Mine is an ebay special GM. Perhaps I should take the hint.....
NO, not at all. Housings are housings, it's all in the filters & membrane you put in them. If you want the BRS one or spectrapure or kent, just match their filters.
I don't like the 100 gpd membranes because your rejection goes down to ~90% where the 75 gpd does >98%.
http://www.appliedmembranes.com/residential_tapwater.htm
http://www.appliedmembranes.com/FilmTec Specs/TW30-1812-ALL.pdf
If you change to a 75 gpd you need to change the flow restrictor or at least make sure you are getting the right product to waste ratio.
Warm, high pressure water is what you want for best performance. Do not use hot water from your water heater as it has more junk in it from the tank. Winter production usually slows unless you preheat the water somehow. I've got my unit supplied with water tapped off before the pressure reducing valve to the house and it runs at 80-90 psi. I also run a dual membrane setup where the reject water from the first filter supplies the second membrane, so i'm getting about a 1-1.5/2 product to reject ratio. Dual di as well, with the second getting swapped to the first position when I start getting color change and then fresh put into the second position. Full di utilization, then saved for regeneration. 150+ gpd
Top from right to left is sediment, carbon, carbon block, ro1, ro2, di1, di2.
Bottom right three housings are beer water filters :beer:
Which model ro do you have now? All else fails pick a cheap housing or two and add a chloramine or di stage if you need too.
Contact your water authority and find out what they recommend for prefilters to protect the ro based on what they are using to treat the water with to get the best filter layout.
You got the beers, I got the time to help you out with whatever you need!
-Walter
