What kind of RO system do you run????

[tmz]

I have mine plumbed into a cold water line. Runs ok with about 50psi. I use a 1 micron filter and two carbon block filters with a 75gpd filmtec membrane with a 75gpd flow restrictor; then 2 di canisters with tds meter readings in and out of the second one. I change resin on the lead di canister when the reading into the second goes above 0. I check post membrane tds ocassionally with a hand held tds meter. It runs around 8 ppm tds post membrane on tap input that tests at about 160ppm.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Ok thanks. This is all making much better sense to me. A few tweaks and my system can go from crap to completely reliable.

Now, do any of you rely on float valves or other in line shut off valves?

My reservoir is going from a basement with a drain in the floor, to a closet with no drain. What overflow protection can I employ?

 

[captain7359]

I use a float and auto shutoff. Is the closet on the first floor or basement?

Drill a hole with a bulkhead above the float and run that to a drain or waste line.

 

[Conesus_Kid]

I used to rely on a float valve, but it kept getting gummed up with Kalkwasser. I actually took the float valve off and have the topoff dialed back to a drip. I can adjust the drip rate if I have to, but honestly, it hasn't needed it. I sleep much better knowing that I'm not relying on a float valve or auto shutoff.

 

[Capt_Cully]

I use a float and auto shutoff. Is the closet on the first floor or basement?

Drill a hole with a bulkhead above the float and run that to a drain or waste line.

Closet is on first floor. Access to a drain is not an option. I can utilize an auto shut off AND float, but I'll also employ an overflow drain. I'll place the RO collection bucket, inside of a larger unit in case of overflow. I won't rely on any one variable. Vigalence will be the most important part of the equation.

 

[captain7359]

No drilling through the floor to drain to the basement?

If you've got a way to snake a poly line your ro unit can reside anywhere as well as your water tanks. My feed line goes from the front of the house to the unit in the back then the drain goes to the side to the laundry room to drain. Don't let your connection and drain points mess up your plans if you can route the lines easily.

 

[Gravesj1s]

I just use a float valve plumbed into each bucket,one for salt one for limewater.Works well with autoshutoff whitch is actually just a checkvalve.Shuts off while im at work or whatever ,when I get homeand see the buckets full I just close the incoming valve to the unit.

Thought its worth a mention here.
When talking about sediment prefilters I think its probably a good idea to use the same micron size sediment prefilter as your carbon block.Carbon block is what keeps chlorine from destroying your ro membrane, millions of tiny pores in it so if it starts collecting sediment by having a higher poresize micron filter in front of it,the pores of the carbon might clog allowing chlorine to pass through destroying your membrane(.I.e-1 micron sediment followed by .5 carbon block.)Better would be .5 sed. followed by .5 carbon block.
Just my thought though.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

I think its probably a good idea to use the same micron size sediment prefilter as your carbon block.

Right on the money. This is a much better approach than some vendors still use: 10 mic sediment, 5 micron bloc, 0.5 mic block.

Russ

 

[tmz]

I run my ro into a reservoir ( brute garbage can) . I use a float shut off valve ( on it, so it fills automatically. I do have it near the basement sump in case of failure and overflow which has never happened in over 7 years.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Regarding dealing with cold temperatures - if cold temperatures limit production of DI water to the point that you need more water faster, the most practical solution is to add pressure.

This time of year we start getting calls from people concerned that their water production has slowed down. First questions we ask are: What is your water temp? What is your water pressure at the membrane? What is the gpd rating on your membrane?

With these three bits of info, you can use the calculator on our website to see what the membrane ought to be producing under those conditions. Remember that the factory spec ratings like 75 gpd for example, are what the membrane will produce under a set of standard conditions. For Filmtec membranes, that includes 77 degrees water and 50 psi.

So if you are thinking your membrane needs to be replaced because production has slowed - before you buy, check out the temp. and pressure and you may find your membrane is fine.

This is one of the reasons all our Premium Series RODI systems include a thermometer on the sediment filter housing, as well as a pressure gauge.

Russ

 

[Capt_Cully]

OK, so, I can't really get excited about my build until I tackle the RO/DI situation. I plan on employing a 75 GPD flow restrictor, and a 75 GPD Filmtec membrane, 2 .5 micron sediment filters, then a .5 micron Carbon block. I'm going to add an additional DI canister, and that's about it for updating the unit.

Next is HOW to put it where I want it.

The reservoir will definitely reside in my laundry room closet, which is the room directly behind the wall where the tank will sit. As seen on right of photo

Sink to left of closet in picture above, has a lot of room underneath to house the unit, but I'd prefer to not have to work under there.

The issue is, should I access the cold supply line there, THEN run it under the floor, and back up into the closet across the little hall way and keep the unit in the closet along with the reservoir? I can easily set up a float switch, with help, and auto shut off. But I can also drill into the floor of the closet and access a no longer in use, PVC line that goes to the sump pump in the basement. The sump pump is the only drainage in the basement. There are no sinks or floor drains in the basement.

Old drain PVC from dehumidifier:

Where it empties remotely, into the sump pump:

I'm confused as to how to actually access the cold supply line in the laundry room sink.

I'm not sure if the jump from the sink to the closet would require a booster pump.

Where do you guys get your RO supplies? BRS doesn't have .5 micron sed and carbon filters.

What actual auto shut off and float valve do you use? links appreciated.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

I think you'd be more than satisfied with a 1 micron sediment filter (one or two of them - one would probably be sufficient) if it is a poly depth filter, teamed with a 0.5 micron carbon block.

Because you're in a laundary room, you have all sorts of options. You could go with a hose bib splitter and a hose bib adapter, or an undersink shut off supply valve. Both would work well for you.

If you are going to run the DI output from under the sink to the closet - that should be no issue and shouldn't require a delivery pump. You could even route the tube up over the door frame. Do you know what your line pressure is?

Russ

 

[Capt_Cully]

No idea on line pressure. Exposed plumbing, besides the waste line, is not an option.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

OK - if you want to keep the plumbing very "clean" - no exposed tubes - you could put the sytem under the sink. Tap into the plumbing with one of these:

You could utilize that drain pipe you show, or use a drain saddle to tap into the drain pipe under the sink.

I think I would avoid running the waste water to a location that would require the sump pump to kick on - just another thing that could go wrong/increase your electric bill.

If you route the purified water tube under the floor to the closet, is that space under the floor heated? If there is a chance that standing water in that tube would freeze, better look for a different option.

Russ

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Or if you don't want to put the system under the sink, you could put it in the closet. You could still tap into the plumbing under the sink if that's the most convenient. Extending a 1/4" tube the 10 feet or so to the system in the closet would cause trouble by reducing water pressure too much.

Russ

 

[captain7359]

Mark, you can put the ro in the basement where you have more room to work on it still.

Use the

fitting to go above the cold water shutoff valve

below any sink you've got closest then run the ro poly tubing to wherever you have the unit.


Get a drain saddle

to go on your sink drain piping (somewhere in the white pipe before it goes into the black trap)

(which you drill a 1/4" hole in) and attach the ro drain line to.

Put the ro where you want it and can service it easily, or it will just be one more thing you hate doing. The poly can be run wherever for the supply, waste, and product



Don't forget a float for inside the resevoir tank
<TABLE id=Table1 width=600 border=0><FORM name=_xclick action=https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr method=post target=paypal><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=3>
</TD></TR></FORM><FORM name=_xclick action=https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr method=post target=paypal><TR><TD vAlign=top align=middle rowSpan=2>

</TD><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">BFS-545 Float valve, standard, 1/4 inch tube - $8.00 <HR>This float valve will connect directly to 1/4-inch OD tubing. Includes bulkhead fitting. </TD></TR></FORM></TBODY></TABLE>

and a auto shutoff for the ro unit

<TABLE id=Table1 width=600 border=0><FORM name=_xclick action=https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr method=post target=paypal><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=middle rowSpan=2>

</TD><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">BFS-117 Automatic shutoff valve - $9.79 <HR>This automatic shutoff valve stops flow to minimize waste. Comes with detailed instructions. Equipped with four quick-connect fittings for instant installation. Requires a check valve (see fittings page) be installed between the RO permeate port and the auto shut off valve. For use with membranes up to 100 gpd. </TD></TR></TBODY></FORM></TABLE>




This is good animation too

http://www.h2odistributors.com/reverseosmosis_diagram.asp

 

[Capt_Cully]

Thanks guys, HUGE HUGE HUGE help.

Another question, would that fitting suffice on my sink's plumbing?

I have what looks like 3/8 inch copper piping coming out of the shut off for the cold water.

would a vampire valve work better? I've heard mixed reviews about them. Thanks....I'm almost there fellas.

 

[Capt_Cully]

OK, so I ordered everything I needed. Some from BRS (auto shut off, float, flow restrictor, drain fitting, Jug-O-DI resin), some from Filters Direct (extra DI housing), and some from BFS (tubing and filters). It's been a PITA which is why I've been putting it off. But missing the swap yesterday has kicked me back into gear.

Only thing I have not ordered is the access fitting. Not sure how I should tap into that 3/8" Copper tubing.

I plan to have the RO/DI unit in the closet. I will run the tubing down into the floor and up into the bottom of the cabinet for the sink for access and waste drainage, UNLESS you guys think I'll need a booster pump. In which case, I can put the unit under the sink, which is NOT my preference. (It is about a 10 to 15 foot run by my gross estimation from sink, into floor, up into unit on wall.)

You guys are helping me out big time. Thanks a million!

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Stay away from the self piercing needle valves ("vampire valve") if you have other options (and you do!). The undersink shut off supply valve would work - you'll have to cut off a few inches of that 3/8 copper pipe.


Russ

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Got your order for the filters and tubing. If you want to add the undersing shut off supply valve let us know asap and we can ship it with your other order and avoid extra shipping charges.

Russ