295-gallon Peninsular ZEOVit SPS with Solaris I Series

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12599347#post12599347 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by yifan917
Hey Ed nice set up! I am really glad that your tank didn't get damaged by the terrible earthquake..... The earthquake was so strong that we could feel it in Taiwan!

Thanks yifan917 - Taiwan is actually very close to Fuzhou..... ;) We felt it too but not as bad as other province, I guess :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12599738#post12599738 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Chrisrush
Ed,
I have the profilux and I have a few comments on it. You have to play around with the tunze settings to get a good wave out of them. There is a post in the GHL forum if you need more assistance.

For the tunze streams, they do not need to be plugged into the powerbar, they can be plugged into any outlet. Same thing for the wavebox.

Also, you may want to check and see if those probes and float switch can be submerged, I don't believe that they should be 100% of the time.

Thanks Chrisrush - yeah, I'm aware that u can plug the Tunze direct into any outlet but want to be able to programmed it to 'off' during maintenance.

Check the manual and the probes can be submerge, except for the pH probe, which is why it's slightly above the rest.... :D

Was thinking of hooking one of the digital powerbar (where my Tunzes are hook on) to UPS support... let's see how it goes..

Have check out the Profilux forum and have yet to see much comments on Tunze setting so I'm still playing with different setting.... :(
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12599799#post12599799 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ginzo
I agree with Chrisrush previous comment, I also have a Profilux and I would recommend not connecting the Tunzes or Wavebox to the Profilux powerbars (they only need to be connected to the L-ports). The reason being, is that if for some reason your Profilux goes down then, you have no more flow in your tank (I have experienced this once). If they are connected to an independent outlet, you won't have this problem. Also, give you more free sockets on your Profilux powerbars :)

I have my Tunzes (2 x 6101) setup the following way:

1-10v interface: setup to min 3v to max 8v
current: min 30% to max 100% and 50% downgrade during the night period.

Also, have them setup on the food timer for 210s.

Btw, love your tank ! Don't know who did your plumbing, but he did a heck of a job ! I did my Sch80 plumbing all by myself, and it's no way as clean as yours.

Thanks Ginzo - reason I hook on to the Powerbar is the ability to switch them pumps off when I press the maintenances button.... :) However might reconsider since there seem to be much concern in this area from experience users...

I will try out your setting and see if it works for my tank.

Thanks for your kind comments on the tank.... myself and one of my staff did the plumbing - slow job as this is the 1st plumbing work for me but have a diagram pre drawn in advance so that helps a lot. :D Took me a whole week to complete... :p
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12600298#post12600298 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tbone28
Ed, try shooting Creetin a PM. IIRC, he runs a Profilux and Tunzes. I saw a vid of the wave on his tank :rollface:

Thanks T.... will try to find his PM....

Did a search and no luck finding his username...is Creetin his user name??
 
LABELS

LABELS

OK, all the waiting is making me restless so got to keep myself busy so last night, after work I I (“I” meaning got my secretary to make them and laminated them and then cut it out in size and pasted double sided tape behind so all I do is simply stick them) made labels for my powerbox and digital powerbar…

PowerboxLabel01.jpg


PowerboxLabel02.jpg


As you can see, I have plenty of spare plug points in my powerbox for any additional equipments, etc, including 2 spare in my Digital GHL Powerbar. Who knows….more pumps??? Maybe a couple of the new Tunze?? Dosing pumps?? :D :smokin: :rollface:
 
MORNING SURPRISE

MORNING SURPRISE

This morning my door bell ring and a friend pick this up for me…..

PlateCoral.jpg


However, as my current tank is packed to the rim, I have to temporary place in my friend’s tank until my new tank is ready for corals :eek1:

This motivate me to move faster so did will do another water test later and post results here

Found out what is the meaning of ‘insert the null plug’

so I recalibrate my Redox probe and in the 220mv solution, it now reads 224mv….maybe it’s because I didn’t soak it in RO water as I took it out from the sump and wipe dry and calibrate or due to the temperature difference as my tank is at 27.4 degree C…

Well, guess I can live with that… :D

For those who is interested, this is the ‘null plug’. Its actually a BNC connector plug….silly me :o :spin2:

NullPlug02.jpg

NullPlug01.jpg
 
Con't

Con't

Base on some advise from experience reefers, I also removed the intake pipe from my Ehiem pump and cover with the plastic plate that comes with it to avoid unnecessary ‘foreign’ objects to flow into the pump….

EhiemCover.jpg


:dance: :dance: :dance:
 
WATER PARAMETER

WATER PARAMETER

So, tested my NH3 is still nil, and my NO2 has now drop to 0.1… so look like I’m getting there… :bounce2:

Also tested the following using Salifert Test kits:
➢ NO3 - 2
➢ Ca â€"œ 370
➢ Mg â€"œ 1350
➢ dKH â€"œ 8.3 (old type test kit)
➢ dKH â€"œ 8.6 (new with reference solution)
➢ PO4 â€"œ 0.5

Readings from API test kits:
➢ dKH â€"œ 8

D-D High Sensitivity Phosphate Test Kit
➢ PO4 â€"œ off the charts using this test kit… need to reduce phosphate in my tank before using this test kit. Will stick to Salifert PO4 test kit until my PO4 tested lowest on the Salifert chart

Korallen Zucht Potassium Test Kit
➢ Potassium â€"œ 350

The ultimate test for the eyes I have ever gone through …. Anyway, I think â€"œits between 330 â€"œ 370 as when I slide it to 330 the color is completely invisible and when I slide it toward 370, I can see a little of the color so 350 seem about right.

Picture below…..comment? All pictures taken without flash

K test result at 350:
KTest-350.jpg


K test result at 370:
KTest-370.jpg


Top view:
KTestA-370.jpg


Guys, any comments on which test kits are more accurate for dKH?? All 3 seem pretty close â€"œ a different of a drop or two…. At this point in time, I’m leaning towards the API reading as a guideline but too bad API test kit shows in round no only!!

Oh yeah, Salinity is spot-on at 1.026 with tank temperature holding between 27.2 â€"œ 27.4 degree C and my pH is at 8.12 at the time of this test.

So far my lights are back on as per the lunar schedule and I will monitor closely for GHA especially with my PO4 so high off the charts.
 
Hey Ed. I do not trust salifert product anymore and instead of worrying if I got a bad batch, I switched to elos. I know that the elos does not measure close enough for my zeofriends, they mostly use lamotte's.
 
I swear by API but when I've used Salifert they generally had the same readings. I have heard they have some bad batches but personally, I've never had a problem with this.
 
Thanks guys...yeah, I hear lamotte is the best for dKH test but can't get it here in China so that options is out.

In the past I have always used Salifert and I've been lucky. I know there are many people out there recently with bad experiences and that's why I got API test kit this time as a reference check. Problem with API is the result is a rounded up number - 7 /8/9 etc so it's hard to judge how accurate it is?? :rolleye1:

Bottom line I think most important is to keep it consistent and as close to NSW as possible so my target is to get API results showing me 7 or Salifert showing me between 6.5 - 7.5 I should be OK :D

I have never used elos test kits...how're they?? I can get those in China but only for Mg and Ca test kits...somehow they don't bring in the rest - maybe less demand??

The other test kits by Salifert seem quite consistent...
 
could always good for a photometer instead... really up your testing game. Jnarowe mentioned that a new one is coming out from Hanna that might have potential.

Could certainly test more parameters that way. Problem is that some of the ranges might not be high or low enough but you would have to give it a look see.
 
THIS IS HOW I SPEND MY WEEKEND

THIS IS HOW I SPEND MY WEEKEND

CALCIUM REACTOR HOOK
25 May, 2008 (Sunday)

Now that my controller is in place and everything seems to be running smoothly, I hook up my Calcium Reactor today. This is the 1st time I’m using a Calcium Reactor as in the past I’m using Balling Lite method for all my Ca/ Mg and Kh needs so I’m a bit nervous… :hmm2:

Here goes….
So first, I rinsed the Rowalith C+ with RO water thoroughly to remove any fine dust and particles and now I think it’s good to go…

I then removed the strainer plate and sponge and fit the PVC cap over the central feed pipe to prevent media from entering the pipe.

PCVCapovercentralfeedpipe.jpg

PVCCap.jpg


Then I fill in the media into the CR chamber up to the fill line.

RowaCinCR.jpg

RowaCFillLine.jpg
 
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