what is the best ATO?

smart-ato-autoaqua-heating-arms-race-automatic-top-systems


Found this ATO product while having an episode of insomnia. Uses light sensor like tunnze but the sensor is on the outside of the tank. Suppose to hit the market in a couple months.
 
http://youtu.be/5sAz4H0x08s
Found this ATO product while having an episode of insomnia. Uses light sensor like tunnze but the sensor is on the outside of the tank. Product name is "smart ATO" by Autoaqua, suppose to hit the market in a couple months. There is a review in reef builders but I can't post the link
 
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http://youtu.be/5sAz4H0x08s
Found this ATO product while having an episode of insomnia. Uses light sensor like tunnze but the sensor is on the outside of the tank. Product name is "smart ATO" by Autoaqua, suppose to hit the market in a couple months. There is a review in reef builders but I can't post the link

Looks pretty slick, I like it. According to the review Coralvue will be the distributor in North America.

I wish it was available sooner, I need a good ATO before December.
 
I have 2 avast ATO. 1 on a 240 and the other on a 180. Bought work flawless. Pretty much set it and forget it. Mine r the deluxe, both have the peristalsis pumps.
 
Just looked at Avast. Looks like a work in progress to me.

It's not a work in progress. They've been around for several years and work flawlessly. They're on B/O because they're handbuilt in the USA by a small company in Virginia and are very popular.
 
Ive used all types of sensors and floats commonly available.
1.the white mechanical ones that float,
2.the Air Reed type that uses air pressure like the one by Spectrapure LLC or the old Tsunami ATO and now AVAST,
3. the original optical sensor one from Tunze Osmolator and
4. a regular mechanical float valve, like KENT.

The cheapest is Definetaly a Kent float connected to a bucket above the level of your sump. Dangerous if you dose kalk because it will clog. Fine if you only dose pure RO and youre not using it on a tiny tank. 5 gal of RO water dumped on a ten gal reef is much worst than 5 gal of RO on a 75gal.

The best set up for smaller to medium tanks if not dosing Kalk would be the Tunze 3155. It has the optical and the mechanical back up. The NANO Omolator does NOT have the optical sensor.

The absolute best is a Liter Meter III with its back up shut off float. The reason why is because you can program the volume to be delivered over 24 hours and it has an air-reed type back up shut off, which is much less prone to clogging or being accidentaly activated d by debris or a snail..

Im talking for those of us without a controller like APEX. If you have a main controller, Eddie's One-two punch is cheap and simple and "statistically" pretty safe. (Eddie, I love the use of the word in your sentence!).
 
It's not a work in progress. They've been around for several years and work flawlessly. They're on B/O because they're handbuilt in the USA by a small company in Virginia and are very popular.

I'm happy with mine. Just wish the magnet was stronger. Then again my sump sides are a little beefy. I'm sure anything 1/4" would be fine.
 
Marinedepot sells it for $169. New product, uses a 5 volt DC conductivity sensor. Not sure I want to subject my tank to a constant 5v. Also is the most expensive!

The problem with their set up that i found is that you need to purchase 2 different items to have a full system. A vendor at macna had it and so does all fish. both said you had to get both for it to work so the system comes out to be around $300 or so unless i miss understood them.
 
The problem with their set up that i found is that you need to purchase 2 different items to have a full system. A vendor at macna had it and so does all fish. both said you had to get both for it to work so the system comes out to be around $300 or so unless i miss understood them.

i continue to go back to simple system with controller assistance in shutting off ato based on ph.

those with no controller, i still recommend simple system with second float valve. iv had a controller for a few years and have never had it shut down ato. only had one mishap and second float valve kicked in. .
 
Ended up purchasing the avast ATO product. It was $100 with shipping. It uses a pressure switch sensor and is held in place with a magnet. I bought the diy bare wire model that i control with my apex thru the breakout box. It integrated into my apex ATO system and functions just like the float switch so I didn't have to change much.
 
I use the Apex with three float switches. Float #1 will trigger if water level too low, Float #2 will control water level (ATO it controls an outlet on DC8 to turn on 50 mil peristaltic pump from RO container in garage), Float #3 will trigger if water level is too high. ( 2,3 should never trigger and if they do it will send me a text and email alarm.

If you don't want to use the apex to ATO, you could at least set it up so it send you an alarm.

Good luck

(my program...)

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Outlet V-Sump-level = ON Then ON (the floats trigger V(virtual) outlets)
If Outlet V-Sump-OverF = ON Then OFF
If Outlet V-Water-Bug = ON Then OFF
If Outlet Pump1_3_5 = OFF Then OFF
If FeedA 002 Then OFF
If FeedB 002 Then OFF
If FeedC 002 Then OFF
If FeedD 002 Then OFF
Defer 005:00 Then ON
Defer 000:10 Then OFF
Min Time 025:00 Then OFF
 
I use the Apex with three float switches. Float #1 will trigger if water level too low, Float #2 will control water level (ATO it controls an outlet on DC8 to turn on 50 mil peristaltic pump from RO container in garage), Float #3 will trigger if water level is too high. ( 2,3 should never trigger and if they do it will send me a text and email alarm.

If you don't want to use the apex to ATO, you could at least set it up so it send you an alarm.

Good luck

(my program...)

Fallback OFF
Set OFF
If Outlet V-Sump-level = ON Then ON (the floats trigger V(virtual) outlets)
If Outlet V-Sump-OverF = ON Then OFF
If Outlet V-Water-Bug = ON Then OFF
If Outlet Pump1_3_5 = OFF Then OFF
If FeedA 002 Then OFF
If FeedB 002 Then OFF
If FeedC 002 Then OFF
If FeedD 002 Then OFF
Defer 005:00 Then ON
Defer 000:10 Then OFF
Min Time 025:00 Then OFF

thanks for the info, I'm VERY happy using my apex as ATO. My frustration/stress is worrying about failing float switches. After experiencing the float switch failure I wanted a better product for peace-of-mind. The Avast switch is a pressure switch with no moving parts or electrical wires in the water. I program it just as I did the float switch, I just like that it is NOT a float switch and less prone to fail.

On a different note: I was looking at your apex programming and was curious about your use of the Defer command. Could you explain how the 2 lines of Defer On/OFF work for you? BTW, I just started playing with Virtual outlets - love them :)
 
thanks for the info, I'm VERY happy using my apex as ATO. My frustration/stress is worrying about failing float switches. After experiencing the float switch failure I wanted a better product for peace-of-mind. The Avast switch is a pressure switch with no moving parts or electrical wires in the water. I program it just as I did the float switch, I just like that it is NOT a float switch and less prone to fail.

On a different note: I was looking at your apex programming and was curious about your use of the Defer command. Could you explain how the 2 lines of Defer On/OFF work for you? BTW, I just started playing with Virtual outlets - love them :)



OK, How about float as a back up to the back up( if you don't have one). I in addition to the high level float(3) have a water bug leak sensor as a second back up. also depending on the function of the float it could be connected n/c or n/o as a fail safe mode.

Defer 005:00 Then ON (after float triggers it waits 5 min before activating pump)

Defer 000:10 Then OFF ( float has to be triggered for longer than 10 sec to turn off, It avoids bouncing )
 
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