Will a dry QT kill all the disease?

[mxm]

Well, I lost my fish in qt to an unknown disease, probably Uronema marinum.
Copper, prazipro and metro didn't work.

So now I want to start over. I washed the qt tank and everything else in tap water and now it's drying in the sun.

Is this enuf to kill wtv killed my fish? Once it's fully dry?

And for my second questions, should I bother doing a cycle or just placing new fish right away?

 

[Dmorty217]

Let the tank dry for 24 hrs completely then you will be fine. You have to have a cycle otherwise there is no filtration capacity on the QT system and you will be forced to use a ammonia detoxifier since the tank won't be able to process ammonia being no cycle has taken place, thus no bacteria population

 

[ca1ore]

Just make sure the tank and any equipment is completely dry.

 

[Midnightt]

If it was Ich my understanding is that the eggs will not die from being dry. The only way to kill them from what I was told is to bleach them or to boil them. I had Ich survive a vinegar bath, fresh water soak, and a good scrub.

However, after the second round of treatment I bleached everything. And, so far so good after 3 months.

Good Luck!

 

[Clownfish Chris]

If it was Ich my understanding is that the eggs will not die from being dry. The only way to kill them from what I was told is to bleach them or to boil them. I had Ich survive a vinegar bath, fresh water soak, and a good scrub.

However, after the second round of treatment I bleached everything. And, so far so good after 3 months.

Good Luck!

Your description defiantly shows best practice but it is factually incorrect. All stages of Ich will not survive 24 hours without water. See Snorvich's thread on the TTM here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2388428

Post #3:
""¢o Cleaned/Dried Equipment rule: You must clean and dry all equipment between transfers
"¢o Drying: Research has confirmed that simply allowing the equipment to dry AND stay remain completely dry for just 24 hours will kill any remaining Ich life-cycle stages. This means that you must allow time first for (a) all little remaining spots of water to evaporate and then (b) the equipment to then stay that way for 24 hours; this means you really should allow for no less than 48 hours total of drying to ensure this happens"

I point this out because it is important that we understand why we do things. With a complete understanding, we are more confident and more able to react appropriately to situations as they come up.

 

[gone fishin]

I agree get the QT and equipment completely dry for 24 hrs. and you will be good to start again.

I believe most folks will cycle a QT. I do not I rely on prime and WC's as well as an ammonia alert badge. Good luck

 

[firemountain]

To the OP...I had to break down my QT due to Uronema. I first bleached and scrubbed down my tank. Then I used vinegar to neutralize any bleach residue. Dried it for 24 hours.

I then filled the tank with fresh water and added a generous amount of prime...like 5x the recommendation. I let the tank run for 48 hours. Then I drained the tank and filled it with saltwater and let it run. Now I am cycling the tank with DR. Tims Nitifiying bacteria and his ammonia.

Just a heads up....I have seen residual water be present after 24 hours in the past while performing the TTM. I now put all of my equipment in front of a high powered fan when drying. If you don't use a fan....I would definitely wait 48 hours.