what does everyone think the most ideal salinity level is for zoos?

TropTrea

New member
This question came up in another thread based on an observance and another comments.

My observance is that when I dropped my Salinity to 1.021 my zoos started closing up and looking sick. When I brought it back up they perked up when it was over 1.023.

Anoter individual stated he never could keep zoos than got a new hydrometer and found his salinity was up in the red zone. When he brought the salinity down his zoos perked up and now they are flourishing.

Our suspicion is that zoos may be more sensative to salinty levels than many other corals are. so we would like to discuss where everyone with beautiful fast growing corals are keeping there salinity.

Then the question goes if salinity is so important what about other levels alkilinity, calcium, and magnesium?
 
Zoanthids in my opinion are very hardy and resilient. Although I will have to say that personally I have noticed that they don't like lower salinity levels. Same thing happened to me regarding higher to lower to higher salinity. I keep my salinity at around a .024 and they are happy. One thing I noticed you said is that you tested with a hydrometer. Imo they are worthless. Toss it and make a minimal investment in a refractometer. They cost no more than what we would pay for coral nowadays! GL
 
Depends on the species.
S.G. of 1.023 is a good way to keep many of them in the same system without trouble.

Again, we don't have to go crazy about it. I found that they can deal with salinity change if it happens slowly. That's the reason why some can still keep zoas in small systems without an auto top off system.

Salinity and other params could be the reason for trouble in keeping zoas, not salinity alone, in "normal conditions".

The more consistent the chemistry of the system is, the better to keep them open and happy. So, when you keep an auto top off, you check already the salinity out of question, right? No, that's only part of the process.

I would say:
Ca: 380 - 420ppm.
Alk: 8 - 10 dKH
Mg: 1285ppm +
Temp: 76-79F
For many cases.

Water changes, feeding, organic rates and all will play with the system...

Everything is connected and we need to choose the S.G., adjust the system, and keep it stable. Stability is the key.

My US$.02 to the topic. :)

Hope hear more from you guys...
Grandis.
 
Great thread Trop and some great replies thus far. I will submit my reply soon, have a serious headache, hard to type.

No one else has any feedback on this topic which affects everyone's system? Wow !!!
 
1.022-1.025 is where i keep mine, if they stay too long around or below 1.021 they melt on me. Z's and P's very sensitive to Salinity, pH and Alk swings or issues.
 
My tank .026 with lots of zoas
Kids tank .024
experiment tank in backyard to grow stuff .026-.030 zoas love sun they get huge but color gets pale
 
smaller tank with evap equals fluctuations easily. Less room for error. Compared to larger tank with larger displacement of water
 
There is a ton of valuable info to extract already from this thread which should help a lot of reefers young and old.

As Cubbies and Troptrea stated, a hydrometer is simply not worth trusting with hundreds if not thousands of doallars in coral and coral related purchases. No two are seldom accurate side by side. Bubble collection and residue on a dirty swing arm can dramatically affect your reading, so why not invest in a relaible refractometer. :thumbsup:

A.Grandis makes a great point also, changes in salinity must always be made slowly and gradually. I cringe when I see LFS dumping buckets of freshly mixed salt water they just mixed in front of me with temp adjustments, aeration or circulation to increase their tank's salinity. :thumbsup:

GeorgeMonnatJr makes a great point as well. If you don't visit The Reef Chemistry Forum, you're missing out on a lot of healpful info from Randy Holmes Farley which will impact your tank. :thumbsup:

Friday Night speaks of smaller tanks. He is on the money as they must be eyeballed more often than larger systems. Why? :thumbsup:

BOOM !!! 650-IS350 explains it in his reply. Large tanks, greater margins for error. Smaller tanks, less margin for errors. Simple yet valuable stuff:thumbsup:


:beer:GREAT STUFF PEEPS, thanks for sharing, and all of that from just one thread. This is the kind of simple Q & A, feedback and tidbits that will increase ones longevity and success in reefing :beer:


Gotta have more thread and replies like this as we did back in the day :dance:


Mucho Reef
 
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I remember when my salinity was at 1.022, all my corals were a live but they just didn't look right. I bought a refractometer and raised the salinity to 1.026 and now everything in my tank has been doing great!


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long term salinity being too low or too high Z's and P's will either close up or look like crap, but down the line will melt or wither. Personal experience.
 
As in 53.0 mS/cm or 1.026 specific gravity? I see a lot of people in the 1.021 to 1.024 range, including my main LFS, but I've been trying to keep 1.026 (on Dr. Randy Holmes-Farley's recommendations).

SG.

The reason to be honest is the line is easier to read since it is a bold line on the refract. I go through 2 cups of salt per month for the tank so running even at the upper end of the range doesn' mean much.

Having said that I top off by hand at least once to twice a day so I know that I have flucuations. I have some polyps at the water's surface that can be exposed to air or just mostly wet until I get to the tank. I think my tank is use to it and isn't as big of an issue compared to another tank that is rock steady all year long.

My temps. probably change a few degrees throughout the day as well.

I guess I am not a model reefer by definition but these things work for me and I figure I am much more likely to continue doing them long term vs. being forced to focus.

I have had jobs/research that focused on important fish species and everything had to be picture perfect all the time. If not there were mortality issues.
 
This question came up in another thread based on an observance and another comments.

My observance is that when I dropped my Salinity to 1.021 my zoos started closing up and looking sick. When I brought it back up they perked up when it was over 1.023.

Anoter individual stated he never could keep zoos than got a new hydrometer and found his salinity was up in the red zone. When he brought the salinity down his zoos perked up and now they are flourishing.

Our suspicion is that zoos may be more sensative to salinty levels than many other corals are. so we would like to discuss where everyone with beautiful fast growing corals are keeping there salinity.

Then the question goes if salinity is so important what about other levels alkilinity, calcium, and magnesium?



Great thread, and only 16 replies, wow ??????????

I know I may be in the minority, but I base my opinions on data and personal experience when I say this.

It's not that zoanthids are sensitive to salinity/specific gravity levels, it is the sudden to dramatic shifts or flucuations of it.

I have viewed data which shows varying reefs around the world with Speicific Gravity measure at 1.010 to as high 1.030. That is a whopping .020 variation. Back in 2003, I maintained a well stocked system of thousands of polyps at a SG of 1.022. However this was done with the strictest care in keeping that reading as constant with diligent monitoring. My growth was crazy, but I then made gradual increases until I reached a new level of 1.025 to 1.026 and my growth was off the charts. It was one of the factors of which I believe contributed to the explosive and unstoppable growth I had along will careful husbandry, (knock on wood).

As it relates to zoanthids, finding that happy medium and mainatining it is what is key in my opinion. Example, if you have varying zoanthids from diverse regions around the world, collected at different depths and diverse conditions, will all of your polyps grow or expand exactly the same? In my opinion, maybe, maybe not. If I have polyps that were collected at a slightly lower SG than my system, and others from a region with an SG higher than my system, and polyps I received from Junior Samples who SG was also different, it would stand to reason that some of these polyps are going to retract as a result of these varying reading. However, it by making minor to gradual changes in SG until one finds a happy medium of which expansion occurs for all polyps, then that is where I would choose to set my SG. I would however shoot for readings within the 1.024 to 1.027 SG and only you can determine the appropriate levels for your system based on and considering any other corals and inverts in said system.


The use of cheap hydrometers for a system with hundreds if not thousands of dollars in livestock just baffles me. Hydrometers measure observed gravity, not specific gravity. Countless tanks have crashed along with total coral mortality as a result of a simple hydrometer. Beat me up if you want, but I will never deviate from that statement. Troptrea and I spoke of it in a previous thread. I agree with Cubbies, dump the hydrometers.

I think it is interesting to note that Troptrea had a mere .002 shift in SG which yielded negative results. Being on the low end of SG levels in aquaria, would this have occured if those readings were 1.026 with a decrease of .002? If your system was at 1.026 and had mainatined this reading for months, I don't believe you would have experienced such dramatic declines, but that's just me. It's just a hunch, what do you think? Sounds like a good discussion is continuing. I think your observation is sheds much light on the importance of SG.

I think you're sharing this is very very helpful. Thanks for sharing my friend. Hope to see more like this.


Mucho Reef
 
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