Will the Color Return on My Blue Tort and Birdsnest??

[Bemmer]

I have had a Bennett blue tort and a birdsnest in my 120g tank. Honestly, the water conditions have not be optimal but I plan to improve the situation with my new larger tank. I have more water circulation and better water quality. So my question is will the color come back on my blue tort and the birdsnest with better lighting and water perameters.?

BTW, they are both growing.

 

[rutz81]

yes, assuming water conditions improve as you say they will

 

[Horace]

You can take any coral so long as it is still alive and return it to its natural color. It just takes propper conditions and time

 

[hogpark7430]

Not my post but I was wondering the same thing thanks.

 

[SEAMONSTER]

Not my post either but I am having the same problem with my birdsnest. I recently purchased new 150 W 20K hamilton MH bulbs (2) to replace my old ones(150W x 2, 14 K). The light is significantly brighter. Since the time that I got the new lights, the birdnest looks kinda bleached. It still has polp extension on all branches though.

 

[Bemmer]

Kurt and Rutz,
When you are saying proper conditions, you are referring to water perameters in check, MH lighting that is new or newer, protein skimming, and good water movement. Is that right?

Seamonster,
Your birdsnest may be bleaching because it is getting too much light with the new lights. Did you acclimate the lights to your tank. Meaning shorten the lighting cycle until your corals are used to the newer brighter lights. Or you could try moving the birdsnest down in the tank to get it farther from the direct light. I put my corals on the bottom of the tank until they get used to the stronger lighting. I will watch them for about a week and then move them to their permanent placement.

R-

 

[boomsticks]

I have heard for optimal growth use lights in the 10K to 14K range For the bleaching you should probably lower its position in the tank see if that helps

 

[shelburn61]

less light, higher nutrients will help bleached corals come back. think browning out

conditions in different tanks can still be "proper" while producing different color variations in the same coral based on differences in light, nutrient levels, etc.

 

[SEAMONSTER]

Thanks Beamer. i havn't thought of that. I am afraid to move the coral because i do not want to shock it. It has been in the same place for a long time. is it alright to do that? Can I place it on the sand? It is glued to a live rock face (side) If I position it so the live rock is on the sand, the coral itself would get a different angle of light on it (Not all branches will be recieving light or current). I really dont want to shorten the light time because my timers are a ***** to work with (hard to get precise with those little tabs) LOL! It's been on the same lighting time forever! If I do shorten it, how much should I cut off? halides are currently on for 11 hours. Actinics are on for 12 and a half.

 

[wentreefgirl]

Go to home depot and buy window screening and layer them in many layers over your tank. Under the lights. Leave them on for a bit and then take one off. Then keep that one on for a bit and then take another off and so on. Not sure how long they recommend to keep on before loosing a layer.

 

[Horace]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7564445#post7564445 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SEAMONSTER
Thanks Beamer. i havn't thought of that. I am afraid to move the coral because i do not want to shock it. It has been in the same place for a long time. is it alright to do that? Can I place it on the sand? It is glued to a live rock face (side) If I position it so the live rock is on the sand, the coral itself would get a different angle of light on it (Not all branches will be recieving light or current). I really dont want to shorten the light time because my timers are a ***** to work with (hard to get precise with those little tabs) LOL! It's been on the same lighting time forever! If I do shorten it, how much should I cut off? halides are currently on for 11 hours. Actinics are on for 12 and a half.

11 hours is too long for halides to be on IMO. I would not run halides for longer than 7-8hrs, especially if your running 10ks. If your noticing colors bleaching, it is likely reducing the photo period of your halides to 7-8hrs will help quite a bit. Actinics are fine.....

 

[Justin/TiV]

I agree...11 hours is too long. I've heard of the screen trick as well, but since you've allready put them under bulbs...prolly not much use now. Just reduse your photo period and I think you'll be fine

 

[SEAMONSTER]

Ok., I'll shorten the lighting period. Is ok to do that right away? Down to 8 hours? BTW, I found a way to move the birdsnest without changing the angle of light hitting the branches too much. Thanks guys!

 

[SEAMONSTER]

My apologies Bemmer. I did not mean to jump on your forum (thread?) to answer some of the same questions and concerns that I have. Thanks for the sound advice! I apologize also for not answering your questions. Check out your water quality. I had a battle with hair and bubble algae for a while.(Sure indicator of water quality going downhill) Purchased a sea hare (died in 3 weeks, Got 10 turbos, 7 died since). So those solutions were not going to work for me. I simply did a 5 gallon water change on my 60 every week for 4 weeks. The hair and bubble algae is nonexistent now! I continue to do a 5 gallon change every 2 weeks. Take care!