What Can I Do To Encourage My Seahorses To Breed
- Thread starter attygarla
- Start date
Brock Fluharty
New member
Make them comfortable.
tank info
tank info
IT IS A 75 GAL DEEP SAND REFUGIUM WITH SLOW WATER MOVEMENT SOME SOFT CORALS, RED MANGROVES 3 PAIRS OF BOTH TYPES OF CLEANER SHRIMP AND SEVERAL (5) OF THE BLUE CLEANER GOBIES AND A 2 INCH MYSTERY WRASSE. I FEED THE H2O FROZEN MINI MYSIS AND FROZEN MYSYD SHRIMP TREATED WITH VIBRANCE II I ALSO ALWAYS KEEP A GOOD NUMBER OF MOLLY FRY FOR THEM TO FEED ON AND A GOOD NOMBER OF THE MARINE GHOST SHRIMP I KEEP TEMP 79 SALINITY AT .025 0 NITRATES O TO .03 PHOS I USE TWO 150/W METAL HALIDES WITH BLUE ACTINIC AND BLUE MOON LIGHT THE TANK IS LIT FROM 5PM TO 9 AM AS THE MAIN TANK FISH/REEF UPSTAIRS IS LIT FROM 6 AM TO 5 PM SEVERAL SAND STIRRERS AND TWO TUXEDO URCHINS I FEED BRINE SHRIMP ARTEMA ALMOST DAILY AND ROTIFERS FOR THE CORALS WITH REED MARICULTURE ALGAE ETC. (FOR THE CORALS) I FILTER WITH TWO LARGE SOX WITH CARBON AND NITRATE PADS TWO PROTIEN SKIMMERS ONE HAS OZONE AND THIS OVERFLOWS INTO TWO OTHER LOWER LEVEL REUGIUMS THEN ITS PUMPED BACK UPSTAIRS THE MALE REDI IS WILD BUT 3 YEARS OLD AND THE FEMALES ARE CAPTIVE AND ABOUT 2 YRS OLD THE MALE FREQUENTLY LOOKS SWOLLEN BUT NEVER GIVES BIRTH ????/
tank info
IT IS A 75 GAL DEEP SAND REFUGIUM WITH SLOW WATER MOVEMENT SOME SOFT CORALS, RED MANGROVES 3 PAIRS OF BOTH TYPES OF CLEANER SHRIMP AND SEVERAL (5) OF THE BLUE CLEANER GOBIES AND A 2 INCH MYSTERY WRASSE. I FEED THE H2O FROZEN MINI MYSIS AND FROZEN MYSYD SHRIMP TREATED WITH VIBRANCE II I ALSO ALWAYS KEEP A GOOD NUMBER OF MOLLY FRY FOR THEM TO FEED ON AND A GOOD NOMBER OF THE MARINE GHOST SHRIMP I KEEP TEMP 79 SALINITY AT .025 0 NITRATES O TO .03 PHOS I USE TWO 150/W METAL HALIDES WITH BLUE ACTINIC AND BLUE MOON LIGHT THE TANK IS LIT FROM 5PM TO 9 AM AS THE MAIN TANK FISH/REEF UPSTAIRS IS LIT FROM 6 AM TO 5 PM SEVERAL SAND STIRRERS AND TWO TUXEDO URCHINS I FEED BRINE SHRIMP ARTEMA ALMOST DAILY AND ROTIFERS FOR THE CORALS WITH REED MARICULTURE ALGAE ETC. (FOR THE CORALS) I FILTER WITH TWO LARGE SOX WITH CARBON AND NITRATE PADS TWO PROTIEN SKIMMERS ONE HAS OZONE AND THIS OVERFLOWS INTO TWO OTHER LOWER LEVEL REUGIUMS THEN ITS PUMPED BACK UPSTAIRS THE MALE REDI IS WILD BUT 3 YEARS OLD AND THE FEMALES ARE CAPTIVE AND ABOUT 2 YRS OLD THE MALE FREQUENTLY LOOKS SWOLLEN BUT NEVER GIVES BIRTH ????/
JM68
New member
temp is much too high for them. should be between 70-73. Also the mystery wrasse will cause stress as will cleaner shrimp. do u have micro bubbles in the tank?? that could be a the cause of the male being swollen also it could be an infection that the warm water is contributing to.
How do you know he hasn't given birth? In a tank like that, the young would be quickly devoured and/or caught up in the filter box. jThe male would have to be transferred to another container before the birthing.
However, I think it would be difficult but not impossible for the horses to get in the mood for the necessary mating swim with those tank mates.
However, I think it would be difficult but not impossible for the horses to get in the mood for the necessary mating swim with those tank mates.
namxas
Things With Stings R Us!
SH typically give birth in the wee hours of the AM, so as rayjay mentioned, the fry may be "gone" by the time you see the tank.
also, the male may simply be flirting and displaying his pouch by filling it w/water. look to see is your females are gravid (they will look decidedly fat).
also, are you observing any courting behavior? i know you mentioned that you have a 75 gal tank, but if there is insufficient headroom, the SH may not be able to complete their coital "spins" and egg transfer. this is especially true if you have inexperienced SH. altho they won't last long in your tank, look for clumps of bright orange eggs on the substrate, which would indicate a "missed" transfer.
once you have a known pergnancy, you have about a 2 week gestation period.
and lastly, reidi are one of the two hardest SH fry to rear, so don't get discouraged. you'll likely go thru many broods before finding your "method".
also, the male may simply be flirting and displaying his pouch by filling it w/water. look to see is your females are gravid (they will look decidedly fat).
also, are you observing any courting behavior? i know you mentioned that you have a 75 gal tank, but if there is insufficient headroom, the SH may not be able to complete their coital "spins" and egg transfer. this is especially true if you have inexperienced SH. altho they won't last long in your tank, look for clumps of bright orange eggs on the substrate, which would indicate a "missed" transfer.
once you have a known pergnancy, you have about a 2 week gestation period.
and lastly, reidi are one of the two hardest SH fry to rear, so don't get discouraged. you'll likely go thru many broods before finding your "method".
One other thing, with your male to female ratio, it could even be that your male is getting eggs from one female and then dumping them to court with another. I don't know if that is actually happening, but it could be.
If your tank is a "standard" 75 gallon, it probably isn't deep enough for them to mate in. The standard recommendation is three times the length of the horse.
Many people do not recommend tankmates for horses, but I think that your gobies should be fine. But I like gobies (all but the large sandsifting ones.)
If your tank is a "standard" 75 gallon, it probably isn't deep enough for them to mate in. The standard recommendation is three times the length of the horse.
Many people do not recommend tankmates for horses, but I think that your gobies should be fine. But I like gobies (all but the large sandsifting ones.)
DanU
New member
There are several things you can do to induce breeding. Some good advice has already been given.
First step particularly with this species is to have an even number of males to females. Ideally no more than a couple of pairs in a tank. They will pair off and this is usually all that needs to be done.
If the above doesn't work, then sometimes you can encourage them by adjusting temperature and lighting. If the tank is warm (as described above) lower the temperature and shorten the lighting period. This simulates the change of season and will often encourage breeding. Likewise if the tank is cool, raise the temperature slightly and lengthen the lighting period.
The idea that low flow is needed for seahorses is a twist from strong current. They like high flow provided is broken up so it doesn't blast them around the tank. Increasing flow sometimes help with activity and breeding.
As mentioned above, you can sometimes have fry and they disappear quite quickly. Filters and feeding can quickly make the fry disappear. Anything that can eat them should be removed or the pregnant male needs to be removed to a quarantine or birthing tank. Sometimes, even the seahorses will eat their fry.
Dan
First step particularly with this species is to have an even number of males to females. Ideally no more than a couple of pairs in a tank. They will pair off and this is usually all that needs to be done.
If the above doesn't work, then sometimes you can encourage them by adjusting temperature and lighting. If the tank is warm (as described above) lower the temperature and shorten the lighting period. This simulates the change of season and will often encourage breeding. Likewise if the tank is cool, raise the temperature slightly and lengthen the lighting period.
The idea that low flow is needed for seahorses is a twist from strong current. They like high flow provided is broken up so it doesn't blast them around the tank. Increasing flow sometimes help with activity and breeding.
As mentioned above, you can sometimes have fry and they disappear quite quickly. Filters and feeding can quickly make the fry disappear. Anything that can eat them should be removed or the pregnant male needs to be removed to a quarantine or birthing tank. Sometimes, even the seahorses will eat their fry.
Dan
I found that putting up pictures of nude female sea horses surrounding the tank encourages this behavior. It is possible that your female is unattractive and the male needs some extra incentive to breed with her. Seeing various other sea horses might put him in the proper mood. Please make sure the photos include various poses as he may become bored with just the side view.
tongabranch
New member
I was going to suggest some Barry White.......
laurarca
New member
I have had 2 pair of ORA reidi's that have spawned over a dozen times in just less than 6 months...both pair are in a 30g flatback hex tank, alone, with just a superb cleanup crew. I run a protein skimmer and my temp is running 76-77. I see them do their "dance" every morning and the males usually deliver in the wee hours, consistently. They do not eat their young!! I do have soft corals in with them and some of the zoas or palys wil get the babies as they are free floating. I have my fry tank set up and have 1 live only ONE time for 6 weeks, and I lost him. It is almost impossible to raise H. Reidi...but I will NOT give up 
Don't give up on the Reidi fry. I lost my first 9 batches before I succeeded and now I have 55 at the 5 1/2 to 7 month mark.
Have you checked the org for the various methods that others have succeeded with?
Unfortunately the hobbyist who supplied me with fry moved to another province so I'm currently looking for another supply in southwestern Ontario.
While some success can occur at higher 70's temperatures, the great majority of seahorses are lost when kept at these temperatures because of their susceptibility to bacterial infections.
As temperatures increase, the bacterial colonies like vibrio, multiply exponentially, especially when reaching 75 and above.
If you check the threads on the org over the last 5 or 6 years you will find most problems, although not all, occur at the higher temperatures, especially ones that are bacterial in origin.
Have you checked the org for the various methods that others have succeeded with?
Unfortunately the hobbyist who supplied me with fry moved to another province so I'm currently looking for another supply in southwestern Ontario.
While some success can occur at higher 70's temperatures, the great majority of seahorses are lost when kept at these temperatures because of their susceptibility to bacterial infections.
As temperatures increase, the bacterial colonies like vibrio, multiply exponentially, especially when reaching 75 and above.
If you check the threads on the org over the last 5 or 6 years you will find most problems, although not all, occur at the higher temperatures, especially ones that are bacterial in origin.
laurarca
New member
Thanks Rayjay!!
OK...wouldn't you know I have had another batch arrive THIS morning! This is what I tried to have 1 live to about 5 weeks...PLEASE tell me what you do, or what I am doing wrong.
-babies are syphoned out of parent tank, living in a 5 gallon aqaurium with the same water they were born in.
-they are in "green water" by dosing with DT's phytoplankton
-they have a larger airstone,and about a 1 pound piece of liverock
-they have a plastic plant for "hitching", at some point
-I feed newly hatched baby brine shrimp 3 times a day
-I was told not to do TOO many water changes as that just removes the DT's and the BBS. I do have some hermit crabs and astrea snails to help keep the bottom clean...yes, they eat the dead babies :-(
-the water temp is steady at 75-76
Am I missing anything to tell you? Please let me know!!
Laura
OK...wouldn't you know I have had another batch arrive THIS morning! This is what I tried to have 1 live to about 5 weeks...PLEASE tell me what you do, or what I am doing wrong.
-babies are syphoned out of parent tank, living in a 5 gallon aqaurium with the same water they were born in.
-they are in "green water" by dosing with DT's phytoplankton
-they have a larger airstone,and about a 1 pound piece of liverock
-they have a plastic plant for "hitching", at some point
-I feed newly hatched baby brine shrimp 3 times a day
-I was told not to do TOO many water changes as that just removes the DT's and the BBS. I do have some hermit crabs and astrea snails to help keep the bottom clean...yes, they eat the dead babies :-(
-the water temp is steady at 75-76
Am I missing anything to tell you? Please let me know!!
Laura
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