1,200 gallons of fun!

So I decided to put up some crown molding in this room to hide and blend the Sheetrock with the concrete walls. I think that it looks better also.

This is a picture of a nailing backer that I made from a 2 x 4 stud. It is by the outlet for the water fill for salt mixing and the control/power wire conduit.

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Same location with the molding in place, mud work done and some silicone to seal it.

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Some shots of the room ready for paint.

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So... it has been way to long, but lets get started on the quarantine tank.

This will be my first attempt to have a wood box hold water.

We will start with the sump.
Sorry no diagram to share, but some similarities to the display sump.

The sump will be 2' (61cm) x 4' (122cm) x 18" (46cm) this is about 90 gal (340l). The plan is to run it with about 75 gal (283l) set by the hight of the overflow. 1st section skimmer, 2nd split with maybe DSB and algae filter, 3rd return pump, ATO sensor, water change section.


This is a sheet of 3/4" (19mm) and about 1/2 sheet of 1/2"(12.7mm) of plywood.


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Some parts of the wood have warped but I think that can be fixed.

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The water storage/quarantine area is starting to shape up. Got some paint on the walls and new lights.

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The floor will need some work.
 
I thought the floor in this room would have to take some abuse and get water on it on a regular basis. I decided to go with this and add the ANTI-SKID coating for safety. I got it tinted in a tan that I thought would go well with the walls we will see.


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Quarantine sump

Quarantine sump

So I'm using these to hold the wood on my projects together.


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They have a pilot hole drilled and countersunk.


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The sump has a lot of work left before it will hold water but, this is what it looks like after being drilled and screwed together.


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the middle section has a removable divider.


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skimmer area designed to keep water level constant.



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It has a removable section for cleaning if need be.


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The sump will hold about 90gal (340l) The dimensions are 4' (1.22m) * 2' (60cm) * 18" (45cm). The skimmer is raised off the bottom with an overflow height of 16" (40cm). It's divided by the middle section with a height of 17" (43cm).



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The return pump section is divided by a height of 15"(38cm) and should allow about .4 gal (1.5l) of evaporation before the ATO refills.


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Nice work. I've fiberglassed a couple plywood sumps. Be darn sure you have everything coated. The hardest to seal is the bottom of the vertical sections, such as over under baffles, and your slots there. Maybe tip it up and use a mirror to check when done. Good idea also to bondo or putty and voids in the plywod at the cut ends.
Keep it up!
 
wow, after all these years, this hobby still amazes me. including the great ideas reefers come up with. hope it works out great.
 
So, how does one water proof and make a wood box water tight with out doing a more common pour method? Where the tank is rotated and fiberglassed and epoxied on one side at a time.

That method will not be feasible on the larger tank so I'm attempting to do the same with the sump to see how it goes.



I have decided to go with a product off of ebay to coat the tank and sumps.


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I first did some sanding and then disassembled the sump. I then did a clear coat with 5% acetone added to the epoxy to thin it out and penetrate the wood better. The sides on each piece have been coated once and the ends have two coats. The fan is attached to a 8" (20 cm) line vented to the outside of the house. There is a window in the up stares open slightly for fresh air to enter the house. The heater was turned on after 12hr. This should have given the acetone time to evaporate and will speed of the cure time of the epoxy.


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I placed the wood on plastic cups of different sizes to maximize space.


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The plan for sump construction is a single clear coat with 5% acetone.
This is used to penetrate the wood.
Sand all wood.
Second color coat with 5% acetone.
Sand second time.
Assemble wood with the MAX BOND THIXOTROPIC.
Sand if needed.
Finlay a third color coat with no acetone in the mix.


This is the first coat. You can see in this pic the epoxy has had good penetration. There is almost no epoxy on the top of the wood.

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Sand all parts. My coating job is not the best and as you can see it has had some drips that need to be removed.

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The flat parts with no corners allows sanding to be easily done when they have not been assembled.

Currently I'm using 50 grit on this rig to sand the wood. That is not a normal shop vac. It's a certified hepa vac used in lead abatement. I also used it during grinding the floor and drywall work. Info and pics of the floor later. It captures any dust it sucks in and makes for very little airborne dust.


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Some of the parts did not get the penetration that I would of hoped for. I had failed to mix the epoxy during the application of the first mixed batch. It seamed as though the acetone had separated and left the thicker epoxy on the bottom. During the application of the second batch I gently mixed after each pour and it worked out better.


It's hard to see in the pic, but this part has more epoxy on the top of the wood. It has been sanded.

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It amazes me at the amount of epoxy pulled in to the cut ends of the plywood.
after two coats this is just staring to fill in. I will put two more coats on during the first color stage.

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WATER STORAGE.......

This is a pic outside the garage. They sould just fit down the stairs into the basment. 450 gal total. (1.7 kl)

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