A Great Way to ruin a perfect wall; My 400 Gallon Project

Nothing empirical. One too many storyies of a 1 degree swing causing massive bleaching events in the wild. I know that the ocean is much more temp stable than anything i will build.

I had temp problems on my last tank and dont want the stress on me or the animals if i can avoid it. Especially if it can be avoided by buying a 20k btu unit instead of a 10k.
 
Wayne - I'm using an 8000 BTU window unit to cool off the fish room of of my 280g reef. I keep it set at 78F all summer, and the tank ranges from 79 to 81F daily. In the winter, I can set it at 80F or leave it off entirely, as I can just crack open the door to the garage area to let in cool air during the day time, and close it for the night. That helps a lot on electricity. My A/C uses 800w when the compressor is running.

The fishroom is 7 x 7 x 8, and the tank uses 1220w of lighting.
 
Thanks Marc. That's exactly what I was looking for. I doubt I will have Texas sized thermal problems in Chicago. ;)
 
Menard; Box cleared;)

Thanks Floridabob! I would love to live in Southern Florida and try and outdoor tank!

Wecome aboard jnarowe! The effluent cup is just a fancy drip cup to allow me to measure my effluent. As you know, some calcium reactors have a built in slot for a pH probe, mine doesn't therefore this allows me to measure and change my effluent pH accordingly. I don't measure my effluent Ca or Alk; only the main display. I maintain the effluent pH at 6.3. I haven't used a controller to do this BTW; More timeconsuming, but possible with the right equipment. :p As far as releasing it into the refugium; I think in theory it is a GREAT idea, but the refugium isn't a closed system from your main tank. IMO, the CO2 affecting the pH occurs throughout the tank and refugium in series without any higher concentrations in one area. You may end up getting more macroalgae if the effluent drips into the refugium. I think that it may be a good attempt to have you skimmer diffuse the CO2. Never thought of that :rolleyes:.

waynemk. My main concern about using a chiller was the production of heat. I also didn't want to deal with more plumming and other feeder pumps. A neat idea, that may have actually influenced me a bit when I was setting up the room would be to buy a TV mounting rack or heavy industrial shelf and suspend the chiller up near the top of the ceiling. I had a fan intalled (two actually) with the intention of venting the room for excessive humidity, while the second was supposed to pull out the heat produced by the chiller. I RARELY use the fans, but it would be cool to have a chiller mouted about 6 inches from the ceiling near a vent. That would be a great way to keep the ambient heat controlled!

Back to the A/C. *Murphy's Law*, when I was out of town recently, the temperature got over 100 degrees, while my a/c vents into the garage. No one was around to vent the garage, so I assume the temperature in the garage got up to 130-140 degrees. The ambient temperature in the room climbed up to 90 degrees, while my tank temp climbed up to 86 degrees. My ballasts are the timer integrated blue wave ballasts and they need to be mechanically tripped to turn on or off. I discovered this as I attempted to hook up my aquacontroller. :mad2:

The A/C unit is GREAT! Overall, the only problem that I have had was the one above. It keeps the room very cool with 4 400 watt MH's. I keep it set at 71 degrees in the summer and 74 degrees in the winter. The other problem is that it runs constantly. Never gets the room cool enought. I'm not sure if that is because the A/C unit is too big? The dimensions of the room are 12 X 8. The bathroom would already have a fan installed!!! BONUS Adding both a chiller and an A/C would be great if you can find a way to control the ambient heat.

So where am I going from here? I am sick of adding things in piecemeal because it always seems that what ever I get now; it provides my wife with reasons to complain about me spending money on the tank. So I'm probably going to add the following;

2 more 6100 streams for propagation tank
3 nano streams for main display to place behind my rocks.
Lighting set up for Fragsystem (considering the LED's for energy conservation and heat)
Possible Lineal Light mover from sunlight supply
Ozone
Wavebox and Magnet
Spare Pump


Then I think I'm done.
:rollface:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7883326#post7883326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SERVO


Then I think I'm done.
:rollface:

BS! We all know that we're never done buying crap. Quit lying to yourself Ryan. :D
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7883326#post7883326 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by SERVO
Menard; Box cleared;)


. . . . So I'm probably going to add the following;

2 more 6100 streams for propagation tank
3 nano streams for main display to place behind my rocks.
Lighting set up for Fragsystem (considering the LED's for energy conservation and heat)
Possible Lineal Light mover from sunlight supply
Ozone
Wavebox and Magnet
Spare Pump


Then I think I'm done.
:rollface:

Ok, you have way more experience at this hobby (obsession) than I but I would be willing to wager BIG bucks that you will never be done! I've read your thread buddy, a couple of time in fact. You have a serious problem. You can accept it or get some help. Period.

Now, After that thrashing I have a favor to ask. ahem. I may have missed it but do you have a sketch of how you are going to set up your prop tank that you could post? AND why does everyone use the egg crate to set the props on? Doesn't stuff fall thru too easily?


EDIT: Ha! TCU beat me to it.
 
Last edited:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7688400#post7688400 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by melev
Ryan, my electricity bill this month was $460, which is the highest bill I've ever had in this house. Last month was $230. ugh.

My water bill ranges $55 (winter) - $105 (summer).

Considering the availability of the sun down there, you guys should take a serious look at solar. It could probably help midigate the costs. Not sure what the ROI would be though.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7883614#post7883614 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Cuby2k
You have a serious problem. You can accept it or get some help. Period.


My name is Ryan and I am a reefaholic. :eek1:

Well done in the sence that I won't need any equipment for at least a few years!:lol:

The installed effluent cup is posted a few pages back........

Here you go

P4090069.jpg


I got a few corals today! I got a really nice pink milli with peach tips as well as an Acropora kimbeensis frag and an unknown tricolor (looks like another Validia).
 
Very nice box. Did you make it yourself?

I can't use an open box if I am supplying the skimmer with effluent to blow off CO2 because there would be back pressure, but I probably could use something like that for supplying the refugium with the effluent. That would make it less complicated and easier to sample for sure.

Edit: I went back and saw that Trigger made it. That sump is totally trick! :D
 
Ryan, the room isn't big, but your ceiling is like 10' tall. You have to consider BTUs versus cubic feet of space that needs cooling.

I don't know if you saw my other post, but Frank is running 45 pint dehumidifiers in his store, and each one is pulling 750 watts of power! My a/c unit pulls 800w, so I'm not going to put a dehumidifier in after all. Just a good fan in the attic hooked up to a humidistat, I guess. Cost-wise, it will be a wash, but electricity consumption should be less. I need to ask Richard Durso how much power his fan is pulling, since he has a Kilowatt meter.

I tried the idea of the effluent cup in the refugium, but it turns out that isn't a good idea after all. You end up dumping alk and ca in substantial levels to that zone, which is normally lower flow. Instead, I have it in the bubble trap going to the prop section, and it works great.
 
yeah that was my initial concern is that I would have too high levels in the low flow fuge. It would be nice if the macro could get the CO2 first though.

What do you think about injecting it into the skimmer intake to blow off CO2? Maybe I could inject it into my return manifold?
 
If your tank suffers from low pH, then I'd look into some way of degassing the effluent. But if I recall correctly, your tank has normal pH levels.
 
My pH is fairly normal but does have swings from 8.0 to 8.3 throughout the day. This morning it is at 8.11 which I would consider on the high side, but I have been dosing baked baking soda the last 3 days to bring up the alk. Did a Salifert O2 test yesterday and it was about 6 on their scale. So I am a little concerned about adding CO2 to the display but I am not sure if that is really an issue.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7906748#post7906748 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kwl1763
Rumor is your putting in a sandbed. Spill the beans, why, what issues, etc.!


That headline must have been right after the rumor that Paris Hilton is marrying Bill O'Reily.:lol:

No beans to spill my friend. No sand is going into my tank! Don't need or want it. If I do anything for nitrates, I'd put a remote sandbed plumbed into the return from the frag system.:smokin:
 
Hum I think someone is already dong that :) Ok just curious. I'll get min up and going this month. When are you coming to check it out?
 
WOW, Thanks for letting me know I am not nuts! Plus all the info I just made my 24usd payment to RC after seeing it mention WWM. I SPENT 3 HOURS READING I COULDN'T STOP. I was going to setup an 180g but IT WASN'T BIG ENOUGH just found an used 400g Tank, I also have 46g and a 80g. I WILL BE ASKING A BUNCH OF QUESTIONS. The LFS in town is only OK. The NG Electrical Generator link was interesting but, did you price out Diesel ones? Anyways, I did install SOLAR PV but in CALI with a pool it just made sense, but I was told batteries would drop efficiency so want to have backup for this system. Again Thanks!
 
reefraider,

[welcome]

Keep up the reading, so you'll be able to handle that future upgrade. I have a 300 page thread for you to read when you're ready. :reading: :lol:
 
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