1,200 gallons of fun!

Ordered some supplies for the setup.

I have gotten the water storage/makeup and quarantine tank room walls and ceiling stripped. They had a combination of chip board, osb and dry wall on them. I now have access to do some rewiring in the room. There are two separate circuits that run in this room that will not be tied to the display room sub panel. They will power the quarantine tank. I will later run power from the display room to run the water storage/makeup.


55 gal (208 l) tank for reference.

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This door will lead to the display room.

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Now to go shut some breakers off and run some wire.
 
Started to make some good progress again.

I have the wiring for the quarantine and hospital tanks done.

dcp_3415.jpg



I added a wall outlet to this wall.
You can never have to many outlets can you?

I also replaced the door leading to the display room. This door now has a frame and swings toward the wall. This required me to move the light switch in the display room as it would have been behind the door. I rerouted the light switch that was previously in the wall that was removed next to the other light switch entering the room.


dcp_3417.jpg



A door has also been added to the bottom of the stairs leading to this section of the basement.

dcp_3416.jpg



Water storage will be next to stairway door along this wall. plumbing and wire conduit will be ran above the ceiling.

dcp_3426.jpg



Added an exhaust vent to the room in the ceiling above the location of the quarantine tank. Air to the room will enter under the door way.

dcp_3425.jpg
 
Closeup of the outlets for quarantine and hospital tanks.

Timer that will control the main lighting and outlet. The "15" is the number of the circuit breaker that it is connected to.

dcp_3418.jpg


Wall Switches and timer for the fuge light.

dcp_3419.jpg


The wall outlet for fuge and Ca reactor (no switch).

dcp_3421.jpg


Outlets for wall switches. These are on circuit #9. Looks like I forgot to label SW3 it will be for the skimmer.

dcp_3422.jpg


The hospital tank outlet doesn't have a switch.

dcp_3428.jpg



I need to get the wire conduit and water storage plumbing finished, install the ceiling and start to mud the walls. Then some paint and trim.
 
IMO you really should put another valve on the other end of your backflow preventer leading from your tank. Over the years I've had to replace a bunch of those BFP. A second valve would assist in replacement.
 
You may want to consider something besides those Intermatic digital timers. I have one controlling my exaust fan and it will randomly reset the clock back to 12:00pm. Maybe I just got a bad one but I have read stories where people had the same issue. The programming is still there but since it goes back to manual, the program does not run. just a FYI.

Gil
 
tgfrench, are you referring to this check valve or the one in the diagram on page 4?




dcp_2369.jpg







gilweb, Thanks for the heads up on the timer. I was unaware of that type of problem with them and will keep it in mind if I start to have problems with it.
 
This very similar to the system I'm planning for the home we are building now. I'm looking forward to seeing how this progresses!
 
I hope you get enough flow out of that. I run a hammerhead and a dart on two closed loops plus have 2 genx for returns on my 400g. I am going to replace the dart with another hammerhead because flow is too low for me. I thought I would have lots of flow but I overestimated the impact those pumps would have on such a large volume of water.
 
tgfrench, Do to the location of the check valves IMO it's not worth the $75 to add ball valves in those locations. The check valves that are in place have unions on them. I would estimate that the piping holds 1- 1 1/2 gal (3.8l-5.6l) of water so during the time of cleaning/replacement the water will drain and be held in the room sump without issues.


jeno, your comment as well as others on my flow do have me concerned. Are your pumps running continuously or are they being pulsed and controlled by a VFD?
 
Jeno,
What kind of head is your Dart seeing? What size suction and discharge piping? elbows? IME, plumbing friction and head loss can eat a Darts flow. I always upsize the plumbing 1 or 2x to aleviate this.
HTH
 
I am going to be building a new house in a few years and adding an in wall set up at that time. I really appreciate guys like you that take the time to go into such detail for the rest of us on your build process. This project is looking good and I am looking forward to the rest of your build. Thanks again for your time.
 
Quite amazing project!
Question about the plumbing: shouldn't you be concerned about the usage of copper tubes regarding contamination?

This was brought up and answered earlier in the thread. The copper is all before his RO unit so that will take care of any contamination, the copper is just his house water lines. All pipes for the tank will be PVC.
 
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