Acer's new build thread

Better pic.

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I'm not thirsty but the sump is!

After 2 or 4 days the RBTA went full blown bubble tip!!! Hasn't deflated since...so looking good. Thanks
 
ya me too.... took a trip up to Dave's= Custom Acrylics Thursday to finalize plans and get a time frame from him on when my overflow will be completed. Picked up a few 1.5 inch 90 degree "street" for the bulkheads out of the 40. Have decided to have no front baffle, only thee rear bubble trap baffles for the refugium. This way I am going to make the water from the 40 come into the top and to bottom of the 70 refugium. I am still trying to determine how to control the macro ( keep several of them in their allotted space). Still fixing the skimmer from the Fumble/drop. Starting to work on the mixing station - have free handed a design - but need to clean it up before I post it.
 
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Ok , suspended diffuser, next apply Weldon to outer rim and where diffuser will sit on the bottom plate , place skimmer body onbottom plate - make sure it is in correct position. Then , reach down neck of skimmer, release diffuser and place on bottom plate in proper position - before Weldon dries.
 
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Done, what do you think?
 
Ok baffles in the 75 refugium.

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Good weekend!

Looks like the skimmer will be fine..... just don't try to dribble it again.

How did the 75 go? And did you put any water in the 40 yet?


Kevin
 
Ya, no more fumbles!! it was a straight out total brain fart!!!

The 75 is pictured above - went OK- I am not super good at silicone -LOL. So its a bit messy, but I think It will work. Glad I had your clamps. I lifted the front baffle up to near the top of the tank - leaving room enough under it to place some type of barrier to hold sand in place ( would like 1.5 inches of sand in refugium) then some type of barrier to allow water under the first baffle- yet not allow any fish/macro algae under the baffle. Anybody have any ideas on that? I suppose I will have to have another glass piece about 5-6 inches tall in front of my first baffle ( more silicone- blahh) - then something between it and the first baffle to prevent anything except water from getting into the baffle chambers.
 
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I use egg crate in my sump. If I need smaller holes than that then I put needlepoint mesh on top of it.

Kevin
 
Ya- was thinking egg crate- but I think holes are too large= I don't want pieces of macro algae getting into my pump.


Trying to figure out what I should use on the threaded PVC fittings. Have used Teflon tape before - but now reading that Tape is NOT recommended. So , trying to find a non toxic thread sealant/coating that still allows the threads to be undone ( true unions in front and behind the external pump.

you mean this ?

https://www.consumercrafts.com/store/details/catalog/basics-plastic-canvas/33409
 
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Yep. That's the stuff. Walmart or Joanne fabrics should carry the different sizes.

Where did you see that Teflon tape is not recommended? What was the reasoning there? What did they recommend and why?

Anyway..... here's a link to food grade pipe dope.

PIPE DOPE

Maybe that's the answer. I've had Teflon tape on my systems for 15 years and probably not gonna change it without GOOD reason.

Kevin
 
Well, basically they stuff i have been seeing says the sealant works better, longer, and it is easier on the treads. So the threads dont wear and start leaking.

Yep, checked you link. That'll work. Now what r the chances that local stores have that?
 
OK. So if the only concern is sealing and not toxicity then I'm sticking with tape. I'm not buying the weakening threads theory. The biggest problem I've seen with threaded PVC is the mold seams that are left unfiled before assembly. If it's an in-tank joint I wouldn't worry about it. If it's an outside joint then gently file the lip off of the threads, apply whatever you are going to seal it with, and tighten it finger tight plus 1 to 2 full turns.

Which joints are threaded?

As for local stores....... I'd guess 0

Kevin
 
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