220 Setup

Thanks again for all of the pump and plumbing comments. This is going to be one of those situations where an experiment is in order. Can't really return the pumps, so I'm going to install one and give it a whirl (with a nice big 1 1/2" ball valve on it to crank it back). I'm mid-way through doing this and I'll post pics soon. I'm also thinking that I might use this single pump for most of the sump flow and for most of the tank flow as well... More on this in a second...

I've got my 120 gallon sump set up on a 2X6 frame. The sump has a 2" bulkhead and I'm running it through 2 90 degrees into the pump, reducing it to 1-1/2" along the way. I don't like the idea of 90's in the path, but without them, I'd have about 4 feet of plumbing and pump sticking out! There's a 2" union right after the bulkhead, then the reduction and turns. I think the 120 is leaking, which concerns me, but I won't know until I fill it... *sigh Freshwater test coming up!

I figured out my pump electrical issues (and gave myself a relatively serious burn and fried a nice swath of hair off my leg when the first plug exploded), and I now know what BBQ Human smells like.

So, now my question is this. I've got a single 1 1/2" return back to the tank from the basement. It will have more than enough flow, and I will probably have to crank it down significantly due to having only ONE 1 1/2" drain. (Another experiment to see how that all works!) I am going to do something like what Gary M. did. I am splitting the return into two pipes that run the 84"length of my tank on either side.

I've been thinking that maybe there is a clever way to have multiple outputs on these two pipes that cause the correct amount and type of flow. I've been told that if you aim things right, you can cause a significantly random type of flow that would be adequate to avoid additional pumps and powerheads in the system. I'd like to get there.

Any ideas how this might be accomplished? I don't mind dropping some pipes down from the main pipes in the corners to have flow deeper in the water column. I was thinking that opposing smaller jets installed in two places going down the tank would be good, with larger upper (at the top where the pipes are) and lower (on pipes running down into the tank in the corners) to push the water current towards the drain would work.

Sorry for the excessive typing. I'll see if I can draw some pictures.
 
I'm a bit confused by the proposed return plumbing. I do know that Gary employs penductors to increase flow rate AND to help "pull" water up towards the penductors. This helps to create a Gyre. Gyres flow is quite impressive. It gets the whole body of water moving in one direction, kind of like a bunch of kids swimming in the same direction in a circular pool. It avoids needing excessive ancillary, in tank, powerheads (though IMO does not eliminate the need for them. You'll likely get some dead spots due to aquascape.)

Another concern is, just one overflow. Any emergency line in place should you get a clog?

Just spitballin' here. I'm so paranoid about overflow and spills, I like to have lots of eyes on my set up to find potential pitfalls.
 
Thanks Capt.

I agree with the danger of just one drain, but I plan to size the amount of water in the sump to the amount of excess the tank can take, with some room to spare. I'm also considering an actual overflow box, instead of just the end of a pipe sticking up with screen around it. I can't see any other way to skim the surface and have the drain rate that I need. Going to cover that box with screen and block the light over the box as well, so unless some critter cuts the screen and drops in the pipe, I should be ok.

My greater concern is running the pump dry. I'm going to have to install some sort of float system in the sump to make sure the pump turns off if there's a block in the drain. I might put one in the tank as well to shut off the pump if the overflow fills.

Also worrieda about the return siphoning back into the tank, but I think a couple of small holes in the elbows inside the tank should preven that... (Famous last words)

If power goes out or something happens, the system has to reach an equalibrium that doesn't include a flood. That's how I did it the first time when I had a large fish only tank, and it worked out well.

Luckly I'm on a concrete slab in a sunken room and the basement is a floating slab.

Going to search "Gyre" a bit to see if there is more information. This sounds like what I want to do.
 
one thing sets off a red flag in my mind:

one thing sets off a red flag in my mind:

one drain.

IMO/IME it's a very good idea to have TWO drains. (Ask RandyO)
Design the 2 drains so either one can handle total tank turnover on it's own

-OR-

place some type of sensor in the sump that will turn off the main pump if the water level gets too low. Live and learn. Better to learn from the mistakes of others (meaning ME!) than on your own ;)
 
Back
Top