Warner Marine Now Has A Pellet Product

I'm planning to use the pellets tomorrow. A couple questions:

1. how many liters of WM EcoBAK for 200g water volume?

2. I'm planning to use them inside an i~Aquatic zeovit reactor. Any benefit/drawbacks to cleaning the pellets by spinning them?

3. What flow rate, strong tumble, light tumble or non at all.

4. I'm planning to use a mesh sock on the output to catch any debris. Any drawback with bacteria or mulm? It will be on the pellets, correct?

5. For seeding the pellets I'm planning to use ZEObak and a few drops of ZEOfood.

This is as I understand it from reading a bunch of threads (working on implementing):
1) Sorry no help on this one. I think other kings where 500-1000 ml per 100 gallons (of course it depends on how often you feed). From my reading I think it is better to start light and add until you are at the high end of the recommended dosage.
2) Don't think so as long as some of the mulm is kicked out
3) Medium tumble to dislodge some mulm
4) Skim all the output if you can. The skimmer will take out the mulm. Any not skimmed will hopefully be eaten by corals. What is not used ill get into the tank where there is not carbon (no food). So it dies and releases everything back into the tank.
5) I don' think you need to see, but probably can't hurt.
 
This is as I understand it from reading a bunch of threads (working on implementing):
1) Sorry no help on this one. I think other kings where 500-1000 ml per 100 gallons (of course it depends on how often you feed). From my reading I think it is better to start light and add until you are at the high end of the recommended dosage.
2) Don't think so as long as some of the mulm is kicked out
3) Medium tumble to dislodge some mulm
4) Skim all the output if you can. The skimmer will take out the mulm. Any not skimmed will hopefully be eaten by corals. What is not used ill get into the tank where there is not carbon (no food). So it dies and releases everything back into the tank.
5) I don' think you need to see, but probably can't hurt.

Actually 500ml per 100gal of water is correct,Gently tumbling is fine, No sponge/media It will clog up and restrick flow, There is nothing that will be released and die in your tank!, And lastly seeding is not needed, But it takes a couple of weeks Min to become active with bacteria.
Hope this helps to clear mis Information, You can go back and read the whole thread to learn more.
Bill:)
 
After of months of pruning,plucking, And weeding I finally got rid of BROIPHS by using WMP that i started running about a month ago not one strand left
:uzi::furious::inlove::celeb2::celeb3::spin2: :hmm3:

Glad to here this stuff can help kill bryposis off.....I should have mine some time this week.....Can't wait to get it started. Hopefully I get the same results, will be the first time since start up I would be bryposis free....excited!
 
I have a question.

Once this stuff gets broken in and you feed and maintain the same tank maintenance, shouldn't this stuff (after the initial break in period, to where you get a stable colony of bacteria) be effectively cleaning the tank to the point where you will start to see less skim produced from the skimmer?
 
poolkeeper, I have been reading a lot, but I am not a chemist. I am confused by your statement
There is nothing that will be released and die in your tank!
as I understand it bacteria are being created on the media and eating it. If this bacteria gets into the tank there is no more food for it to eat and it will die, decompose, and release its nutrients back into the tank. I actually thought this was the whole purpose release these bacteria and then skim them out of the system. I actually go some agreement from (on N/P reducing pellets (solid vodka dosing)):
Bacteria grows on the media and the jumbling in the strong current sloughs some of the bacteria off. Three things can happens to this sloughed off bacteria:
  • It can be eaten (coral, filter feeders)
  • It can be skimmed out
  • it can go into the main tank and decompose
The first two are good. The third is bad, IMHO. It will leave the carbon from it's structure around for cyano, green hair algae, and other 'bad things'. I also think that if way too much is released that it is what caused the cloudiness, ph drop, and lack of oxygen that has been reported.
I thought all these worked the same way (except for one which is a liquid - IO version IIRC) Could you please explain where I am misunderstanding?

basser, Are you willing to experiment? On the Instant Ocean Biopolymer Nitrate Reducer thread
Here are some sources for those wanting to experiment with a DIY:

http://www.shapelock.com/page2.html

http://www.sunshinecrafts.com/dept_view.php?DPath=JEWELRY~JWFP~JWFPPEL&Page=1

FWIW, I'm thinking on it. :D

I group from WAMAS actually ordered a polymer from china and seem to be having good results. I think there final price was about $30/kg. Hey can someone tell me how much 500ml weighs? I am going to try the friendly plastic and so far I can get it for $40/28oz ($45/kg).
 
poolkeeper, I have been reading a lot, but I am not a chemist. I am confused by your statement as I understand it bacteria are being created on the media and eating it. If this bacteria gets into the tank there is no more food for it to eat and it will die, decompose, and release its nutrients back into the tank. I actually thought this was the whole purpose release these bacteria and then skim them out of the system. I actually go some agreement from (on N/P reducing pellets (solid vodka dosing)):

I thought all these worked the same way (except for one which is a liquid - IO version IIRC) Could you please explain where I am misunderstanding?

basser, Are you willing to experiment? On the Instant Ocean Biopolymer Nitrate Reducer thread


I group from WAMAS actually ordered a polymer from china and seem to be having good results. I think there final price was about $30/kg. Hey can someone tell me how much 500ml weighs? I am going to try the friendly plastic and so far I can get it for $40/28oz ($45/kg).

As i understand it, The process works the same as Vodka dosing only It's localized to the reactor. What happens is the bacteria on the pellets start to consume No3/Po4 and the resulting waste product is removed by your skimmer, This is why it is vital to have a highly efficient skimmer when using this product. I'm also not a chemist but this is my understanding of how this works. I don't believe that it's been proven that this is actually kept only in the reactor as it seems to me there would be some leaching of this bacteria into the system it self, Although i have no way to prove that!

As this is all new and we have much to learn about how this will effect things long term and if it will keep No3/Po4 at low enough levels to use only this product to control them remains to be seen.

Trying to compare other brands (N+P Etc ) my not be good as they most likely are different type polymers and will not work exactly the same. As a long time Vodka doser I'm almost positive this product is just an easy way to add a carbon source long term with less work by us and that's fine with me.
Last but not least this is just my opinion and i could be wrong, But that's how i think it works:)
Bill:reading:
 
poolkeeper, Ok nit picking to keep the discussion going. You seem to contradict your self
there would be some leaching of this bacteria into the system it self
So in your opinion what happens to the leached bacteria?

I think all the pellets are the same idea after reading the threads. The exact make up of the polymer maybe different. And some may add fillers wheat and I think the other popular one was corn. But they are all trying to get "solid vodka" by supplying carbon.

The only odd one is the liquid one. And I am wondering i they just made really small pellets that dissolve faster (because they are small) and therefore has to be dosed more often (I read that as more money for them). The liquid maybe noting or a set of starter bacteria - no one has found much info on them.
 
Bill. why did you decide to go with the warner marine pellets?

Marty


I'm not a big fan of those Phosban 150"s, The BRS large reactor is IMO a better choice. Or a PM reactor, But I'm not sure It would fit the whole amount. I guess It's just a matter of preference, Those 150's are kinda junky.
Bill:uzi:
 
poolkeeper, Ok nit picking to keep the discussion going. You seem to contradict your self
So in your opinion what happens to the leached bacteria?

I would think it free floats in the system until it either consumes No3/Po4 or It is skimmed out by your skimmer. My basis for that is not proven as stated B4 but It just make sense to me that there would be some bacteria leaving the reactor. This in no way would be harmful RE Vodka dosing involves the whole system being flooded with basically the same carbon source. So if that's not harmful to a system than How could a small amount leaving the reactor be...
I in no way am trying to argue any point just state it as i believe it to be true
and i could be wrong LOL
Bill:beer:















I think all the pellets are the same idea after reading the threads. The exact make up of the polymer maybe different. And some may add fillers wheat and I think the other popular one was corn. But they are all trying to get "solid vodka" by supplying carbon.

The only odd one is the liquid one. And I am wondering i they just made really small pellets that dissolve faster (because they are small) and therefore has to be dosed more often (I read that as more money for them). The liquid maybe noting or a set of starter bacteria - no one has found much info on them.
 
I am not trying to argue either just carry one a discussion, but I was afraid pointing out the contradiction would sound nasty. I agree it is free floating, but the way I read (and understand - perhaps wrongly) is the bacteria can not consume the NO3/PO4 without carbon. So the bacteria does one of three things (eaten, skimmed, breaks down - as mentioned above). What are you basing the consumption of NO3/PO4 on? I don't think I saw anything on that.
 
I have a question.

Once this stuff gets broken in and you feed and maintain the same tank maintenance, shouldn't this stuff (after the initial break in period, to where you get a stable colony of bacteria) be effectively cleaning the tank to the point where you will start to see less skim produced from the skimmer?
The increased skimmate is thought to be organic material probably bacteria and by products of their activity . The bacteria will continue to proliferate as long as the organic carbon source is maintained and some nitrate and phosphate is in the water as is the case in a fed tank. They need organic carbon, nitrogen and phosphorous. If either PO4 or NO3 are truly zeroed out( very unlikely in most aquariums) then the extra organic carbon from the pellets or other sources would likely build up to harmful levels if it leaches in the water column.
 
tmz, to clarify for my understanding. If the is no free carbon what happens to the bacteria. You commented it does not proliferate - go that. But does it die and decay or does it just float around in a neutral state (this is assuming it never get skimmed or eaten).
 
I think all the pellets are the same idea after reading the threads. The exact make up of the polymer maybe different. And some may add fillers wheat and I think the other popular one was corn. But they are all trying to get "solid vodka" by supplying carbon.[/QUOTE said:
From what I have read, it seems the Warner Marine pellet seems to work the quickest. Some people have used the biopellets and had no success. I haven't seen any failures with the warner marine pellet

Marty
 
tmz, to clarify for my understanding. If the is no free carbon what happens to the bacteria. You commented it does not proliferate - go that. But does it die and decay or does it just float around in a neutral state (this is assuming it never get skimmed or eaten).
If the carbon input to the water column is constant, bacteria will reach a steady population, well, possible not very steady, but they won't grow in total mass on the average. Some bacteria die, some divide, but the final result is an approximate steady state.

If you could limit the free carbon input to the water column to zero, bacteria depending on that carbon would all die, but that can't be done in an aquarium.
 
From what I have read, it seems the Warner Marine pellet seems to work the quickest. Some people have used the biopellets and had no success. I haven't seen any failures with the warner marine pellet

Marty

I'm guessing that more people have used the biopellets than warner marine, therefore it follows that there would be more recorded failures..... I think it will be equivalent when the WM ones have been around long enough?!.

I don't think there can be that much difference between the various makes that failure rates will be varying significantly..... but who knows.


How did you work out which pellets work the quickest?....:spin2:




Mo
 
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I'm adding my hat in.

I emailed Jon at Warner because I could not get anyone one the phone. He sent me back an email and it said $60/L or $35 for 500ml. I picked up the 1L. Did not say anything about shipping charges so I just sent money as directed using paypal and am now awaiting the pellets.

I have a 70gallon aquarium with about 100lbs of live rock and a 35gallon sump, a SWC 160 cone skimmer. My bioload is 2 clowns, 2 firefish, 1 clown goby, 1 yellow watchman, 7 various shrimp, 20 snails, 4 hermits, 1 starfish.

I moved my mandarin over to a 30gallon pod factory because she was getting sick. I had been using algeafix to try to resolve the problem with my GHA.

I have a foxface, coral beauty, 6line as new arrivals in quarantine.
 
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