375 gal peninsula build up pictures

Rogger, if I am understanding you have a pipe that has any oveflow that may occur flow outside the house, like an emergency drain pipe? sounds like a good idea
 
Jess, in the picture below, the pvc pipe on the right is the drain, it is connected to the sump with a bulkhead and has a funnel like pvc fitting, that funnel will a little above the sumps water level, any discrepancies the water will overflow there and get dumped outside.


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Rogger,
what if you have an outage... in an outage the water level will normally rise in the sump up to a certain level and then once the power comes back on it will all go back to normal operations; but if you have this set up won't that excess water from the tank end up just draining away and then your levels will be off once the power does come back on? Or have you taken that into consideration already?
 
Julio, thats a great point....because once the excess saltwater drains out, won't it be replaced by r/o water from the automatic topoff right? Thus diluting <----- (misspelled?) the salt level?
 
yes, that is big drawback on a system like this, I still have to make the measurements and calculations on how much water will actually exit the system in case of power outage, hopefully the volume is not huge and also what ever amount it is will have minimum impact on the salinity in a tank this size once it gets replaced by the ATO.

Two possible solutions;

Program the computer to turn on a dosing pump or lift pump for a set amount of time every-time it looses power for over 5 min, this pump will be pumping from a small container (1 or 2 qt) a concentrated brine slurry. It should be fairly easy to determine how much of this brine to pump, based on the loss of water. The ATO and the brine will compensate each other.

The other possible solution will be to place an actuator valve on the drain line that is normally close and will only open when powered, this will shut the drain in case of power outage. this will work fine as long as the sump can contain the volume of water that will be displace from the main tank.
 
May be a stupid question but why not just raise the overflow to the point that the water is at when the power goes out or just a hair above it? This assumes that the sump can handle the transient water volume.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11095749#post11095749 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lpsluver
May be a stupid question but why not just raise the overflow to the point that the water is at when the power goes out or just a hair above it? This assumes that the sump can handle the transient water volume.

Yeah, this is just an adjustment, right? When the return is off, the water rises to a certain point in the sump. Set the drain pipe at that level to avoid disaster. In normal operation, it won't do anything (except maybe let rodents into the house) :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11095749#post11095749 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lpsluver
May be a stupid question but why not just raise the overflow to the point that the water is at when the power goes out or just a hair above it? This assumes that the sump can handle the transient water volume.

You can, but then it will be defeating the second purpose of this drain which is automatic water changes.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11095784#post11095784 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pedromatic
Yeah, this is just an adjustment, right? When the return is off, the water rises to a certain point in the sump. Set the drain pipe at that level to avoid disaster. In normal operation, it won't do anything (except maybe let rodents into the house) :)

Hopefully not, both skimmers collection cup drains are connected to this pipe, and there is a one way valve on the line to prevent back flow an any life forms that will dare to venture into this smelly salty scummy pipe :D
 
no it wouldn't because if you started adding water and then one you add say 50 gallons it should start to flow over, but then just turn the pump off for 5 min and 50 gallons of water would flow right outside therefor you would have changed 50 gallons. aka you would set the level of the drain to the height of the water when the return was turned off. the sump will probably be almost full. hopefull not overflow. then set the drain to that height. water change time...add 50 gallons. so you would have 375 + sump volume + plus 50 of water change. and then turn off and 50 gallons would drain out the hole. I'm thinking about setting something up like that, but don't know if the parents would let me drill a hole in the wall.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11084113#post11084113 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rogger Castells
I am going to be using the regular sand, the same one you have in your 75, you are welcome to take some, I will let you know when it is available.

what do you mean "regular sand," the stuff at home depot?
 
Originally posted by lpsluver

I got a stupid question too, Im guessing this is pretty hard, but couldnt there be 2 overflows built into the tank. One for the Auto H2O changes, then one built higher like suggestion for power outages, to drain to the outside of the house. Just think out loud.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11099021#post11099021 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bishoptaner
what do you mean "regular sand," the stuff at home depot?

No, I meant the Aragonite sand, it is sold bulk in certain stores, Ecoreef has it in stock
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11099175#post11099175 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Bernie21
I got a stupid question too, Im guessing this is pretty hard, but couldnt there be 2 overflows built into the tank. One for the Auto H2O changes, then one built higher like suggestion for power outages, to drain to the outside of the house. Just think out loud.

Actually that is a great idea and yes, it would work. I will look into possibly adapting a second drain....Thanks
 
Rogger,just wanted to say congrats on getting a dream set-up.Also about the overflow drain,you could add a tee in place of the 90 bend.Then add a ball valve to the lower level drain(this is the one that would be used for water changes).This valve is kept in the closed position,except when changing water.Now after the tee you run another 90 bend that goes up & sits just higher than your max sump water level-with power out(if it can handle the volume).This way you still only have the single drain,but it can perform both tasks.HTH & best of luck with the build,Darcy
 
Great advise, this is an awesome forum before I placed a comment two or three ideas popped up, one being what I had in mind.
Rogger I can't wait to drop by to check out the progress.
 
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