A Capital Dream - 400g SPS build

As you can see, the build is back on track. The water has been running for a little more than 24 hours.

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I had disconnected some of the plumbing to get pictures of the corners for the builder. I reconnected the plumbing today. I also picked up a new set of RODI filters and DI resin and fully refreshed my RODI. The old ones were starting to look a little brown. I have an in-line TDS monitor that measures TDS of the water entering the RODI and the water exiting RO/DI. Our city water has a TDS of 50 and my RODI water had a reading of 4. The TDS is back to 0 with the new filters. Now I just have to wait until the tank is full.
 
Not to be all doom and gloom but perhaps you should run the tank with all pumps going full blast for a week before putting any lifeforms back in. Just to be sure.

Dave.M
 
Not to be all doom and gloom but perhaps you should run the tank with all pumps going full blast for a week before putting any lifeforms back in. Just to be sure.

Dave.M
No doom and gloom at all with your advice. I will remain cautious for the first couple weeks in case I have to mop up (positively optomistic this will not happen). I am fortunate that the tank only had sand and saltwater when it cracked. All my livestock is in the 220g or 75g so they are all good.

I am going to do exactly as you suggest. After the tank is full, I will be slowly bringing it online with the existing system (150g of common sump) to equalize the water in all tanks. I suspect that the sudden addition of 400g of fresh saltwater into the existing water may upset the balance and cause STN or RTN of my SPS. I also need the liverock in the 220g for the 400g. Once everything is equalized, I will then scape and move everything to the 400.
 
I have had the pyramid butterflies for a week now. I gave them two API General Cure treatments so far. However, I was observing them last night and it appears that they have ich. I waited until this morning to do a water change and then add CP (NLS Ich Shield). I did not want to do it last night in case they had an adverse reaction. As of now, after 5 hrs, they are active and eating well. I will do another two API treatment cycles starting on Monday.
 
The tank finished filling late Saturday evening. I added the salt while it was filling.

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I had removed the sand to repair the tank. I dumped it into a 44g Brute can. I put it back in while the tank was filling and it created some dust in the water column. I believe tossing it into the can released the dust.

I started integrating the tank into the existing system yesterday afternoon. I really dialed down the return flow so it could not have been more than 50g an hour. I let this run until late last night. Today, I turned the return back on with a greater flow. The dust is now through all the tanks: the 220, the 75 and the 400. Past experience tells me that the dust settles significantly faster in a cycled tank than a fresh rock free tank. None of the corals or fish have been affected, so far.

I built two temporary shelves out of eggcrate. The one you see in the picture above is 24" x 24" x 15"h (helps give perspective on tank size). I also built a 15" x 24" x 15"h for the 220g.

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I need the rock from the 220g, plus the shelf rock I bought, to create the aquascape in the 400. This does create a little logistical gymnastics, because of the existing corals. The plan is to move about half of the rock into the 400 and use the temporary shelf to hold half the corals. I will build half of the aquascape then move the shelved corals into the new tank. I also will have to move the MH from the 220 to the 400 when I move the corals. I hope to have a two stage process. Half the rock and coral in hte first phase, then the rest in the second phase.

The 400 will be aquascaped with two islands. I really want to take advantage of the 36" front to back by creating a valley between two structures. This should provide a sense of depth that I just cannot get in the 24"w tank I have now. I will make the valley a little diagonal from front to back to obtain a longer channel.

Something like:

Islands_zpsobel3wv8.jpg~original


Obviously, things can change as I start building the scape, but this gives you a general idea of what I have in mind.
 
Progress is good :)
Thanks Jerry. It feels good to be moving forward again. I am gettong the excitemebt back. I lost some of it waiting for the repair.

Sue and I were talking today about power outages. We may be picking up a generator this week. We got our annual meat order this week (fills a large upright freezer) plus another full upright.

Canadian Tire has a 6500w on sale so I will go look at it tomorrow or Wed. We are at the point that an extended power outage could cause significant losses.
 
Really glad you got the bottom fixed and it is holding water. Nice job on everything so far.

I am cooking half my rock right now and will be re-scaping when I do and bleach the second half. I wanted to come up with different ideas for scaping and came across this three part article which I plan on trying to implement. Have a look, maybe you can come up with some ideas. The two islands is nice design with a channel between. I am liking everything you are doing.

https://reefs.com/2011-3/aesthetics-of-aquascaping-part-i/
https://reefs.com/2011-4/aesthetics-of-aquascaping-part-ii/
https://reefs.com/forum/reefs-magazine/119589-aesthetics-aquascaping-iii.html
 
Thanks perc. The links provide interesting ideas. I have the "wall" scape in my 220 and I don't really like it. I find scaping the most challenging aspect of the reef.
 
Today, the DT is not looking as good as it used to (and it's not just the lack of glass cleaning)

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It may not be pretty, but it is effective. I moved some of the live rock that will allow me to start the 400g aquascape. Here is the live rock, just crying to get back into use. :)

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Here is a closer look at some of this rock. You really don't get a size perspective, but the largest rock is about 25 lbs.

Live_Rock_2_zpscvkz2uqk.jpg~original


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Ignore the tape. This marks the 5-3 split. e.g. Using a design principal of dividing the whole into 5/8 and 3/8, the tape is placed to show where 60" is to the left and 36" is to the right. The channel will start around this mark.

Live_Rock_4_zpsrfp6ofjf.jpg~original


I will be starting the aquascape process tomorrow by creating the right side structure. (already have the MH set up there, so I can move corals as soon as I am done.)
 
Rockworm couldn't agree with you more. Scaping is such a mission. Looks like your on the right track though. How many pounds in total do you have in your system?


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Rockworm couldn't agree with you more. Scaping is such a mission. Looks like your on the right track though. How many pounds in total do you have in your system?


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I have at least 350 lbs cured (220g + 75g) plus another 250 dry shelf rock. I expect to have around 500 lbs in the 400. I also have two of the Marine Pure 8 x 8 x 4 and 4 litres of Matrix.
 
I was looking into the marine pure as well. Is that replaced or a permanent filtration medium? I know lots of mechanical filtration ends up being nitrate sinks. Can't wait to see the finished product btw


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I was looking into the marine pure as well. Is that replaced or a permanent filtration medium? I know lots of mechanical filtration ends up being nitrate sinks. Can't wait to see the finished product btw


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I have added a marine pure block in my 120 a few weeks ago to get it ready for use when I transfer everything over to a 300DD. My transition will be very similar to what is posted in this thread so I'm following along eagerly. The marine pure blocks are supposed to help remove nitrates provided they are placed in an area of low flow. They basically act as live rock but with a much higher surface area. My hope is that I can have less live rock in the sump and use 1 or 2 of the blocks instead. I should have 300-400# of liverock in the display so I'm not worried that I'll have too little... but the extra bio-filtration will certainly help. I may get a second one but I'm not sure it's necessary just yet.
 
The benefit of the live rock is not only as a host for bacteria but as a refugium for all manner of small worms and invertebrates that live off bacteria and detritus and feed the tank. I doubt the Marine Pure Block will do any of that for you.

Dave.M
 
I think I am a little overdue for an update. :) All the livestock is now in the 400g. Here is how I got there. I noted a few posts back that I started the transfer by removing the rock from the left side of the 220 to the 400. I used an egg crate rack to hold some of the coral.

The next step was to lay out the shelf rock to see what I had to work with.

Shelf_1_zps0qrdlisz.jpg~original


There is approximately 25 sq ft of rock laid out with the largest at the top and smallest at the bottom.

These were the largest shelves and a few of them I consider show pieces and want them to stand out above the rest.

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The top right rock is the largest and measures in at 23" x 24" with a weight of 58 lbs. The one below it measures 26" x 14" but weighs in at only 14 lb because it is so porous.

I built the right side structure first. I knew before I started that the large rock on the top left above would be the feature rock at the top of the hill. I ended up with the following:

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I then moved the large corals that were on the egg crate in the 200 to this structure. Please note that there are some corals in this photo that were moved in the next phase. I did not photo every step, but tried to provide sufficient pictures to illustrate the process I used. The MH lamp was already installed there, so they would have adequate light through the next stages.
 
The next step was to move the rocks from the middle section of the 220 to the 400. There was practically no shelf rock in the 220, so the live rock was to be used as the pillars for all the shelf rock. I did not want to risk losing too much of the bacteria necessary for the nitrification process, so I placed it directly into the 400 and worked with it in there. The whole aquascape process would have been much easier if I had taken all the live rock and laid it out to pick and choose. Instead I had to trial and error most of the aquascape until I got it to a point that I was happy.

Here is the 220 after the second batch of rocks was moved from the centre of the tank:

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Yes, the tank needed serious cleaning IF it was to remain the DT. But it was not, so I didn't bother. The fish were very confused now that 2/3 of their house had disappeared. I was a little worried about aggression issues with the added stress, but they actually behaved very well.

The corals from that 2/3 were scattered between the 220 and the 400. The 440 did not have enough shelf space for them all, and I could not use the sand bed in the 400 because I needed that as work space. I still had all 3 MHs over the 220g, so I used the egg crate and the sand for corals.

I then built the left side structure:

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First, those 4 small rocks at the very top and the pizza slice in the centre lower 3rd did not stay. The top shelf is the 23 x 24 piece that I felt is one of the nicest rocks I have and deserved the king's seat. The 26 x 14 was place to the right centre of the picture.

After the structure was complete, I moved most of the remaining corals from the corals from the 220. I left some there because I again did not have enough space for all of them yet.

Left_structure_zpsvx9ndepu.jpg~original


The only thing I am not fully happy with is the downward sloping rock in the centre. This one was difficult to place because of it's shape, but it will be less noticeable down the road as corals grow out to hide it. After this shelf was created, I moved on of the MH from the 220g to the 400. I had corals on both ends of the 400, but only one MH on the right. I put the MH in the second position of the planned 4 because it is harder to reach than the first position MH. This is why the light is more intense on the left side of the picture.

The MH move was easier than I had hoped. I am going from a Lumenbright mini to a Lumenbright large. Fortunately, the mogul socket assembly was identical for both pendants. I merely removed the socket assembly and transferred it with the ballast attached to the large pendant. I was worried that the socket lengths would be different to allow proper alignment to the centre of the pendant. If that was the case, I would have to rewire the ballast to the new pendant. Fortunately, that was not necessary.
 
I took a break from the transfer to pick up an important new piece of equipment for the aquarium. A heavy duty generator.

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At 6500 running watts, I will be able to run the aquarium heaters, T5 lights, return pump and powerheads. In addition, I can run the motor on the natural gas furnace, the freezers, and the TV. I love overkill. :bounce3: The generator was 1/3 off the regular price. I mentioned earlier that my wife and I were considering a generator and we decided to do it at that price.
 
You will recall that my intent was to build a channel to help provide the sense of depth. This did not work as envisioned because I had more rock than I had free space. There was one last show rock that I wanted to display and it ended up as the centre piece (literally) that joined the two ends.

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I also had extra rock from the 220 so it currently sits in the back of the centre section as well as other not so visible locations in the back.

Standing back a little, this is what the centre join section looks like:

Centre_2_zpsraytp8gz.jpg~original
 
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