210 Mixed Reef

Thanks guys.

I had to modify the stand to accommodate a last minute change in plans. I decided to use a 40 breeder for a sump instead of a 55. I didn't realize the 55 being so narrow would produce noise due to the flow rate I was going to use. The real problem was, I didn't design the stand to be able to fit a sump wider than 12". A 40 breeder is 18". I removed the two rear columns and replaced them with a wider column in the middle. This increased the span between columns allowing me to slide in the 40 breeder. I will be painting it and applying polyurethane over the next two days.

The best part was a certain retailer always seems to have $1/gallon when I need it. $40 for a 40 breeder? Okay! The 40 I have on hand is already drilled for a frag tank, so that one was out of the question as a sump.

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Coming along nicely. You're making me want to get off my a$$ and finish my build! Are you going to leave the overflow clear, or line it with some acrylic?
 
Thanks.

Coming along nicely. You're making me want to get off my a$$ and finish my build! Are you going to leave the overflow clear, or line it with some acrylic?

I try to get one thing done everyday so I am always making process. It makes it hard waiting on stuff in the mail though. I've been thinking about the overflow color, as all my acrylic ones are black. I don't really have a lot of room in there to add anything and I don't think there is a paint I can use that can be exposed to the water, and if there is it may wear off. So I think it may just have to stay clear.
 
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Sump is built. Intake from tank is on left with skimmer. L is the return chamber. Drilled for 2" bulkhead to reeflo dart. Return will have a T to feed fuge on right which will overflow back into the return.

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I have pretty much everything to build my LED fixture, although I am not in a hurry as I plan to do that while the tank is cycling. However, I wanted to see how my concept would look and make sure that the 60 degree optics would give me enough spread to cover the tank. I modeled the fixture and spread in Sketchup. The fixture will be 64"x10" and will be trimmed with a black laminate.

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Here are closer up models of the fixture. I will be using lamicoid to hide the wiring and then a 3/16" piece of acrylic or glass for a splash guard. I didn't model them, but will be using 1/8" standoffs to space the lamicoid and splash guard away from the heat sink. I am planning to hang this unit. I'm not even 100% sure I'm building it this way, but that's the best part about 3D modeling, you don't have to build it to see it.

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Tested out the custom CAT4101 driver boards with a string of LEDs to make sure it worked. Test was a flying success. These things are so bright, there was no point in taking a picture with them on. Just take my word that they worked :) Here is the prototype.

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Finally an update.

I plumbed the tank yesterday and gave the system a test run. Went pretty well. Spent a little time adjusting the overflow and need to make one adjustment to accommodate a leak (dang threaded pipe), shorten the sump intake pipes, and get the open channel cap threaded for an air line.

Great news is the stand held up like a champ. I knew it would, but I always get nervous that first time filling the tank.

And of course, more pictures.

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In the interim, I have been working on redesigning my LED rig. I found a similar rig as the one I was planning and the light spread didn't work as well as my renderings show. There was too much spot lighting for my likes. Having said that, I have decided to use channel instead of the heatsinks for a mounting surface to help spread the LEDs around. I am working on new renderings, but before I could do that, I wanted to come up with my array configuration. Here it is.

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I had trouble getting the bean drains tuned in just right with a ball valve so I decided to swap it out for a gate valve to see if that provided the precision needed to dial in the siphon channel. I have not tested the system since installing the new valve.

I also picked up some LC to soak the BRS dry rock to take care of the phosphates before they become a problem in the DT. I don't have a hanna phosphate checker so I may just have to wing it or try to borrow one.

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The lights will work out well. I have Orphek led lights over a 300 gallon sps reef with very good results
 
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