What is your TDS threshold for changing filters?

Sophie10

Member
I have a Pure Flo II 50gpd, and it has been more than adequate. It's an RODI unit I've had almost two years. I've replaced the filters 3x, but have not yet replaced the RO membrane. I do a monthly flush of the system, as recommended. I have a TDS meter reading before and after the RO membrane. My 'before' value is 0 ppm (following the DI resin), my after value is 7 ppm. My membrane is near the recommended change time, but what is your cutoff for TDS values and filter changes. Also, what happens to the RO membrane that causes TDS to rise?
 
I have my duel TDS meter hooked up after the RO and after the DI. So when I see15 to 20 after the RO membrane its time to change it usually around 2 years or so. If I see 1 TDS after the DI its time to change that. The higher the TDS after the RO the faster the DI wears out. I also have a pressure gage after the other filters and when the pressure goes down 3 to 5 PSI its time to change them. Hope that helps.
 
The membrane wears out from constant pressure and flow and general degradation.. 7ppm tds post membrane doesn't sound bad. It should typically be around 2 to 5% of you pre membrane tds. Post di needs to be 0 as post di tds is more dangerous. If the membrane fails it will leave more for the resin to clean up and the resin will exhaust more quickly.
 
i was having issues with final tds of 1. i had done a complete rodi rebuild at tax time. completely new membrane,filters,resin.
 
I've had chronic issues with TDS elevation in the past. Added a membrane flush kit and a second DI chamber. Problem solved. Any time it creeps up I change the resin in both DI chambers. I try to flush the RO unit every time its been idle.
 
IFfthose di chambers are in line a tds meter between them can give you a reading for tds for both independently. Then when the first one shows more than 0 ,it can be changed out and the second one moved to the first spot with new resin in the second spot chamber. This saves resin and helps insure it's changed when needed.
 
A good rule of thumb is to replace your sediment filter and carbon block after six months. A more precise way to maximize the usable life of these two filters is to use a pressure gauge to identify when pressure reaching the membrane starts to decline. This is your indication one or both of the filters is beginning to clog.

Also be cognizant of the chlorine capacity of the carbon block. A good 0.5 micron carbon block for example will remove 99% of chlorine from 20,000 gallons of tap water presented at 1 gpm. Some original equipment suppliers commonly provide carbon cartridges rated at 2,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Regarding your RO membrane and DI resin, use your TDS meter to measure, record, and track the TDS (expressed in parts per million) in three places:
1. Tap water
2. After the RO but before the DI
3. After the DI.

The TDS in your tap water will likely range from about 50 ppm to upwards of 1000 parts per million (ppm). Common readings are 100 to 400 ppm. So for sake of discussion, let's say your tap water reads 400 ppm. That means that for every million parts of water, you have 400 parts of dissolved solids. How do we go about getting that TDS reading down to somewhere near zero?

If you do some experimenting with your TDS meter, you'll note that your sediment filter and carbon block filter (collectively called “prefilters”) do very little to remove dissolved solids. So with your tap water at 400 ppm, you can measure the water at the “in” port on your RO housing and you'll see it is still approximately 400 ppm.

The RO membrane is really the workhorse of the system. It removes most of the TDS, some membranes to a greater extent than others. For instance, 100 gpd Filmtec membranes have a rejection rate of 90% (i.e., they reject 90% of the dissolved solids in feed water). So the purified water coming from your 100 gpd membrane would be about 40 ppm (a 90% reduction). Filmtec 75 gpd (and below) membranes produce less purified water (aka “permeate”), but have a higher rejection rate (96 to 98%). The life span of a RO membrane is dependent upon how much water you run through it, and how dirty the water is. Membranes can function well for a year, two years, or more. To test the membrane, measure the total dissolved solids (TDS) in the water coming in to the membrane, and in the purified water (permeate) produced by the membrane. Compare that to the membrane’s advertised rejection rate, and to the same reading you recorded when the membrane was new. Membranes also commonly produce less water as their function declines.

After the RO membrane, water will flow to your DI housing. DI resin in good condition will reduce the 40 ppm water down to 0 or 1 ppm. When the DI output starts creeping up from 0 or 1 ppm, you know that your resin needs to be replaced. Sometimes people complain that their DI resin didn't last very long. Often the culprit is a malfunctioning RO membrane sending the DI resin “dirty” water. This will exhaust the resin quicker than would otherwise have been the case. Sometimes the problem is poor quality resin – remember that all resins are not created equal.

Russ
 
I have a Pure Flo II 50gpd, and it has been more than adequate. It's an RODI unit I've had almost two years. I've replaced the filters 3x, but have not yet replaced the RO membrane. I do a monthly flush of the system, as recommended. I have a TDS meter reading before and after the RO membrane. My 'before' value is 0 ppm (following the DI resin), my after value is 7 ppm. My membrane is near the recommended change time, but what is your cutoff for TDS values and filter changes. Also, what happens to the RO membrane that causes TDS to rise?

Am I reading this wrong, or do you have your DI BEFORE your RO membrane?
 
Thank you all for your excellent posts! I indeed misspoke and Ben saw it. I have the TDS meter after the RO and then after the DI resin. So my readings are '0' ppm after RO and '7' ppm after the DI. I got all the answers I wanted and more! SO thanks to all, Ben, Nico, Russ (wow what a great post!!!), Tom and Dave! I will replace the filters immediately, as already the ppm jumped to 15 after the DI. The DI only lasted 2 months. I'm not sure if that is because of a failing RO membrane (as Russ so eloquently explained), or the fact that I have run a lot through it (left it on overnight, sheesh!), city water treatments for summer - lots of chlorine. I may go one more cycle of filters before I change the RO.

Thanks again for all your collective help!
 
You re welcome. Sometimes the rubber seal on the end end of t membrane crinkles and doesn't sit right inside the tube which allows high tds water to pass through to the resin and exhaust it quickly. good luck
 
Hey all, thanks again! Filters replaced, post RO and post DI TDS readings ZERO as they should be! I'll keep an eye on the RO membrane as I thinks it's on it's last legs...
 
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