Here is the temp before I installed the fan. https://vimeo.com/173846778
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1000 Gallon Build- Here we go- Lots of Pictures
- Thread starter Socaltoaz
- Start date
ADVRESOURCE
New member
Good investigative work. All the fan talk around your sump was a little concerning. You definitely found the culprit. Exhaust fans in the hood. Not evaporative cooling on your water. Although, any fan mounted above your water will have an evaporative effect. Note about exhaust fans, which you probably know, blow fans out of your hood to suck out the hot air. Or one in and one out to create flow. Depending on how air tight you hood, you may have to create flow.
Temp this morning is 82.3. Almost one degrees colder in just one night. The hood is not airtight. We purposely left plenty of space which is why I'm surprised at the excessive heat. Regardless, exhaust fans with a couple of smaller fans should solve the issue. I'm hoping to get down to 80 degrees in a few days.
ADVRESOURCE
New member
Next step....heaters!
cleanmyaquarium
New member
Did my post help you diagnose the issue?
If so, you owe me a beer and a tour if I ever come to town.
:fun2:
I did put a fan in the sump but did hook up the exhaust fan above the tank. Thank you for your help.
slief
RC Sponsor
Glad to hear the temps are coming down. It's amazing what fans and ventilation above the tank will do for the tank temps. My light soffit has a 10" rotron fan that ducts the hot air from above the tank outside of the house. It keeps my soffit nice and cool. Heck, even when I ran halides, it kept the temps above the tank near the house temp. I figured you didn't need a chiller. Especially with your house temps. We have similar equipment and I let my tank temps run their own course. My max temp is 82 which is fine by me. In 6 years of running it that way, my tank has thrived. In fact, my best coral growth is in the summer months when the tank is at it's warmest.
Thanks Scott. Right now my temp with the lights on today- the highest it got was 82. It should drop further. The reason I never got a chiller was after talking to you. Anyways- I'll post an update in a few days. I'm hoping to be at 80 which in the Arizona heat- I'll take any day.
JamesHolt
Active member
Well you are cooling down a small lake..:spin2:
Ricardo18
New member
All 8 Radions are set to this
All 8 Radions are set to this
If you copy/paste this gooble-da -speak in the advanced section, it will also show in graph form.
Fallback ON
tdata 05:58:00,0,0,0,0,0,40,40,40,50,0,0,0,0
tdata 08:26:00,0,0,35,25,25,45,45,45,75,0,0,0,0
tdata 12:42:00,0,0,70,25,25,100,100,100,60,0,0,0,0
tdata 16:34:00,0,0,40,0,0,35,100,100,35,0,0,0,0
tdata 20:59:00,0,0,20,0,0,0,100,100,0,0,0,0,0
tdata 22:58:00,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0
All 8 Radions are set to this
If you copy/paste this gooble-da -speak in the advanced section, it will also show in graph form.
Fallback ON
tdata 05:58:00,0,0,0,0,0,40,40,40,50,0,0,0,0
tdata 08:26:00,0,0,35,25,25,45,45,45,75,0,0,0,0
tdata 12:42:00,0,0,70,25,25,100,100,100,60,0,0,0,0
tdata 16:34:00,0,0,40,0,0,35,100,100,35,0,0,0,0
tdata 20:59:00,0,0,20,0,0,0,100,100,0,0,0,0,0
tdata 22:58:00,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0
Bumsparadise
New member
Though I do not own Radions, I have been researching LEDs. Ecotech seems to have a incredible R&D team that makes me lean towards the Radion. They have developed a lighting schedule that is beter than or comparable to halide or florescent. Here is the link to the study:
http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Ecotech_CoralLab_WP1.pdf
http://ecotechmarine.com/news/ecotech-marine-launches-coral-lab
D2Mini (one of the best out there IMO) has been using the lighting schedule with a lot of success. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2570484&page=17
It seems that the schedule is on a 9 hour period, which you can run earlier or later than the heat of the day. Anyways, hope it helps. Love the tank btw!
http://ecotechmarine.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/Ecotech_CoralLab_WP1.pdf
http://ecotechmarine.com/news/ecotech-marine-launches-coral-lab
D2Mini (one of the best out there IMO) has been using the lighting schedule with a lot of success. http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2570484&page=17
It seems that the schedule is on a 9 hour period, which you can run earlier or later than the heat of the day. Anyways, hope it helps. Love the tank btw!
ADVRESOURCE
New member
Your lighting requirement will differ from other setups due to depth of water, tank inhabitants, and proximity of fixture to your water. Apogee makes a hand held PAR meter that you can use to characterize your light intensity at various places in your tank. Rocks and coral will shade and you'll need to adjust coral placement, trim and light intensity. I recommend trying a generic setting with higher blue and deep blues, low for green and red, uv based on how bright you like the tank to look. Is there a light wizard that you can use to adjust individual colors?
Any full tank photos to share?
Any full tank photos to share?
ADVRESOURCE
New member
The echo tech marine article is good. The light scheme uses high uv, blue and deep blue. Red, white green low. Violet middle. They grow on a very consistent level using egg crate. Also, the don't mix Lps and sps since they want optimal growth and color and light intensity requirement differ significantly.
Our reef lighting is complex due to mixing the reef with Lps, sps, and softies with varying lighting, flow and temperature requirements.
The do describe everything in lighting with respect to PAR. I highly recommend an apogee par meter for relative pAR measurements.
Our reef lighting is complex due to mixing the reef with Lps, sps, and softies with varying lighting, flow and temperature requirements.
The do describe everything in lighting with respect to PAR. I highly recommend an apogee par meter for relative pAR measurements.
ADVRESOURCE
New member
Seems that the lfs keeps their coral under t5's with egg crate below lights running at 150 to180 par. Hate to bleach corals that may already be stressed from transport and collection. Lps and softies get moved away from center and below the level of the egg crate. I keep the top of my rock work between 300 and 400 par. Shadowing and depth make par within the tank somewhat unpredictable . Areas that look bright to the naked eye may have low par. Thus,I purchased an apogee. I match par when I purchase coral and then slowly increase par to acclimate coral for positioning in my dt. Other folks place coral low in dt and move up to the desired location.
Thanks for the references guys. Will read them tonight.
On an unrelated note- I saw a scorpion in my hood. As I tried for grab it, it fell in the tank and is now stuck on a powerhead and slowly being chewed up. Will this cause any problems with its poison leaking out? I tried to fish it out but it's too late. It's about 3/4 of the way chewed up and I can't get access to it.
Problem or don't worry about it?
On an unrelated note- I saw a scorpion in my hood. As I tried for grab it, it fell in the tank and is now stuck on a powerhead and slowly being chewed up. Will this cause any problems with its poison leaking out? I tried to fish it out but it's too late. It's about 3/4 of the way chewed up and I can't get access to it.
Problem or don't worry about it?
Ouch! Something I've never thought of as a threat or potential issue.. Scorpions in tanks. Good luck, being from Michigan, I have zero advice if this is an issue or not. My mind goes to making sure you're running carbon, but I have no idea how much/strength of poison a scorpion has.
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