Wild and Maricultured SPS Reefers Thread

I always had great succes with Maricultured Bali Acropora. Here in Europe we don't have ORA etc. with aquacultured high $$$ frags, so we depend on hobbyist's frags and Maricultured colonies.

Key is to provide pristine water quality, high random flow and sufficient lighting. Some species are harder to color up, like tri-colors and A. Humilis.

An example of some Bali Maricultured colonies of mine over the last years:

maricul6.jpg


maricul9.jpg


Maricul1.jpg


maricul2.jpg


maricul3.jpg


maricul4.jpg


maricul8.jpg


maricul10.jpg


maricul11.jpg


Regards, Leonardo
 
Hey Leo,
They look good.I've found it's tough to get the same colony colors that they show online.I think they take a little liberty with the photo's.
 
Love the last two pieces Leonardo and this one too. :thumbsup:

Have you found keeping the mari's and wild SPS any more difficult than aquacultured frags etc mate, i don't think there's much diff tbh once you get them past the first week or so in your tank - acros are acros where ever they come from but interested to hear your take on the matter Leonardo when you have time. :)

maricul3.jpg
 
Matt, I would say this is probably an Acorpora Loisettae.

Bigg, I do think that Wildcaps and Maricultures are more difficult (to color up) then frags. Due to the following reasons:

Colony structure. Corals that are used to heavy water movement and heavy lighting from the sun tend to grow differently then aquarium grown colonies. Browning out and STN in the center can occur.

"survival of the fittest" Some strains of corals just adapt very difficult to captive life. When you buy Mariculture of Wildcap it is a hit or miss, when you buy frags from aquaria you know this species can be grown and propagated in closed systems, and can color up also.

Leonardo
 
They're both gorgeous Bello, that's a big home for a little crab lol. The big stag is going to be a stunner, the acro top right appears to have green appearing on it so best hit the whole thing with kalk paste to put a stop to that mate..........;)
 
Hey Leonardo thanks once again for your inspiration as you always post amazing pictures for all to drool over :)

How's the tank looking these days? Can you post a FTS?

Thanks :) Had some mayor setbacks with the reef, but lately found the motivation to pick it up again. Will post an update soon.

Leonardo
 
WOW! Just wanted to say THANK YOU! For sharing totally beautiful livestock shots. Truly amazing Acros. Only thing to say is...OOF! Regards, Pat
 
Leonardo, that loisettea, has it been in your tank for a long time or is it a new acquisition?
I ask because that is a perfect example of a coral that comes in looking incredible and then begins to loose the white centre and develops into a more typically colored acro with a green interior and purple tips..
I guess in a zeo tank, it would keep that coloration.. Or in a lns..
 
Leonardo, that loisettea, has it been in your tank for a long time or is it a new acquisition?
I ask because that is a perfect example of a coral that comes in looking incredible and then begins to loose the white centre and develops into a more typically colored acro with a green interior and purple tips..
I guess in a zeo tank, it would keep that coloration.. Or in a lns..

At the time I made the photo it was about 2 months after import. No problems here with keeping the corallites dark, the center light and the tips blue. Just blast it with light, flow and good control over the nutrients. (not too low/too high).

Leonardo
 
Nice, biggles!!
What's the flowing red stuff, bottom centre? A macro algae?
What lights are you running?

Leonardo, thanks for the info.. When you say 'keep nutrients not too high/low' where do you try to keep n and p?

I just picked up a bunch of Walt Smith's wild Fiji frags and a couple of small colonies. Had to stick them in the tank and run so I haven't had time to take any shots. The Fiji acros always come in with those fantastic pastel yellows, pinks, mauves, etc.. But without zeo I'm not sure it's possible to keep them looking that way..
I'll post some shots as soon as I can..
 
Thanks guys, i don't have a video processing app to attempt color correction etc so obviously the blues and saturation are blown to hell lol. If it actually looked like that in real life i'd suspect someone dropped acid in my coffee.........
I wish i had a DSLR but then if i had that much money i'd order the bloody peninsula to add to the current system :spin1:
Matt, yep that's a cool bright red macro that popped out right where you see it. It appeared months after the arch rock was added, talk about lucky placement lol. It needs chopping back to a 1" stub, thats about 7 weeks growth since the last prune, it's a very pretty nutrient sponge but in the future i'll have to nuke it with hot RO as it's hard to get at to prune without it going everywhere and i already smash acro tips now pruning it let alone when things expand. It also spooks the fish and stops them swimming through the arch when it's 6-7" long like now.
I have a 250W radium over driven along with 4 x 39W T5's (3 x B+ and a KZ purple) Tank is 40x24x18".
 
Leonardo, thanks for the info.. When you say 'keep nutrients not too high/low' where do you try to keep n and p?

You're welcome, no problem. My tanks are Bare Bottom with high flow, combined with RDSB's and very wet skimming. I adjust the nutrient level with observing the colors of the corals and adjust more/less skimming/feeding.
I don't measure NO3 And PO4 often. When I do NO3 is unmeasurable <1 and PO4 <0,03

Leonardo
 
Thanks again, Leonardo..
Each of your responses leads me to another question. :)
You say you adjust nutrients by changing feeding and skimming..
What types of feeding? Fish foods, corals foods, coral supplements like a aminos or micro elements, or all of the above?
Have you ever used LEDs over a tank?
 
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