What's happening Here?

Just an update. so I've been running GFO in a reactor since last Tuesday. I started notining algae growing on the sandbed. Phosphate still reads as 0 using the Salifert kit. Seems like the sandbed algae is getting worse. Polyfilter is starting to look brown but no blue that I can see - has only been in the sump since Saturday. I did a 15% water change yesterday. Could the sand algae be from the new bulbs - new Radiums and new VHO's? I replaced them all at the same time. I had the 250W Radiums before and they were a year old, so I replaced and I bought 2 new 110W VHO URI bulbs - 1 Super Actinic, the other one of the new 454nm URI bulbs. Also, the bubbles on my SPS and equipment is not subsiding - perhaps I need to be more patient.

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Patience (and persitence on cleaning things up).

You did several water cahnges with the bad (High TDS) water and some of your coral flesh died and polluted the water in your system. It will take as many as those intial WCs plus a few more to reverse this. So say five or six WCs to reverse things.
For the GFO, if phosphate is in the system (not just in the water), cyano and algase usually start to decline noticeably around the third batch of GFO (my experience). So presuming you are cahnging the GFO weekly, you will notice considerable improvement in about three weeks.
 
I agree that keeping up with water changes is important at this point. I'd also siphon out as much of the slime as is easy to get, to help export nutrients.
 
Thanks all. Regarding the GFO, for a 90 gallon, the instructions stated to use 1 tablespoon per 4 gallons of tank water, so I added approximately 2 cups of GFO. How often should I change it out? I also have a refugium and will pull out some of the macroalgae to export nutrients.
 
I advocate using about 150g per 100 gallons and changing it every few days until you see noticeable improvement in the algae (or cyano) problem you are trying to control/eradicate. Then you can leave it in for a week or so. Although some reefers don't like the aluminum based products becasue there is some possible damage to corals from the dusts from these products, I believe using these products for the first few batches followed by a switch to the GFO on the third or fourth batch helps to put the algae into a faster decline. (it turns pale/whitish in coloration).

***** I don't really have test data to back this up, just experience. ****

I think it has something to with rate of absorption rather than capacity of the media. With the Al based products I can get higher flow rates through the media, so I think it can drop the PO4 levels faster (even if (when) the PO4 level measures ND on the test kit). I beleive the rate of adsorption by the Al-based products is farily constant until it becomes expended.
For the GFO, I believe when it is first placed in the system it has a very high adsorption rate that is not PO4 level dependent. However after a day or two in the system, I think many of the active sites on the GFO become coated and it shifts (from an exponential adsorption rate) to a slower (e.g., first order (I.e., to a PO4 level dependent)) adsorption rate. At this lower adsorption rate while GFO is likely good for maintenance (I.e., running for a week or two or even up to month to counteract regular feedings in a clean system), I don't think its really good for rapidly dropping the levles in a polluted/ problematic algae system at this slower rate. So by changing it out for new media frequently, I think you can push the PO4 level lower in the system much faster.

I hope this info is helpful.
 
Replaced the GFO tonight. Another question. For my SPS that have algae on the tips, would it make sense to cut off the tips to eliminate the algae and encourage growth?
 
I advocate using about 150g per 100 gallons and changing it every few days until you see noticeable improvement in the algae (or cyano) problem you are trying to control/eradicate. Then you can leave it in for a week or so. Although some reefers don't like the aluminum based products becasue there is some possible damage to corals from the dusts from these products, I believe using these products for the first few batches followed by a switch to the GFO on the third or fourth batch helps to put the algae into a faster decline. (it turns pale/whitish in coloration).

***** I don't really have test data to back this up, just experience. ****

I think it has something to with rate of absorption rather than capacity of the media. With the Al based products I can get higher flow rates through the media, so I think it can drop the PO4 levels faster (even if (when) the PO4 level measures ND on the test kit). I beleive the rate of adsorption by the Al-based products is farily constant until it becomes expended.
For the GFO, I believe when it is first placed in the system it has a very high adsorption rate that is not PO4 level dependent. However after a day or two in the system, I think many of the active sites on the GFO become coated and it shifts (from an exponential adsorption rate) to a slower (e.g., first order (I.e., to a PO4 level dependent)) adsorption rate. At this lower adsorption rate while GFO is likely good for maintenance (I.e., running for a week or two or even up to month to counteract regular feedings in a clean system), I don't think its really good for rapidly dropping the levles in a polluted/ problematic algae system at this slower rate. So by changing it out for new media frequently, I think you can push the PO4 level lower in the system much faster.

I hope this info is helpful.

Insightful post--thanks
I would be concerned with the cost of this at 25 dollars for 150 grams that could become quite expensive. I am wondering if a series of 30 per cent water changes along with changing the gfo less often would be more economical and still be as effective?
 
Replaced the GFO tonight. Another question. For my SPS that have algae on the tips, would it make sense to cut off the tips to eliminate the algae and encourage growth?

I've done it with success and I've also had them recover skeletal area from algae without snipping them.If there is a lot of naked skeleton I'd snip it. If it's just a small area,<1/8th inch or so, I might leave it alone. In either case it can take quite a long time for recovery.
 
Insightful post--thanks
I would be concerned with the cost of this at 25 dollars for 150 grams that could become quite expensive. I am wondering if a series of 30 per cent water changes along with changing the gfo less often would be more economical and still be as effective?

Scott,
The thread on regenerating gfo might be of interest in terms of saving some of the cost.
 
Some updates and something interesting. I received my Elos Mg kit today and took a readng. So, my Mg is 1500, which is interesting because AWT said my Mg was 2500, so I think this proves that they meant to put a 1 and not a 2. With that said, 1500 is high - is this a problem?

Also, I pulled out the Poly Filter and there is no blue on it at all - just brown. the filter has been in continuosly since last Saturday, so assuming its been in long enough to detect copper, can I assume I have none?

Tom
 
Magnesium at 1500 ppm doesn't seem to cause trouble, so I wouldn't worry about it. I agree that the copper level in your tank likely is very low. :) I doubt it's a problem at this point.
 
Thanks Jonathan. Looks like I may need to redo the GFO - I might of messed it up when I replaced the first batch, but I can't seem to get a consistent tumbling of the media. the feed pump is a MJ 1200. My first batch I had to turn it way down to maintain a very slight tumbling. My guess is something is clogged somewhere and maybe the media has hardened. Any thoughts? I'm using the basic GFO from BRS - Wonder if I should get the HC?
 
I don't know how to tune the flow on a reactor. Media often does bind together. I wouldn't worry very much.
 
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