220 Gallon - Seeking Advice

Osric

New member
I am planning out a new 220 gallon tank for my home office, and am keen to get advice on all aspects of the system. I have kept a (much) smaller tank for quite a few years so I am prepared to commit to the costs and time for the larger tank, but since my experience is confined to a 34-Gallon all-in-one, I may have a lot to learn about big system design.

I am thinking of interior dimensions of 72" wide x 30" deep x 24" tall, with the back glass cut down to create a coast-to-coast overflow at the 24" mark; the remaining 3 sides and overflow rising to 25" or 26" tall.

I envision the overflow itself as a box on the back of the tank that is about 6" tall, and about 4" deep, stretching the entire length of the aquarium with 1" Schedule 80 bulkheads in 3 drain holes drilled in the bottom of the overflow box at the left end of the tank as viewed from the front. The plumbing from these bulkheads will run directly to my basement which is why they all need to be on the left end of the overflow box.

For return plumbing, I was thinking a single return bulkhead just under the overflow box to the right of the drainage holes in the overflow box, also fitted with a 1" Schedule 80 bulkhead.

If there was some compelling advantage, I would be willing to consider building the overflow box inside the tank, but overall I prefer having it on the back if both are good designs - what do you think?

If Eurobracing offers a significant strength advantage, I would consider it as this tank is going to be inside cabinetry. However I generally prefer rimless, if it's not going to be a problem.

I plan to put 3-4 propeller pumps (vortechs) on the rear glass underneath the overflow box, and would like the tank capable of withstanding front-to-back waves and have sufficient height that the waves can't overflow the front or side edges of the tank ... and am wondering if I've planned sufficient glass height above the overflow for that. I'm also interested in how people decide whether their tank can handle the kind of wave action that these pumps are capable of making.

Thanks in advance for your input!
 
Truly I hope to get some advice.

I plan to put a sea turtle, hammerhead shark, and a moray eel in my tank. 220 is big enough for that, right?

Osric
 
What reef tank books are you using to formulate your plans?

You would not want your return to enter the tank below the waterline, else every time the pump is turned off that much water would drain down into the sump.

You can do coast to coast or you can use what several people have been opting for lately with just a few holes drilled through the top into an external overflow with a small basket on the inner side of the tank - almost invisible.

You can go rimless but this will require thicker glass = greater expense.

Read as many build threads as you can to see what is new and what peoples' rationale is for doing things the way they do.

Dave.M
 
What reef tank books are you using to formulate your plans?

I haven't bought any books lately. My current library consists of The Conscientous Marine Aquarist, Natural Reef Aquariums, The New Marine Aquarium, and The Reef Aquarium Vol 1 and 3. I have some other books I like less but these are my primary references.

I'd be interested in recommendations!

You would not want your return to enter the tank below the waterline, else every time the pump is turned off that much water would drain down into the sump.

Fair point, I'll have to run the plumbing up and down through the box on the back instead so that I can break the siphon closer to the top water level. I plan to install the tank too close to the wall to run the return plumbing behind the tank.

You can do coast to coast or you can use what several people have been opting for lately with just a few holes drilled through the top into an external overflow with a small basket on the inner side of the tank - almost invisible.

Yes, I considered this design too - asked my aquarium builder what they think is preferable. This design seems slightly more disaster proof, but doesn't actually save me any space as I intend to have propeller pumps on the back glass anyway.

You can go rimless but this will require thicker glass = greater expense.

Read as many build threads as you can to see what is new and what peoples' rationale is for doing things the way they do.

I'll do some more searching.

thanks!
Osric
 
Having a large amount of wave action will necessitate a stronger tank and bonding method. You may want to do thicker glass and extra bracing. Euro bracing, cross bracing and full length strips of glass siliconed to the bottom seams. Big wave action could use some extra strength for peace of mind.
Wave action front to back will be very fast. Why not side to side?
 
Wave action front to back will be very fast. Why not side to side?

Because I don't want to have to have the propeller pumps and wiring visible at the sides of the tank. I considered closed loop but after much reading decided that on balance the prevailing wisdom is that the vortech style pumps have taken over and are probably the way to go, if you don't want wires visible inside the tank (which I don't).

Osric
 
You can do coast to coast or you can use what several people have been opting for lately with just a few holes drilled through the top into an external overflow with a small basket on the inner side of the tank - almost invisible.

Do you mean the H2Overflow baskets? I'm not convinced this is better than a coast-to-coast design ... do you think it is better, or even as good?

Osric
 
I think it allows for sounder tank construction and the viewable profile is negligible.

I personally agree with your dislike of pumps and wires. I would go with a closed loop, but that's just me. I don't claim any special expertise in the matter.

Dave.M
 
I think you should reconsider closed loops especially with the new Ecotech Vectra Pumps. My tank is 8x3x2 and I have 2 separate closed loop systems on my tank. this gives me a total of 8 outlets inside the tank and I just switched to the Vectra's for better control over the flow.
 
Wave makers have been around long enough for the idea that a modern aquarium will incur damage to have passed into myth. BTW it is impossible to create a natural frequency wave in a home aquarium. Dimensions are simply too small so the waves are always too fast.
 
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