Wow that's fast. Did you have some sort of procedure, like dropping a certain amount on the quarter hours until you were done at one hour?
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- Thread starter Michael Hoaster
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Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
Nope - Saltwater out Freshwater in @ a close temp.
Had a customer with a Powder Blue in a 150 that got Ich a few times a year.
Had a customer with a Powder Blue in a 150 that got Ich a few times a year.
After looking at the new fish I'd say the tang is more like 3 inches and the fox face 5. Still looking good and eating too. The fox face is eating Caulerpa too!
Can't wait to get these guys in the display!
QT3
Can't wait to get these guys in the display!
QT3
Things to do
Before I add the new fish I should probably do a thing or two in the display. I want to prune back the seagrass. That will give the fish more room to roam. It's so thick now they can hardly move through it. A water change would be good too. I haven't done one in months. I did buy a new syphon thingy, so no excuses. What else? Hmm. Clean the glass! I'll want a clear view of everything, especially when I introduce them to the display.
I've been leaving the door open to their QTs so they get used to seeing us. They're still a bit shy, but they're getting bolder. The fox face can really camouflage itself well. I can look right at it and not see it!
QT4
Before I add the new fish I should probably do a thing or two in the display. I want to prune back the seagrass. That will give the fish more room to roam. It's so thick now they can hardly move through it. A water change would be good too. I haven't done one in months. I did buy a new syphon thingy, so no excuses. What else? Hmm. Clean the glass! I'll want a clear view of everything, especially when I introduce them to the display.
I've been leaving the door open to their QTs so they get used to seeing us. They're still a bit shy, but they're getting bolder. The fox face can really camouflage itself well. I can look right at it and not see it!
QT4
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
Michael,
I made a siphon that stops @ my selected water change parameter.
Left over from my maintenance days, it allows the worker to do another task without worry of water on the floor. If it's something you might be interested in --
Fabricate a hook from 1" pvc to hang over the rim of the tank.
The outside length should be longer than the inside with a hose barb on the end.
The inside should have a strainer set so the siphon breaks @ the desired water level for 15-20-25 gallons, whatever you decide. It's easier if you mark the tank so you know how deep to make it. Don't glue the last few under water fittings so you can raise or lower them for the final height. Just suck on the hose & let her rip into a sink, garbage can or even a toilet. THE most important thing is to secure the end of the hose so it stays put.
I made a siphon that stops @ my selected water change parameter.
Left over from my maintenance days, it allows the worker to do another task without worry of water on the floor. If it's something you might be interested in --
Fabricate a hook from 1" pvc to hang over the rim of the tank.
The outside length should be longer than the inside with a hose barb on the end.
The inside should have a strainer set so the siphon breaks @ the desired water level for 15-20-25 gallons, whatever you decide. It's easier if you mark the tank so you know how deep to make it. Don't glue the last few under water fittings so you can raise or lower them for the final height. Just suck on the hose & let her rip into a sink, garbage can or even a toilet. THE most important thing is to secure the end of the hose so it stays put.
Thanks for the tip Vinny! Pretty slick idea. Might come in handy!
I'm going to need to add more caulerpa to the fox face's tank, since he has nearly eaten all of the first batch.
QT5
I'm going to need to add more caulerpa to the fox face's tank, since he has nearly eaten all of the first batch.
QT5
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
I can post or send a picture if needed, just let me know.
Sure, a pic would add clarity. Post it!
I added a second rock to each QT to give them a little more cover. I think they like it, and seem bolder already. I also added more cualerpa to the fox face's tank. Fresh greens!
I added a second rock to each QT to give them a little more cover. I think they like it, and seem bolder already. I also added more cualerpa to the fox face's tank. Fresh greens!
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
Michael,
I forgot this is RC, never learned to post a pic here.
The other site is a snap.
I can send to an email if you like, just PM me.
Vinny
I forgot this is RC, never learned to post a pic here.
The other site is a snap.
I can send to an email if you like, just PM me.
Vinny
Vinny sent me the image of his water change thingy, and here it is!
Correct me if I'm wrong, Vinny, but I think the 'U' section hangs over the top of the tank, and the length of the pipe with the intake strainer determines the total number of gallons removed, until the syphon is broken. He said the spring clamp was also important, I'm guessing to secure the device at the preferred height to get the desired amount of water out, right?
Pretty smart, huh? Thanks for sharing, Vinny!
QT9 - New fish still looking good!
Correct me if I'm wrong, Vinny, but I think the 'U' section hangs over the top of the tank, and the length of the pipe with the intake strainer determines the total number of gallons removed, until the syphon is broken. He said the spring clamp was also important, I'm guessing to secure the device at the preferred height to get the desired amount of water out, right?
Pretty smart, huh? Thanks for sharing, Vinny!
QT9 - New fish still looking good!
Vinny Kreyling
Premium Member
1/2 right Michael.
The unit hangs over the rim with the strainer in the water. A hose attaches to the hose barb. Length determined by where it has to go for a drain. Everything is glued except
the fitting the strainer attaches to. It can move up or down slightly to tune the siphon break. Not shown is a red pen line for my particular position.
The clamp is used to secure the end of the hose from falling out of a sink or toilet & preventing a flood.
This is a 1" unit, as my old boss said " nothing moves water like a 1" hose". You can however make it from smaller piping.
The unit hangs over the rim with the strainer in the water. A hose attaches to the hose barb. Length determined by where it has to go for a drain. Everything is glued except
the fitting the strainer attaches to. It can move up or down slightly to tune the siphon break. Not shown is a red pen line for my particular position.
The clamp is used to secure the end of the hose from falling out of a sink or toilet & preventing a flood.
This is a 1" unit, as my old boss said " nothing moves water like a 1" hose". You can however make it from smaller piping.
Right on, thanks. Handiddlyinski!
Minorhero
New member
[MENTION=50841]Michael Hoaster[/MENTION]
This is a great thread! I'm going through it now for all the information you provide. I am planning to do a tank much like yours but with seahorses. You are one of the few active people I have found with first hand experience growing seagrass. Hopefully you don't mind a few questions.
Right now I am trying to figure out how much light I need and how much sand, plus what my clean up crew is going to look like.
I read you are using a 400w metal halide, any idea how much par that is at substrate? I read manatee grass needs somewhere around 200-300 par but it wasn't clear at what depth that was supposed to be, I'm assuming at substrate but figuring that out in advance would be great.
I've read manatee grass needs 6" of substrate, has that been your experience as well?
For clean up crew I am limited by the seahorses. Blue legged hermit crabs and emerald crabs are potentials though. I read you found a hermit crab or 2 in your grass and moved them. Did you ever live with them in the tank? I read your emerald crab ate your macros, but it wasn't clear if it ate any of the grass?
Right now I'm planning for a mix of manatee grass and shoal grass in the tank. I will be treating the tank much like a freshwater tank for dosing fertilizer using the pps-pro method and injecting co2 via a reactor. I have a lot of experience with freshwater tanks but zero with saltwater, so a lot of basics are an adventure for me ;P Since I won't be doing any corals I was planning to use tap water. Do you think that will be an issue for the grasses?
Thank you for any information!
This is a great thread! I'm going through it now for all the information you provide. I am planning to do a tank much like yours but with seahorses. You are one of the few active people I have found with first hand experience growing seagrass. Hopefully you don't mind a few questions.
Right now I am trying to figure out how much light I need and how much sand, plus what my clean up crew is going to look like.
I read you are using a 400w metal halide, any idea how much par that is at substrate? I read manatee grass needs somewhere around 200-300 par but it wasn't clear at what depth that was supposed to be, I'm assuming at substrate but figuring that out in advance would be great.
I've read manatee grass needs 6" of substrate, has that been your experience as well?
For clean up crew I am limited by the seahorses. Blue legged hermit crabs and emerald crabs are potentials though. I read you found a hermit crab or 2 in your grass and moved them. Did you ever live with them in the tank? I read your emerald crab ate your macros, but it wasn't clear if it ate any of the grass?
Right now I'm planning for a mix of manatee grass and shoal grass in the tank. I will be treating the tank much like a freshwater tank for dosing fertilizer using the pps-pro method and injecting co2 via a reactor. I have a lot of experience with freshwater tanks but zero with saltwater, so a lot of basics are an adventure for me ;P Since I won't be doing any corals I was planning to use tap water. Do you think that will be an issue for the grasses?
Thank you for any information!
vlangel
Premium Member
Wow Michael, in my hectic months of working I see that I sure have missed a lot! I am sorry that you were sick but happy to hear that you are on the mend.
So two new fish...that is exciting! I cannot wait to see them. I also like foxfaces but have never had one either. I think I remember that you had an Atlantic blue tang in V1, is that correct?
Tell the newcomers to please, please spare the sargassum, LOL!
So two new fish...that is exciting! I cannot wait to see them. I also like foxfaces but have never had one either. I think I remember that you had an Atlantic blue tang in V1, is that correct?
Tell the newcomers to please, please spare the sargassum, LOL!
Hey Minorhero and welcome! Glad you like the thread!
I like your idea of sea grasses and seahorses. I have to say though I think it will be a challenge. You said you are new to salt water. It's good to start with less difficult species to learn the skills and have some successes, before trying more difficult creatures.
Let's get into your questions. I never tested PAR, but considering the depths grasses inhabit, you'll need lighting on the brighter side - like lighting that would be considered bright reef lighting. If I were to test PAR, I'd test it at half depth to get an average for the length of the blades. My Manatee Grass has grown quite tall to reach brighter light. I'd agree a six inch substrate is good. You might be able to go a touch shallower if needed. I'm anti-hermit but that's just me. The emerald crab I tried ignored bubble algae, ate desirable macro algae and ignored the grasses.
I found fresh water planting methods worked great with grasses and macros. My concern would be combining fertilizers with seahorses. Dechlorinated tap water may be fine for the plants but probably not with seahorses. If you are serious about salt water, get a good RO/DI setup.
Good luck with your project!
I like your idea of sea grasses and seahorses. I have to say though I think it will be a challenge. You said you are new to salt water. It's good to start with less difficult species to learn the skills and have some successes, before trying more difficult creatures.
Let's get into your questions. I never tested PAR, but considering the depths grasses inhabit, you'll need lighting on the brighter side - like lighting that would be considered bright reef lighting. If I were to test PAR, I'd test it at half depth to get an average for the length of the blades. My Manatee Grass has grown quite tall to reach brighter light. I'd agree a six inch substrate is good. You might be able to go a touch shallower if needed. I'm anti-hermit but that's just me. The emerald crab I tried ignored bubble algae, ate desirable macro algae and ignored the grasses.
I found fresh water planting methods worked great with grasses and macros. My concern would be combining fertilizers with seahorses. Dechlorinated tap water may be fine for the plants but probably not with seahorses. If you are serious about salt water, get a good RO/DI setup.
Good luck with your project!
Hey Dawn, welcome back! I'm very excited about the two new fish! Yes, I had an Atlantic Blue tang before. This new one is a Pacific version. Can't wait to get them in the display!
QT14
QT14
Minorhero
New member
Thank your for the response! I am super excited for this project but information on the plants is very scarce. So getting some of these answers is absolutely priceless.
I get mixed responses when I tell people my first saltwater tank will be seahorses. They have a reputation for being very difficult (fairly earned) from historical keeping practices and especially the dwarf species. Modern keeping practices has made them a bit easier to keep. For one thing its super easy to get erectus as captive bred that are already eating frozen mysis. Additionally the old practice was to keep them in low flow but the modern thinking is to keep them in moderately high flow which helps with the rest of the tank as well. So the people in the seahorse groups tend to be very welcoming of first time saltwater folks while everyone else is like 'seahorses.... maybe reconsider?; ;P
I am not too worried about fertilizer with the seahorses either. If they are actually sensitive to it they will be the first animal I've heard of that is. Even the most sensitive freshwater species can be kept with liquid fertilizer and I personally keep aquatic newts in a freshwater planted tank with ferts administered once a week and the newts are thriving. Honestly I see a much bigger reaction to dechlorinator then to fertilizer with various species. This is not too surprising since the liquid fertilizer is just replicating what is in dirt and the amounts going in are tiny. But I will also be watching closely when the seahorses get added in and will take action if needed. It will be months after the tank is up and running before I add the seahorses. Really want to get the rhythm down of saltwater first when the stakes are lower.
The RO question is a bigger issue. Near as I can tell about 20% of seahorse owners are using tap water. Many of the ro users are folks who previously tried them with tap water and made the switch... le sigh, I just don't want to the hassle ;P But I might make the leap.
Sounds like you're doing your homework! Let me know if I can answer anymore questions.
vlangel
Premium Member
Hi and welcome! I thought that I would share that I kept erectus seahorses for about 5 years. They are the most charming fish pets ever but definitely not for the casual aquarist.
I had very good success when I followed the advise of folks like rayjay and Pete Giwjonja at Ocean Rider. However when I tried to push the boundaries of what is recommended by these knowledgeable folks, I ran into trouble. Believe when I say an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure when it comes to seahorses. Treating sick ponies is no fun.
I wish you the best of luck with this project.
vlangel
Premium Member
So how many more days in quarantine?
