What kind of RO system do you run????

[Buckeye Hydro]

Follow these simple instructions when installing new prefilters, reverse osmosis mem-branes, or deionization resin. Some filters should be flushed when first installed. “Flushing” is no more complicated than running water through the filter without delivering the flush water to other stages in your water purification system.
Hint: An easy way to flush new filters is to temporarily install it as the final stage in your system and allow the flush water to go to a drain.
Sediment Filters No need to flush sediment filters unless otherwise specified on the filter label.
Carbon Blocks Manufacturers recommend flushing carbon block cartridges for at least 10 minutes.
GAC Filters Filters containing granular activated carbon should be flushed for at least 10 minutes, or until the flush water runs clear. Catalytic GAC filters (used to treat tap water containing chloramines) achieve full efficiency after being wetted for 12 hours.
RO Membranes Manufacturers recommend flushing at least 2 gallons of water through new dry RO membranes to remove preservatives before using the product water. Don’t run flush water through later stages in your system. Wet membranes should be flushed for 2 hours, or as specified on the membrane label.
DI Resin Run approximately 1 gallon of flush water through new DI resin before using the product wa-ter. Avoid contaminating (bacteria/mold/fungus, etc.) DI resin. Minimize storage time. Store DI resin in an airtight container with no airspace to keep it moist. Keep DI resin in an opaque container to avoid exposure to light during storage. Shipping bags are appropriate for long term storage. Treat your resin gently! If resin is exposed to freezing temperatures during shipping, allow it to warm at room temperature for 24 hours prior to use. Pack resin as tightly as possible in cartridges.

Russ

 

[Gravesj1s]

I didn't read through the link conesus posted but if possible can you drill through the grout line if so you wont need a diamond bit.
Just use a cheap masonary bit.

 

[Capt_Cully]

That's what I did so far. Just enough to run the RO line. But, I want an inch or inch and a quarter hole in the floor to be able to run an extension cord and PVC through. I'll go poke around at HD. Need to go there anyway.

 

[Gravesj1s]

Im not sure youll find one at hd. I f you need one I can get it for you to use .Lemmee know if you have any trouble.

 

[jacksonpt]

So with the tweaks to your system, are you now getting consistent TDS readings of 0ppm?

 

[Capt_Cully]

With all the time between setting this up and building the new tank, I have yet to run it. Thus far, the only help I can offer is purely academic.

HOWEVER, the new tank is going in this Saturday. I'll begin massive water collection very soon.

I thought perhaps the concentration of info in that thread would provide you with some points of interest for you to look into. Gleen from it what you will, so to speak.

Sorry I have no practical data to share at this juncture. As I said, soon enough, I'll be able to report in my results.

 

[tmz]

I'm using a Seachem, 200gpd dual 100gpd membrane unit I purchased when I started over 8 years ago; overdone for my needs. I've removed one membrane housing and now run a single Filmtec 75gpd with the apropriately sized flow restrictor.

A single 1 micron sediment filter is first in line ; followed by two carbon block filters ; followed by the membrane and then two add on canisters in line with mixed anion/cation di resin in each.

An inline tds meter is positioned between the di canisiters so I can know when the first canister produces more than zero tds,which is when I'll change out the resin in it and rotate it to second position. This insures continuous 0 tds final output and eliminates guesswork about when to change the resin. I like the add on using 2 resin canisters a lot.

I also use a hand held tds meter to check various other outputs( house water, mebrane,etc.) from time to time.

 

[jacksonpt]

With all the time between setting this up and building the new tank, I have yet to run it. Thus far, the only help I can offer is purely academic.

HOWEVER, the new tank is going in this Saturday. I'll begin massive water collection very soon.

I thought perhaps the concentration of info in that thread would provide you with some points of interest for you to look into. Gleen from it what you will, so to speak.

Sorry I have no practical data to share at this juncture. As I said, soon enough, I'll be able to report in my results.

No problem... there is some good reading in this thread and it did give me some ideas. I was just wondering if your upgrades worked out the way you expected.

I'm thinking about adding a couple of canisters, but I want to make sure I can get reliable TDS readings of 0 before I put more money into the system.

This is what I'm thinking...
well water
5 micron poly filter
1 micron poly filter
matrikx cto carbon block filter
matrikx cto carbon block filter
membrane
color changing di
color changing di

My thought is that the 5 micron poly filter would help prevent the 1 micron filter from getting clogged too quickly, dual cto carbon blocks because the filter guys recommend them for well water, and 2 di canisters for the reason tom mentioned above.

 

[tmz]

Looks good to me. I've thought about adding a 5 micron to the front end but the 1 holds up well for several months with my input water. I'd probably skip the color changing resin since it's not terribly reliable but it's only a dollar more or so. I'd use a tds meter instead or even with color changing resin.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

The purpose of carbon prefilters is to remove VOC, primarily chlorine. You are on well water with no chloine. No need for 2 carbon prefilters in your case, unless you have some VOC pollution in your well water you haven't told us about.

I'd stick with the color changing resin, and use a tds meter as well.

Russ

 

[FSU3NOLES28]

Mark, you can put the ro in the basement where you have more room to work on it still.

Use the

fitting to go above the cold water shutoff valve

below any sink you've got closest then run the ro poly tubing to wherever you have the unit.


Get a drain saddle

to go on your sink drain piping (somewhere in the white pipe before it goes into the black trap)

(which you drill a 1/4" hole in) and attach the ro drain line to.

Put the ro where you want it and can service it easily, or it will just be one more thing you hate doing. The poly can be run wherever for the supply, waste, and product



Don't forget a float for inside the resevoir tank
<TABLE id=Table1 width=600 border=0><FORM name=_xclick action=https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr method=post target=paypal><TBODY><TR><TD colSpan=3>
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</TD><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">BFS-545 Float valve, standard, 1/4 inch tube - $8.00 <HR>This float valve will connect directly to 1/4-inch OD tubing. Includes bulkhead fitting. </TD></TR></FORM></TBODY></TABLE>

and a auto shutoff for the ro unit

<TABLE id=Table1 width=600 border=0><FORM name=_xclick action=https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr method=post target=paypal><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=middle rowSpan=2>

</TD><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">BFS-117 Automatic shutoff valve - $9.79 <HR>This automatic shutoff valve stops flow to minimize waste. Comes with detailed instructions. Equipped with four quick-connect fittings for instant installation. Requires a check valve (see fittings page) be installed between the RO permeate port and the auto shut off valve. For use with membranes up to 100 gpd. </TD></TR></TBODY></FORM></TABLE>




This is good animation too

http://www.h2odistributors.com/reverseosmosis_diagram.asp

I'm going to go ahead and bump this post in this thread to try and explain the problem with my system.

Here is the picture. What am I missing in mine because everyone else's look like they have a lot more to them than mine?

1 of the tubes is snapped off at the end. The tube that is snapped is connected to the top part of the brass fitting in the upper left hand corner of the picture. the brass fitting goes into the horizontal canister and another tube feeds out the other side and goes behind the unit.

Can someone give me an idea of where the snapped tube is supposed to go? I did see 1 line connected to my drainage pipe... and you can see the 3 that run up to the faucet.

By the way I know I am almost 100% not using the proper terminology for this stuff.

Thanks in advance guys.

 

[Eastamherstbias]

I use the Air/Water/Ice Mighty Mite 50GPD with DI. It works well, no complaints.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Bumping this for myself

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Capt - this is an old and long thread. Be happy to help you but I'm not clear what your question/issue is...

Russ

 

[Capt_Cully]

It was a pain in the butt for me to find it. I couldn't remember what filters I actually went with. I fried my TDS meter and I'm having a nasty cyano outbreak and I haven't changed my filters since 12/10, so I know I'm due. I'm pretty sure the membrane is still fine. I bumped it so I could retraced steps. Post #58 had all the answers I needed.

Thanks for your help back then, and now. Expect an order from me soon :thumbsup:

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

OK. Don't forget to sanitize at least once a year.

Russ

 

[Newreeflady]

5 uM sediment -> 1 uM sediment -> "Chlorine Grabber" carbon (.2 uM) -> filmtec 75 gpd RO -> refillable DI resin. I buy from Buckeye Field Supply, my unit is a standard 5 stage with clear containers for viewing.

For reference my tap water has tds of <200 ppm, my RO gives me an output of about 3 ppm, and after running for a minute the DI gives 0 ppm (for the first few seconds it's higher).

 

[Newreeflady]

Looks good to me. I've thought about adding a 5 micron to the front end but the 1 holds up well for several months with my input water. I'd probably skip the color changing resin since it's not terribly reliable but it's only a dollar more or so. I'd use a tds meter instead or even with color changing resin.

fwiw I find the color-changing feature fairly well useless, too. It seems to change in patches to the orange color, and I see good results on the TDS meter long after the change. I have a good supply of it, so not switching, but just thought I'd chime in that I don't find it helpful, either.

 

[Capt_Cully]

Russ, or anybody,

What's the best way to determine if my membrane is cashed?

It, along with the filters are 18 months old. Way over on the carbon and sediment. 75gpd in a 240 gallon NEW system. That's a TON of water changes and top off.

Obviously, I need to change the filters, but my TDS still reads 0 after dual DI chambers.

If it ain't broke don't fix it?
What gives?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

There are two common signs of a membrane gone bad:
1. Bad rejection rate
2. slowed production

Best thing to do is to first calculate your rejection rate and see what you get. If you're not burning through DI resin quickly chances are you are ok.

Russ