See? This is what I am talking about. A lot of miisinformation about bioballs have been repeated so often they eventually are taken as truth.
I have used bioball filtration and have used it successfully for 5 years in a prior tank.
My opinions have been formed by years of experience professionally maintaining dozens of reef and FO systems. Most of these tanks were installed by a local business that's still quite bioball happy. Some of these tanks do very well with bioballs, but after converting more than eight trickle filters to bare-bottom sumps in the last year alone I feel fairly confident in my position on this. I mentioned in my original post that not everyone with bioballs has problems, instead just that many do and as such it's a system I don't recommend.
Most trickle filters have trays for the filter pads are designed to be easy to remove and then either clean or replace. The one I had before for a reef and now revived for a FOWLR is the MaxiFlo by AGA/Aqueon. Rinsing to clean is as simple as sliding the tray out and running tap water over the filter pad then sliding it back in again. Replacing is also as simple as buying a cheap filter pad and cutting it to size, maybe once every 3 months or so.
I don't like the tray system. It's my experience that in many tanks, flat filter pads clog quicker than filter socks and within a couple days unfiltered water flows over the top. As I've said repeatedly this is a generalization based on my experience and it does work well for some tanks, clearly including yours. I think a better system for trickle filters involves the tall "pre-chamber" with filter socks that overflows into the trickle chamber. This is more complicated and expensive and fewer sump boxes are available like this.
Properly maintained, bioballs DO NOT accumulate debris. And by properly maintained I mean rinsing or replacing the filter pads ONLY. You DO NOT need and in fact SHOULD NOT clean the bioballs themselves. The bioballs sit up above the water level. Water that has been prefiltered cascades over the bioballs. This cascade creates a waterfall effect, washing the bioballs. The end result is that the bioballs are covered with a thin slime of beneficial bacteria, and there is no "debris". After 5 years of just rinsing or replacing the prefilters, the bioballs I had had no debris at all in them.
More power to you if it works for you. I've seen some tanks that do well with them, too. I've also seen plenty of systems where the flat pads allow a lot of detritus to get past, meaning detritus does get trapped in large amounts in the bioballs. The balls are made to have lots of cracks and crevices which do trap debris when it is present. I've seen trickle filters where there's a half inch layer of debris on the floor of the sump, in the space below the bioballs. The design of many sumps prevent this area from being cleaned at all without removing all the bioballs. Some sumps, like the double-chamber ProClear units, have areas that are essentially impossible to clean.
Don't get me wrong. For the new aquarist starting out, I do recommend liverock over bioballs anytime. What I am trying to rectify here is the large amount of vehement misinformation being handed out about bioballs.
This is precisely the same thing that I'm saying. I don't consider it misinformation because I observe it with my own eyes across multiple tanks. Some do well, many do not. You have a tank that does well, so you assume that all will.
The argument against bioballs usually is; it a debri trap. Proper Maintainance would prevent that from overwhelming the system. In this hoby we like to bash things as majority moves away from them.
A system that requires more maintenance is less likely to get adequate maintenance and is therefore more likely to fail. The hobby and industry have determined unequivocally that bioballs are not required for a successful tank, so why add a component that's all liability with no benefit?
agreed, and even on that note LR is worse, its more porous. surface area is the trap...
Live rock put into a trickle filter will have the same problem. We're discussing simply using an adequate volume of live rock in the display tank (or a fuge area) with adequate in-tank circulation to prevent detritus from settling.