lesson learn and from now on will stick to the classics. No more experiments.

good luck,
MaLi
 
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