600gal (96x48x30)
- Thread starter asnatlas
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asnatlas
New member
I was wondering if it would work... I was waiting to see if anyone said anything, and there you go busting my bubble... I was thinking about making a new hole in the overflow to feed then skimmer but I don't know if I could cut a new hole the tank... After all of the stuff that has happened, I can just see me trying to make a new hole in the tank...
tgunn
Active member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6458924#post6458924 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asnatlas
This pic is of the 2" sched 80 BH that I have yet to install on the 150gal Rubbermaid tub that I will be using for the sump as the return for the Seq Dart... I have attached a strainer but after looking at it questioned if it may restrict the flow too much or if it would be OK ??
I used to use a Dart on my closed loop... I would personally Tee off the bulkhead and use two strainers or make a larger one out of the gutter guard. I found that the suction from a single strainer was sufficiently strong that things could get stuck to it; not sure if this will be an issue in the sump though.
You could also pick up some craft screen from Michael's or Walmart; I made a closed loop intake screen out of this material; it was $0.70 per sheet or something ridiculously cheap like that:
Tyler
cward
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6468634#post6468634 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by asnatlas
Sorry, I tried it on my tank and it did not work. After thinking about, I realized that the water is following the path of least resistance. I had a 3rd drain in my overflow so it worked out feeding the skimmer.
asnatlas
New member
Thanks for the info tgunn, I have read before that the suction created with those strainers installed are a good amount... I am not too worried about it since it's in the sump but I think just in case I will make a "box" out of egg create to go around the strainer that will be attacted to the inlet for the Seq Dart
Here is a pic from Travis's Site...
asnatlas
New member
I forgot to mention that I did pick up a 2ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ true union ball valve that I would be installing on the 2ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ drain pipe after the 1ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ feed to the skimmer... Could I just adjust that 2ââ"šÂ¬Ã‚ ball valve until I have enough flow to the skimmer and then anything else would just drain out into the ref ??
Travis
10 and over club
You can get enough water to the skimmer by using a drain that also drains to the sump. But you need to have a ball valve on the drain section that goes to the sump to cause enough pressure in the pipe that the water will go out the skimmer line. This is a "no-no" if it is the only drain you have. The smallest restriction in the drain line and you would have an overflowing tank.
How many drains does your tank have?
How many drains does your tank have?
asnatlas
New member
I only have the one 2"... I was going to go with two 2" when I originally planned the ext overflow, but after switching the overflow internally and adding the Tunze sections I dropped it down to one as I figured one 2" drain would be enough and since the overflow was now going to be internal I wanted it as small as possible...
asnatlas
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6469345#post6469345 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mwood
Have you seen these strainers?
Yes I have, they are from aquaticeco.com... I know that dgasmd recommended them for other RC members in the past... If I was going to have something inside the display tank I would use those, but I figured I could use the strainer(s) I have now since I am not worry about sucking any live stock against them...
asnatlas
New member
I only have the one 2"drain on the tank
Looks like I might have to cut another new hole in the tank to install a sched 80 BH so that I can have a feed like for the skimmer... If I have the 2" drain and install a new 1" to feed the skimmer I will have a problem with skimming ?? I will get quite a bit more water going through the 2" vs the 1"...
melev
Well-known member
You sure about that? I think I've come up with a workable solution. You've not written that check quite yet, as far as I know.
Okay, here's my <i>solution</i>...
You need a flatbed truck or trailer. If you can't find one, Uhaul rents trucks for $20 a day. A bargain.
You'll need a few 2x4s or 4x4s. I would place these on the trailer. That way when you and your group of hobbyists put the tank down, no fingers get crushed due to those beams. Strap it in place. Free.
You'll need a skid / sled to slide the tank down the stairs. I would glue/screw 2x4s under the bottom of a sheet of plywood (although MDF is smoother and would fly down those stairs. :lol: ) A long piece of rope could be secured to the front of the sled via eye bolts screwed into a 2x4 or 2x6 front rail. This board would keep the tank from sliding forward off the sled, and the eyebolts would allow you to thread the rope through them.
Your group lowers the tank onto the sled, and it is angled down the stairs with everyone focusing on the tank and the rope. 4 people could hold the rope easily, and wearing gloves should have no problem. As people take their hands off the tank, they could assist with the holding of the rope. Hand over hand they feed out more and more rope and the sled goes down the steps.
Near the bottom of the steps, I would have a couple of 2x6s going from the second step to the floor of the basement. This will allow the tank and sled to slide forward off the steps but not be flush with the floor.
Now all workers can cluster around the tank, and pick it up to put it on the stand.
Total cost? $200: $75 for wood, eyebolts and rope & $125 for beer and pizza for the conquering heros!
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