Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
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der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
Email sent.
Also, worth noting, when I ran the batchpcb design rules check, it found one spot where clearance failed because a trace was too close to the corner of a square pad. I moved the trace over a bit and it passed. Not something to freak out about but a good reminder to run design rule checks - batchpcb has bigger clearance requirements than seeedstudio which is why I hadn't found this before. I went ahead and uploaded the new board file to the google code site.
chrisfowler99
Premium Member
Interesting. They cleared the board for me with no issues.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
It was one tiny spot, and it was on the sharp corner of a square pad. If a board is going to fail a clearance test, this is about the most harmless way it possibly can.
Also, I wouldn't assume that the manufacturer will actually run a design rules check. I'm sure they make a visual inspection but they're pretty much going to focus on things that would stop the board from being manufactured (i.e. there's no board outline, the layers don't line up, drill file is missing tools, etc) not things that would make the design not work.
Also, I wouldn't assume that the manufacturer will actually run a design rules check. I'm sure they make a visual inspection but they're pretty much going to focus on things that would stop the board from being manufactured (i.e. there's no board outline, the layers don't line up, drill file is missing tools, etc) not things that would make the design not work.
so i got it mostly put together but i cant figure out this part http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Molex/10-89-4063/?qs=k5Usg7mMyeA/WTdyhKjrvw==
and it looks different from the pic has six pins three stacked on three any help
and it looks different from the pic has six pins three stacked on three any help
chrisfowler99
Premium Member
It's a breakaway header. You can literally break off 1x2 sections. You only need 4x2 for either the 5V or the 10V PWM connection. If you're using the CAT4101 driver you want the 5V.
ok almost done but here is my problem my led drivers (350ma buckpuck) are in use on my tank now how do i hook them up with out leaveing my tank with no lights for a while??? question number 2 how do i acually wire the drivers to the board and how do i hook up the lcd??? thanks for the help.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
The LCD literally plugs in to the front of the Typhon board. That's what the 16 pin header along the top of the board is for. You need to use mating connectors of your choice. The "standard" is probably to put a female header on the Typhon and a male pin header on the LCD. That's what I've done in the photos shown earlier in this thread.
As far as connecting the drivers - the Typhon provides two banks of signal pins. They're mushed right next to each other in the 8 x 2 header along the right side of the board. Starting from the bottom, the first four pair are 10v pins, and the second four pair are 5v pins. With buckpucks, you want to use the 5v pins, which means you'll be using the top four pairs of pins to connect the drivers to the Typhon.
First you need to make sure that you actually have dimmable buckpucks. The buckpuck datasheet has diagrams on how to connect various external dimming sources:
http://www.luxdrive.com/download/?dmid=1109
You want to look at either figure 13 or figure 14. The "issue" with buckpucks is that they want an inverted signal (i.e. 5v = off, 0v = on) while the Typhon follows the more conventional standard of 5v = on and 0v = off. So you have a choice:
1) You can wire as in figure 13, which is very straightforward and only involves connecting the signal line from the typhon to the CTRL pin on the buckpuck and making sure they have a common ground. If you do this, you'll need to fake your on/off times in the settings on the Hydra, because the buckpucks will basically flip the signal (i.e. when the Typhon thinks they're on, they'll be off). So if you wanted them to come on at 8 AM and off at 5 PM, you'd set an on time of 5 PM and an off time of 8 AM.
2) You can wire as in figure 14, which involves adding a resistor and a transistor to the circuit to invert the signal. This is a little more involved from the wiring side of things, but it would make the software more straightforward as you can just use the Typhon as nature intended.
As far as connecting the drivers - the Typhon provides two banks of signal pins. They're mushed right next to each other in the 8 x 2 header along the right side of the board. Starting from the bottom, the first four pair are 10v pins, and the second four pair are 5v pins. With buckpucks, you want to use the 5v pins, which means you'll be using the top four pairs of pins to connect the drivers to the Typhon.
First you need to make sure that you actually have dimmable buckpucks. The buckpuck datasheet has diagrams on how to connect various external dimming sources:
http://www.luxdrive.com/download/?dmid=1109
You want to look at either figure 13 or figure 14. The "issue" with buckpucks is that they want an inverted signal (i.e. 5v = off, 0v = on) while the Typhon follows the more conventional standard of 5v = on and 0v = off. So you have a choice:
1) You can wire as in figure 13, which is very straightforward and only involves connecting the signal line from the typhon to the CTRL pin on the buckpuck and making sure they have a common ground. If you do this, you'll need to fake your on/off times in the settings on the Hydra, because the buckpucks will basically flip the signal (i.e. when the Typhon thinks they're on, they'll be off). So if you wanted them to come on at 8 AM and off at 5 PM, you'd set an on time of 5 PM and an off time of 8 AM.
2) You can wire as in figure 14, which involves adding a resistor and a transistor to the circuit to invert the signal. This is a little more involved from the wiring side of things, but it would make the software more straightforward as you can just use the Typhon as nature intended.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
The controller indeed generates PWM signals, but anecdotal evidence suggests that the analog meanwell ELNs work fine with a PWM signal - there are at least a few people out there running them that way. In theory, you could put a low-pass filter (a resistor and a cap) on the output channels and you'd have your analog signal, if you wanted to be a purist.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
No extras right now, sorry.
Regarding your other question on the 328 vs 328P - the P indicates that it features Atmel's picopower technology. I'm not sure of the impact that has, but can tell you that within Arduino circles, the "p" model is the de-facto standard to the point that when people say "328" they really mean "328P".
Regarding your other question on the 328 vs 328P - the P indicates that it features Atmel's picopower technology. I'm not sure of the impact that has, but can tell you that within Arduino circles, the "p" model is the de-facto standard to the point that when people say "328" they really mean "328P".
DWZM,
Just wanted to make sure that there was no drastic difference. I have tried to find the 328P and they are hard to come by. I have found the 238 at Sparkfun. I am also having trouble sourcing the LM7805CT and the LM7810CT. Mouser is out of both of them. Digikey has one and Newark has the other. Is there a suitable replacement that is easily found. What is the hole spacing on the circuitboard for the power jack. Want to source this also. Thanks for a great design and your help..
Just wanted to make sure that there was no drastic difference. I have tried to find the 328P and they are hard to come by. I have found the 238 at Sparkfun. I am also having trouble sourcing the LM7805CT and the LM7810CT. Mouser is out of both of them. Digikey has one and Newark has the other. Is there a suitable replacement that is easily found. What is the hole spacing on the circuitboard for the power jack. Want to source this also. Thanks for a great design and your help..
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
If you find something that has the Arduino bootloader on it, it's probably a 328P, even if it's listed as a "plain" 328. At any rate, the differences don't matter in this application. Basically if you are buying a bootloaded chip from a hobby vendor, you will be all set. You'd probably even be fine with the 168 but there's no reason to buy one IMHO since the savings is typically only a few cents.
The 7805 and 7810 can be any generic 78xx products with the same package. There's no criticality there. You shouldn't have a problem finding something to replace them - read through the thread, we've had a few iterations of looking for parts.
The 7805 and 7810 can be any generic 78xx products with the same package. There's no criticality there. You shouldn't have a problem finding something to replace them - read through the thread, we've had a few iterations of looking for parts.
der_wille_zur_macht
Team RC
For the sake of reference, here are some Mouser parts that would work for the 7810:
512-KA7810AETU
512-KA7810ETU
512-LM7810ACT
595-UA7810CKCSE3
Here are some for the 7805:
511-L7805CV
511-L7805ABV
511-L7805ACV
863-MC7805CTG
These parts all have at least a few thousand in stock. "7805" and "7810" are generic product numbers - the differences between the above parts are generally things like voltage tolerances, temperature ranges, and so on. The Typhon isn't doing anything precise and isn't operating in harsh environments so these differences don't matter.
512-KA7810AETU
512-KA7810ETU
512-LM7810ACT
595-UA7810CKCSE3
Here are some for the 7805:
511-L7805CV
511-L7805ABV
511-L7805ACV
863-MC7805CTG
These parts all have at least a few thousand in stock. "7805" and "7810" are generic product numbers - the differences between the above parts are generally things like voltage tolerances, temperature ranges, and so on. The Typhon isn't doing anything precise and isn't operating in harsh environments so these differences don't matter.
Names Brucey
New member
OK. I am probably just an idiot but I need some help. I have built everything, got my BUB, downloaded the programming and.....nothing. LED lights up on the board, LCD backlight comes on and fades out but nothing on the screen? Buttons appear to be responding as the LCD lighting changes when pressed. Any ideas on what I am doing wrong?
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