Who wants a cheap, simple, Arduino-based LED controller?
- Thread starter der_wille_zur_macht
- Start date
I don't have a typhon board, where do I get that from. It wasn't on the list. I have a arduino duemilanove and the part from the list minus a lcd which I'm looking for.
Qle
New member
I'm looking into this and trying to figure out if it is good for the 48D.
Are you pulsing the 48D so it seem like it is dimming? Does that mean you are treating your LED like a strobe light? At 1A of power, you are switching it on and off at high frequency right? Isn't the purpose of the dimmer to control current and keep it steady?
I haven't tried this, but can would love to have some input from some LED experts and electrical engineer opinions.
reefskinner
New member
If anyone is using the alternate bom that was listed earlier, there is a bit of an error on one of the listed headers. Mouser #538-10-89-4063 is a 2x3 90° header, NOT a 2x4 90°. A quick check, looks like this is correct replacement, but someone needs to double check me. #571-5-102975-4
bd98072
New member
Finally got those Typhon boards ordered.
In the meantime, I've been making a bunch of changes to the software while using my UNO prototyping board. Four buttons, four leds, One-Wire circuit, LCD display, and RTC.
- Changed the menu processing, so that the Menu button runs through the main items, and the Select button gets you into change mode.
- Added support for DS18B20 (with a #define to include the code). Only issue is that in order to access the pin to read the sensor, you have to add a jumper wire and mini cable harness to the board. I'll have some pictures once I "œhack" my board.
- Added gradual ramp-up and ramp-down, so that you don't take all the drivers from all-off to all-on or all-on to all-off instantly. Trying to avoid any type of power surges.
- Added minimum intensity value to the LED channels "“ allows me to keep my blues running at minimum value for night vision.
- Adjusted the way that All:On and All:Off work, so that they just go to the min or max value for the channel. Use All:xxx% to force complete on/off
- Added display of all the values for each channel to the Menu.
Here is the Menu structure as I've modified it:
Main Display: Time, Temp, and LED %
Timer Option
- Timer Mode
- All:On (based on max value for each channel
- All:Off (based on min value for each channel
- All:Override % (ignores min/max channel values)
Data for Each Channel: Name, Start, End, Fade, Min, Max
- Change: Start/End/Fade/Min/Max for the currently displayed channel
Clock Settings: Date and Time
- Change: Month/Day/Year/Hour/Minute
So --- 7 Menu button presses get you through the entire menu system.
Select button allows modification of the current menu item parameters. +/- used to change the values.
If you want a copy of the code, send me a PM with your email address, and I'll send it to you.
Or "¦ If someone has a handy place to post the code, I would be happy to put it there. Don't have a clue as to how to include it in a posting, or if that is even a good idea, or even possible.
Disclaimer: This is preliminary code. I'm still working on it. Many others have made significant contributions. It is not pretty!! There are a mix of coding styles, and I still want to go through and standardize the indentation practices. This is just my view of a way to make the system work the way I want.
Virtually all the credit for this application belongs to others.
In the meantime, I've been making a bunch of changes to the software while using my UNO prototyping board. Four buttons, four leds, One-Wire circuit, LCD display, and RTC.
- Changed the menu processing, so that the Menu button runs through the main items, and the Select button gets you into change mode.
- Added support for DS18B20 (with a #define to include the code). Only issue is that in order to access the pin to read the sensor, you have to add a jumper wire and mini cable harness to the board. I'll have some pictures once I "œhack" my board.
- Added gradual ramp-up and ramp-down, so that you don't take all the drivers from all-off to all-on or all-on to all-off instantly. Trying to avoid any type of power surges.
- Added minimum intensity value to the LED channels "“ allows me to keep my blues running at minimum value for night vision.
- Adjusted the way that All:On and All:Off work, so that they just go to the min or max value for the channel. Use All:xxx% to force complete on/off
- Added display of all the values for each channel to the Menu.
Here is the Menu structure as I've modified it:
Main Display: Time, Temp, and LED %
Timer Option
- Timer Mode
- All:On (based on max value for each channel
- All:Off (based on min value for each channel
- All:Override % (ignores min/max channel values)
Data for Each Channel: Name, Start, End, Fade, Min, Max
- Change: Start/End/Fade/Min/Max for the currently displayed channel
Clock Settings: Date and Time
- Change: Month/Day/Year/Hour/Minute
So --- 7 Menu button presses get you through the entire menu system.
Select button allows modification of the current menu item parameters. +/- used to change the values.
If you want a copy of the code, send me a PM with your email address, and I'll send it to you.
Or "¦ If someone has a handy place to post the code, I would be happy to put it there. Don't have a clue as to how to include it in a posting, or if that is even a good idea, or even possible.
Disclaimer: This is preliminary code. I'm still working on it. Many others have made significant contributions. It is not pretty!! There are a mix of coding styles, and I still want to go through and standardize the indentation practices. This is just my view of a way to make the system work the way I want.
Virtually all the credit for this application belongs to others.
reefskinner
New member
Would someone that has fully assembled one of these, please take a look at my bom list and let me know if there are any issues. I think I have it all sorted out, but would like someone else to verify it. My main concern are the headers. Do I have the correct shapes and configurations? Thanks in advance.
dmastracchio
New member
Batchpcb sent me 2 extra typhon boards. Shoot me a PM if ya need one. First PMs I get will get them. Only 2.
Names Brucey
New member
Ok. Need some help again. I built my controller about a month or so ago and no problem. Now while trying to finally assemble by fixture I did a bonehead move and set the controller down on a sheet of metal while on. Well, zap sizzle, and now I have a controller that gets real hot. The lcd shows life but no program anymore. Trying to figure out what I fried at this point in lieu of having to rebuild an entire board again. I am guessing that I fried the Atmega chip? Any ideas on how to trace this back?
dmastracchio
New member
Both boards claimed for.
TheFishMan65
New member
Names, most likely you fried one of the regualtors IMHO. Check the 2 regulators and make sure they are outputting the correct voltage.
Names Brucey
New member
How? just check and see if both the 5v and 10v pins are outputing correctly? Why would that affect the display for the LCD. Like I said, I see the bars across the lcd light up but the program itself never loads?
TheFishMan65
New member
Yes, just check the voltge. Setting it down probably shorted 2 pins. I usually fry the power chip - no always, bu they are also really easy to check. IS the board socketed and do you have any spare parts?
Names Brucey
New member
Socketed? Don't know what you mean by that. I have a few spare parts. So if i fried a chip then the LCD would still light up and not show the program?
TheFishMan65
New member
The 328 can go into a socket that is socketed to the baord. So you can pry it loose and replace it with a new one. Actually as I think back someone said that the socket keeps the LCD form fitting close enough. So probably not.
So check the voltagess. If they look good see if you can talk to the arduino with the BUB or what ever you have. Maybe you just lost the program, but chances ar eif lost one part you will lost both.
So check the voltagess. If they look good see if you can talk to the arduino with the BUB or what ever you have. Maybe you just lost the program, but chances ar eif lost one part you will lost both.
Names Brucey
New member
OK, yes it is socketed so that isn't a big deal. The 5v output voltage is all over the place. The 10v is spot on. Sooooo, I am guessing I fried the 5v regulator.Not even sure I can get that out!!
TheFishMan65
New member
Well it may have damaged anything it is attached to, but that is the place to start. If you have trouble getting it out you can come visit me and I can help.
bd98072
New member
Anyone have the gerbers for the Typhon board that have succesfully been used by IteadStudio ??
I created a set using what I thought was the correct CAM file, but just received an email today that the drill file (.TXT) had minor problems. I reprocessed everything, and sent another copy of the file, but the new one is the same as the old one as far as I can tell.
Anyway -- I'm just trying to get ahead, just in case there is still a problem. So ... if you have had success with IteadStudio, and still have the files, PM me so that I can send you my email address, and you can send me a copy of your files.
Nothing is ever quite as easy as it should be :sad2:
I created a set using what I thought was the correct CAM file, but just received an email today that the drill file (.TXT) had minor problems. I reprocessed everything, and sent another copy of the file, but the new one is the same as the old one as far as I can tell.
Anyway -- I'm just trying to get ahead, just in case there is still a problem. So ... if you have had success with IteadStudio, and still have the files, PM me so that I can send you my email address, and you can send me a copy of your files.
Nothing is ever quite as easy as it should be :sad2:
Where does the power come for this pin I circled. Nevermind it for the led. but on the right side of the board the 12 pin I haven't soldered yet. Do I just use the first and last 8. So there is just 4 in the middle?
Its written on the board the bottom 4 pair are for 10v "meanwell" the top 4 pair 5v "buck". Does that make sense?
{10v} {5v}
: : : : : : : :
1234 1 2 3 4
