Warner Marine Now Has A Pellet Product

People are saying to remove the sponges in the reactors and replace with a screen material. Somewhere I read to use a kniting backing or something like that. Could you just cut a piece of window screen, the fiberglass type? I have a roll of that sitting in my basement.
 
People are saying to remove the sponges in the reactors and replace with a screen material. Somewhere I read to use a kniting backing or something like that. Could you just cut a piece of window screen, the fiberglass type? I have a roll of that sitting in my basement.

The product I used was called 'QuickShape plastic canvas'. It is the same thing used earlier in the thread and was like $1.25 for (10) 4" rounds. The problem with window screen is that it isn't really stiff enough to wedge in to the reactor ends. The plastic canvas is stiff and can be cut just oversized so that it holds its place and won't move.

Here is a similar product, though you can find it at any craft store.
http://www.bjcraftsupplies.com/plasticCanvas/images/circle337815.jpg
 
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How soon following addition of Ecobak should I lower my alk? And, how fast should I take it down.

I've been on the ecobak for just a couple of days, and I backed off of my calkwasser concentration a bit. But, I would like to get an idea of how soon I need to really worry about having it down in the 7-8 range....currently at about 9.5-10
 
The product I used was called 'QuickShape plastic canvas'. It is the same thing used earlier in the thread and was like $1.25 for (10) 4" rounds. The problem with window screen is that it isn't really stiff enough to wedge in to the reactor ends. The plastic canvas is stiff and can be cut just oversized so that it holds its place and won't move.

Here is a similar product, though you can find it at any craft store.
http://www.bjcraftsupplies.com/plasticCanvas/images/circle337815.jpg

Thanks. I was able to find the 3" diameter ones for $1.99 at AC Moore.
 
Lowering Alk

Lowering Alk

How soon following addition of Ecobak should I lower my alk? And, how fast should I take it down.

I've been on the ecobak for just a couple of days, and I backed off of my calkwasser concentration a bit. But, I would like to get an idea of how soon I need to really worry about having it down in the 7-8 range....currently at about 9.5-10

Why do you want to lower you Alk? Especially as low as 7 DKH Just curoius?
Bill:dance:
 
Has anybody checked on this yet? I've been using my Phosban 150 (screw-on cap) for about 1-1/2 years with no problems, so this is what I would use. Just need to know if it will hold the needed 500 ml.

I'm going back and forth between this and starting vodka dosing. The GFO alone is starting to loose the battle, so I'm leaning towards one of these now. I can get the vodka fairly cheap and dose this to see if this does the trick. If it does, I assume that I can switch to the pellets. But if my reactor doesn't hold the needed 500 ml, then I may have to stay with vodka.

Just threw in 500 mL of Ecobak in a Phosban reactor ... It fits fine with room to spare. Looks like you might be able to fit a full 1L but it'd be tight.
 
Why do you want to lower you Alk? Especially as low as 7 DKH Just curoius?
Bill:dance:

Some people have reported coral bleaching when operating a low-nutrient system (ie carbon dosing) with high(er) alkalinity. I've not seen any mechanism proposed for this occurrence, though.
 
I was wondering the same thing Yogre. Thanks, I read quite a bit in the Vodka thread, and must have never seen it mentioned. I never lowered it when vodka dosing for 8 months, and I had not heard anything about it in regard to solid carbon dosing. The corals never bleached before, so I don't plan on arbitrarily messing with my Alk. Sounds like a recipe for disaster honestly.
 
I was wondering the same thing Yogre. Thanks, I read quite a bit in the Vodka thread, and must have never seen it mentioned. I never lowered it when vodka dosing for 8 months, and I had not heard anything about it in regard to solid carbon dosing. The corals never bleached before, so I don't plan on arbitrarily messing with my Alk. Sounds like a recipe for disaster honestly.

Interesting, maybe I should just leave it be. I have read quite a few threads that mention people having problems with carbon dosing and alk above 7.

Does anyone else have an opinion? What do others keep their alk at while using ecobak/BP?
 
How soon following addition of Ecobak should I lower my alk? And, how fast should I take it down.

I've been on the ecobak for just a couple of days, and I backed off of my calkwasser concentration a bit. But, I would like to get an idea of how soon I need to really worry about having it down in the 7-8 range....currently at about 9.5-10

Speed is bad, lower slowly over many days and even weeks. Do something loke back off calk 10% every 3 days.
 
Some people have reported coral bleaching when operating a low-nutrient system (ie carbon dosing) with high(er) alkalinity. I've not seen any mechanism proposed for this occurrence, though.

The bleaching is caused by too fast of change in KH. (assuming all other #s are in line) (I just killed some sps going up too fast on KH, broke one of the basic rules of dosing)

Colors seem to come out better with lower KH numbers, look at last months TOM or ZOE tanks.
 
yeah, I thought the lower alk recommendation had originally stemmed from Zeo (ULN systems), no? Not sure if it applies to solid carbon dosing.
 
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I have been Vodka Dosing for many years and never lowered my KH to accomodate adding any carbon source, And I agree that it's a receipe for diaster that's not necessary to do.JMO
Bill
 
I have been Vodka Dosing for many years and never lowered my KH to accomodate adding any carbon source, And I agree that it's a receipe for diaster that's not necessary to do.JMO
Bill

I didn't say KH being increased too fast had anything to do with Carbon dosing. I believe changing anything in reef to fast may shock animals.

:thumbsup:
 
How soon following addition of Ecobak should I lower my alk? And, how fast should I take it down.

I've been on the ecobak for just a couple of days, and I backed off of my calkwasser concentration a bit. But, I would like to get an idea of how soon I need to really worry about having it down in the 7-8 range....currently at about 9.5-10

Burnt tips from too high of Alk with liquid carbon dosing is common. However, nobody knows the mechanisim behind it. Some theories, but nobody knows.

With solid carbon sources it is anyones guess. So far nobody seems to have any issues with burnt tips and high alk, and there is no reason to belive that using solid carbon in a reactor vs. liquid carbon in the tank would be the same.

While plenty of people love to push high Ca/Alk/Mg numbers to drive growth.... most of the old timers and those that have been in this hobby for a long time seem to see more problems with abnormal high number than benefits. Seems that more conservative numbers are much more reasonable. That's my opinion based on reading other opinions. Seems more room for error being in the middle. So I have always tried to stay in the middle... Ca 420, Alk 9. Still higher than natural sea water values.

I saw no problems with my Alk at 8.6-9 with Eco Bak.
 
Here are a few pics from the beginning of using EB.

Right side end. I am leaving this HA to gauge the effect.

feb10002.jpg


Right hand front.

IMG_4721.jpg


Left end front. No algae on this half of the tank. Go figure.

IMG_4718.jpg


Sump. This was before I cleaned it out. I didn't want a whole bunch of algae dieing and releasing everything back into the water column.

IMG_4706.jpg


This is after cleaning out wads of HA and a football sized chunk of infested chaeto. lol

IMG_4708.jpg


Again, both N&P test at 0 currently, but that is evidently due to the massive growth in the fuge. I had good luck with vodka after several months, but quit due to unhappy zoas. We'll see what happens with the EB...
 
The scientific studies have shown that as alk increases, so does the calcification rate forming the coral skeleton. In the studies performed there were no burnt tips when they increased the alk level up to around 25 dKH.

In other studies when one increases the calcium level up 100 ppm & higher above seawater (about 385 ppm calcium) this too will increase the calcification rate forming the coral skeleton. There were no burnt tips reported in this experiment.

Obviously, there seems to be other factors that come into play other then just increases in alk, since many hobbyists do not report problems when increasing their alk level by more then 2 dKH and by maintaining their alk level at the higher end of the recommended levels.

Other complications that are reported in scientific literature are that higher levels of dissolved organics will cause burnt tips in coral, especially when the simple sugars are increased above normal levels by smaller amounts.

One possible theory for burnt tips in coral with higher alk levels in low nutrient systems, may be that some hobbyists have reduced their nitrate and phosphate levels below those of natural seawater when dosing carbon sources. Natural sea water has a phosphate level of about 0.005 ppm and a nitrate level of below 0.1 ppm. At these levels hobbyists are guessing since the kits and hobby grade equipment do not work at these low end levels.

If you combine this information that higher alk levels increase skeletal growth and you have too low a levels of nitrate and phosphate, then the coral may not be able to keep up with tissue formation around the skeleton at the higher alk levels. Those hobbyists with a little bit higher nitrate and phosphate therefore may not see burnt tips since there is enough phosphate and nitrate to keep up with the increased rate of calcification at the higher alk levels.
 
Mine have been back on line for 2 weeks now. My algae bloom was just diotoms not cyano and is almost gone now. I'm excited to see what these can do long term. It will be great to ditch the gfo and my fuge. Although I don't know what i'll do with all the extra sump space?
-Bill
 
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