Won't have pics for a few weeks. So... down at the bottom I've posted my diagrams I gave to the vendor. They might help (though they do have a couple of minor inaccuracies). So I'll try to explain.
It’s a pretty small sump. Particularly in the vertical plane â€"œ only 10†high. Inside my stand the footprint of available space is a little over 2†wide by 1†deep. The challenge is that there is only 17†of vertical space. And there was no procuring a bigger stand â€"œ the wife likes this one. So I’m working with the space that allows.
My REAL challenge was not the sump, but finding a decent â€"œ but not too powerful â€"œ skimmer to fit under the stand. And any decision of “fit†has to include the vertical space needed to remove and replace the cup. That turns a lot of 17†skimmers into 22†skimmers real fast. So I settled on an in-tank skimmer, the Tunze 9002. But more on that in a minute…
The sump has 5 sections. The main flow of water will come into the bubble tower on the back left, and exit that tower through the teeth at the bottom, into the skimmer section. The bubble tower can hold live rock, GFO, GAC, filter socks, whatever. The skimmer section obviously holds the 9002. Water exits the skimmer section into the return section (back right) through an adjustable height bubble trap. The middle pane of the trap can be raised or lowered, controlling the height of the water in the skimmer section. This is needed because the skimmer cannot be raised more than an inch or so, and still have its cup be able to be removed. So the middle pane of the bubble trap controls water height to tune the skimmer, rather than moving the skimmer up and down. Notice that the leftmost pane of the bubble trap does not have its gap at the base of the sump, but instead an inch up from that. That’s just to keep any heavy particulates in there trapped for easy removal.
The return section is pretty typical, sized to hold an Eheim 1250. I REALLY wanted an external pump to reduce heat transference to the water. But I learned that ALL submersible pumps transfer their heat to the water, even when externally run. And there were no quite, non-submersible pumps that I could find with flow low enough for my application (I’m targeting about 150 gph, which I should get once I slap a SCWD on the return line).
The fifth section is the fuge, seen in front. Water will come in off a “T†from the main drain line coming into the bubble tower. I assume I’ll drop the water in to the far left in the picture, allowing it to flow across the width of the fuge and spill into the return by way of the teeth in the upper right. Its 2†width should make it easy to light with a 40 watt, dual T8 aquarium light that I’ve already got. The back wall of the fuge, which separates it from the rest of the sump, will be black acrylic, to cut down on light spillover, and hopefully reduce algae growth in other parts of the sump.
And there are a few other items worth noting. The 1x1/2†brace is in the middle of the front fuge section â€"œ necessary to keep the 2’ wide fuge from bowing. At the bottom of the rightmost baffle of the bubble trap, and on the top of the leftmost baffle, are two probe holders. There is also a line holder in the top, back right of the return section for attaching things like 2-part solution pump tubing, and ATO and auto w/c lines. And also, the round hole is in the back, is cut for an IceProbe. Yes, I know they are reputed to be of little value, but I’ve decided to try one anyway. Long story.
The fuge will hold 5.2 gallons, or about 18% of the DT size. The total sump overall, could go as low as 8.8g, but should normally operate at around 9.5g, or 33% of DT size. At its highest normal operational level, there should still be another 1.8g of space unfilled. I’m estimating my back flow in drain and return lines, and return siphon of tank water (with returns 1†under the DT water surface) to be approximately 1.3 gallons. That gives me a slim ½ gallon room for error.
I think that should about cover it. Thanks for asking! ‘Tis exciting stuff!